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question.

i have a 4 wire actuator that is not working right.took it apart and inside it was wet inside.so left it open for a week put it back together and it worked for about 5 minute then went back to not working/working somewhat.

other question.

how hard is it to solder the new stuff in.im into rc cars/trucks so i now how to solder pretty good.

lasty. so are there any different from the 3 wire to the 4 wire?


thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
question.

i have a 4 wire actuator that is not working right.took it apart and inside it was wet inside.so left it open for a week put it back together and it worked for about 5 minute then went back to not working/working somewhat.

other question.

how hard is it to solder the new stuff in.im into rc cars/trucks so i now how to solder pretty good.

lasty. so are there any different from the 3 wire to the 4 wire?


thanks for your help.
You said it was wet, was it water or oil? Water could have damaged some of the components, but I'm not sure if oil would have the same effects as water. If it was oil, did you spray down it with electronics cleaner???

Soldering the new parts in is the easy part. Getting the original parts off can be tricky. First, you need to remove as much of the solder as you can using solder wick or a solder removal tool if you have one. You have to be careful to not damage or lift any of the circuit traces when removing parts. The through hole parts (ones with leads that go through the board), like the relay, will be more difficult to remove since the solder joint goes all the way through the board.

The 3 and 4 wire's are mechanically the same as long the 4 wire housing looks like the 3 wire in this thread, but the 4 has a few more electrical components. The extra parts may part of the diff lock circuit.
 

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You said it was wet, was it water or oil? Water could have damaged some of the components, but I'm not sure if oil would have the same effects as water. If it was oil, did you spray down it with electronics cleaner???

Soldering the new parts in is the easy part. Getting the original parts off can be tricky. First, you need to remove as much of the solder as you can using solder wick or a solder removal tool if you have one. You have to be careful to not damage or lift any of the circuit traces when removing parts. The through hole parts (ones with leads that go through the board), like the relay, will be more difficult to remove since the solder joint goes all the way through the board.

The 3 and 4 wire's are mechanically the same as long the 4 wire housing looks like the 3 wire in this thread, but the 4 has a few more electrical components. The extra parts may part of the diff lock circuit.
it was water,not much just enough to cover stuff.....no i didnt clean it with anything just let it air dry for a week..was mostly on the black drive cover..........ive soldered and resoldered stuff to circuit boards before and it wasnt too hard. ive never use a soldering wick before what is that?


yes it looks just like the 3 wire, just has 4 wires


other question.

how do you know what switches are the right part and what relay is the right part?

thanks for your help
 

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Similar problem

I'll start off by saying its a '03 or '04 model. I was told a 400, but decals are missing. I got it from a trader. Its in good shape overall. Just a few things (tie rod, rear brake, carb, and this actuator).

I don't hear any sound coming from the actuator. The wheeler itself seems to be stuck in 2wd, best I can tell (w/o jacking it up and still haven't cleaned the carb, as it runs well for now until under load).

What I've done so far is I cleaned the 2wd/4wd switch (very well), made sure it and actuator had a good connection, checked fuses, and last I took the face plate off the actuator. There was water/rusty lookin stuff in there. I took WD40 and cleaned everything well. One thing I noticed is the motor didn't turn by hand (not sure if it should).

Does this sound like a bad actuator or possible something else?
Thanks in advance for any response.
 

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Actuator

I'll start off by saying its a '03 or '04 model. I was told a 400, but decals are missing. I got it from a trader. Its in good shape overall. Just a few things (tie rod, rear brake, carb, and this actuator).

I don't hear any sound coming from the actuator. The wheeler itself seems to be stuck in 2wd, best I can tell (w/o jacking it up and still haven't cleaned the carb, as it runs well for now until under load).

What I've done so far is I cleaned the 2wd/4wd switch (very well), made sure it and actuator had a good connection, checked fuses, and last I took the face plate off the actuator. There was water/rusty lookin stuff in there. I took WD40 and cleaned everything well. One thing I noticed is the motor didn't turn by hand (not sure if it should).

Does this sound like a bad actuator or possible something else?
Thanks in advance for any response.
Sounds like the servo motor is seized. You can either try and locate another servo motor online or just buy a new actuator.
 

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It's a 2004 the 2003 had a manual 4x4
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Probably wont have any luck finding a servo motor. Haven't been able to find many of the major parts in these actuators. The servo actually will unplug from the positive/negative terminals. They were made by Johnson Electric Motors #35671. Check the voltages going to the connector on the actuator while flipping the 4WD switch.

The actuator I sealed up for this thread finally quit on me. Servo was rusted too and the relay had a melt down. I think the corrosion in the connector contacts maybe caused some voltage fluctuations. I replaced it with a 4 wire actuator (pn: 0502-579), changed out the cable and connectors and insulated the 4th wire.
 

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Yeah I misplaced my voltage meter, or my uncle didn't return it. I'd like to check the volts. The servo motor did look pretty rough though. Next step I'll take is check the volts. If I'm getting volts to the motor... Does anyone have recommendations for a reasonable place to buy these type of parts? Also does anyone know the part number for the servo & the motherboard piece?

I've found a site Country Cat, they seem pretty legit. Just don't know the parts #.

Thanks for all the feedback!
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
Yeah I misplaced my voltage meter, or my uncle didn't return it. I'd like to check the volts. The servo motor did look pretty rough though. Next step I'll take is check the volts. If I'm getting volts to the motor... Does anyone have recommendations for a reasonable place to buy these type of parts? Also does anyone know the part number for the servo & the motherboard piece?

I've found a site Country Cat, they seem pretty legit. Just don't know the parts #.

Thanks for all the feedback!
Arctic Cat doesn't sell the individual parts for the actuator. They must make money off us, so you have buy the entire $200 actuator.

Found a couple on eBay,

$188 + free shipping from TX
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Cat-...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a37fe4708

$199+ free shipping and it's in Arkansas-
New Arctic Cat 4WD Actuator 0502 296 400 500 Brand New | eBay

If your wheeler is an 04 and your actuator has three wires- the part number for the actuator is in the title of this thread.

Another sign of an 04: Is the rear foot brake hydraulic, with the master cylinder in frame mounted in front of the right rear wheel? 04 was the first year for the hydraulic foot brake.
 

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Pulled the actuator on one of my bikes last night just to check it and WOW. I got lucky. When I pulled the cover the single plastic gear fell to the floor and the screw gear came about halfway out. It had apparently tried to split(but was still working) and the cover gasket was hanging out at the bottom. It wasn't even in the groove for the gasket! I'm pretty lucky it wasn't full of water/mud. Cleaned and dielectric greased terminals and gasket surface area and o-ring and reinstalled.
 

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I had one go out on another bike a couple months ago and it was all melted inside so I ordered a new one. Tried to open it and do a little preventative waterproofing and it was already siliconed from the factory. I still sprayed the outside of the case split with aerosol rubber very generously. Seems to be holding fine.
 

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They are easy to take off, easy to clean and seal, but expensive to replace!
 

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if everything is working correctly, does the actuator spin the motor both ways for engage and disengage or only one way?
 

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Should be turning 2 different directions for in/out.
 

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Should be turning 2 different directions for in/out.

Thanks

So mine only moves in. nothing happens when you switch the other way. It is bone dry and clean on the inside. any thoughts?

took it off when I put new seals in. diff had water but actuator case was like brand new inside.
 
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