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Because you have electric diff lock. The part where you see the oil is where ther should be an oring
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Your actuator (pn: 0502-585) is the newer style that has two actuators. The one with the metal pin activates the differential LOCK and the plastic tube on the backside that has the o-ring, controls the 2WD-4WD selection.

Did you check your fuses???
 

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I ended up giving up on repairing the actuator, could not get all of the glue off to open it. Ended up buying a new one, it also has the lid glued on. Got it installed and all is good now, thanks for your help.
 

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Ill take the old one off your hands if you have no use for it.
 

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I finally got around to working on mine. I removed the cover and found that the motor is not working on mine. I can hear what I assume to be the relay clicking, so I'm thinking everything is good before the motor. Problem is I can't find the motor anywhere online yet. Gonna keep looking.
 

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15. I applied RTV to the groove on the back side where the two halves of the cover come together (Fig. 14). Make sure to get a little extra around the wires (Fig. 15). Then I smoothed the bead and pushed the RTV into the hard to reach corners with my finger and the soapy water, also check the actuator O-ring (Part # 0423-498 which was replaced by 0423-892 and measures 5/16" x 7/16" x 1/16", should be able to find replacements at hardware or parts store for a fraction of dealer price) to make sure it’s not cracked or damaged (Fig. 15a). Flip the actuator and RTV the screw heads too (Fig. 16). Let the RTV cure for 24 hours. If you ever need to remove the RTV, just pour some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol 91%) on it and work it under the edge of the RTV. It should come off fairly easily once the alcohol gets under the RTV.


16. Reconnect the actuator wire back to the main harness. Turn the key on and flip the switch to 4WD. It’ll make it easier to install. Install the actuator into the differential and line up the front slot onto the front screw, but don’t tighten it yet. Install the screw on the back of the actuator and tighten it. This screw seats the actuator in the diff. Install the lower screw, then tighten it and the front screw. Bolt and zip tie the inner fender panel back on and you are done.



I did notice a couple things about the actuator while I had it apart. This may help with troubleshooting.


A. If it runs continuously, more than likely a gear has stripped out and you’ll need a new actuator. When a gear strips, the worm gear assembly can’t slide back and forth to trip the limit switches. The motor then runs constantly. If a gear is stripped, then it’s time for a new actuator.


B. The electronics in this thing are very simple. Should be able to look up parts to find replacements. They are probably readily available and inexpensive. There are three transistors (Q1, Q2, and Q3), two limit switches (SW1 and SW2), a relay (K1), three resistors (R1, R2, and R3), a larger diode (D1), two smaller diodes (D4 and D5), and finally the servo motor.


C. I added a pin out of the bottom of the circuit card assembly to aid trouble shooting. The K1 relay is a single pole double throw, which means it changes the direction of the servo motor by changing polarity of the power going to the motor's terminals depending on whether 2wd or 4wd is activated.


Replacement parts

A. Limit switches (SW1 and SW2), Cherry Electronics Part # DH2CB1PA
About $2- 4 each, depending on where you buy them. Sager had the lowest price at around $2.

General Info
http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/submini/dh.htm
B. Large diode (D1), International Rectifier Part # 50WQ03FN
C. Relay (K1), Omron part # G8ND-2-DC12-SK
D. Resistors (R1, R2, & R3), I'll update with exact part numbers and places to purchase later
Resistor Values: R1 is a 1K ohm resistor. R2 and R3 are both 3.3K ohm resistors.
The physical size of the resistors need to be determined. I did not measure them when I had my actuator apart. Just measure the length and width and use the corresponding number for the size. Here is a chart of the different sizes.











Rectangular passive components:
  • 01005 (0402 metric): 0.016 × 0.008 in (0.41 × 0.20 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/32 watt
  • 0201 (0603 metric): 0.024 × 0.012 in (0.61 × 0.30 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/20 watt
  • 0402 (1005 metric): 0.04 × 0.02 in (1.0 × 0.51 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/16 watt
  • 0603 (1608 metric): 0.063 × 0.031 in (1.6 × 0.79 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/16 watt
  • 0805 (2012 metric): 0.08 × 0.05 in (2.0 × 1.3 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/10 watt
  • 1206 (3216 metric): 0.126 × 0.063 in (3.2 × 1.6 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/8 watt
  • 1210 (3225 metric): 0.126 × 0.1 in (3.2 × 2.5 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/4 watt
  • 1806 (4516 metric): 0.177 × 0.063 in (4.5 × 1.6 mm)
  • 1812 (4532 metric): 0.18 × 0.12 in (4.6 × 3.0 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/2 watt
  • 2010 (5025 metric): 0.2 × 0.1 in (5.1 × 2.5 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/2 watt
  • 2512 (6432 metric): 0.25 × 0.12 in (6.3 × 3.0 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1 watt
Has anyone done this on a 2012 450 TRV or other model with a four wire actuator? Would the same rebuild be possible? My actuator will not disengage from diff lock to 4wd. The actuator engages fine from two wheel to four wheel and then to diff lock. Thanks for any info.
 

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Welcome to the forums mudmaster.

I can't verify that the parts are the same on your machine. I can tell you that my '07 400LE, which has the four wire actuator, has the same electronic components as what cr724 shows on his.

Also to anyone who might have had a problem with the servo motor not working. Let me know where you found a new one. I can't seen to located them anywhere. Sanger doesn't have them and Johnson's website does not list a distributor in the US who carries their motors.I dunno
 

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Thanks for this write up. I could use some help troubleshooting my actuator. It's for a 05 400 FIS auto, it looks the same in side and out with the acceptation of a 4 wire plug instead of 3. I took the actuator and 2wd/4wd button apart and cleaned them both with electric cleaner but it still doesn't work quite right. Here is what I found so far

4wd
Motor turns until sw1 is pressed

2wd
Motor does not turn. I can hear the relay on the board click if sw2 is pressed

I put a volt meter to the prongs in the plug and this is what I found.
4wd
Black to orange= 12v
Black to white= 12v
black to white/red stripe= 0v

2wd
Black to all colors=12v

Anything else I can check before I just throw money at parts? Is there a component between the switch and the actuator? The readings off the actuator plug just don't seem right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
It's just a guess, i don't have my wire diagram, but I think the fourth wire (red/white) goes to the indicator on the instrument pod, so the voltage should switch when 2wd/4wd is selected, This should be the main difference between the 3 wire and 4 wire actuators. Also there are a few extra components in the 4 wire actuator than what the 3 wire actuator has. I'l look at the wire diagram tomorrow and let you know. There should be any thing between the switch and actuator
 

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At first it didn't make sense why all 3 wires have 12v with 2wd selected but like your post says it's the relay in the actuator that changes the polarity for the motor, not something external. My best guess is in 4wd the 4wd/2wd switch is open and the motor is turned until sw1 is hit. When sw1 is hit it trips the relay and shuts off the motor. After that I think there is something wrong with the circuit board on my actuator. In 2wd the 4wd/2wd switch is closed but the motor isn't getting power to turn in the other direction. In 2wd the sw2 is getting power but the motor isn't. For what I know about electronics it's over my head but paying almost $200 for another actuator irks me. I think it would be cool if someone would build more reliable circuit boards for these (more manly parts on a breadboard would work) but I understand it's unlikely since there are so many different models. I have a few people I'll ask but I think they are going to tell me they are too busy.
 

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Just be happy your motor still works.
It's official, I spoke to the OEM, they will not sell you a new motor unless you buy 10,000 of them. I didn't try matching up the specs with another manufacturer which I guess you could do but I think the mounting posts would be a problem to match up.

I bought a second hand actuator that works fine right now. $100 is better than $225.
 

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If it's only the motor you might be able to contact holmeshobbies. It's just a brushed motor they may be able to rebuild it, but since it's sealed they might not want to work on it. They might be able to find another motor the same size.

I'm thinking about trying to ditch the circuit board and rewire it with relays. I figure the actuator already doesn't work I'm really not out much. I should be able to use this diagram but I'm not sure what it would need for resistors or diodes.

Rob Meyer Productions
 

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Actuator leaking shaft seal part # needed

I removed the actuator pulled the cover cleaned all the diff oil
Out. replaced the 2 orings on the outer tube that goes into the front diff
And noticed a third seal the sits inside the tube that goes into the diff
It fits snug on the actuator pin in the front diff and is beveled. I can't find p/n for the seal. That's where all my oil was coming from
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I removed the actuator pulled the cover cleaned all the diff oil
Out. replaced the 2 orings on the outer tube that goes into the front diff
And noticed a third seal the sits inside the tube that goes into the diff
It fits snug on the actuator pin in the front diff and is beveled. I can't find p/n for the seal. That's where all my oil was coming from

make and model please
 

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Sammy is your actuator the the one with electric diff lock? I have tried to remove the cover but it seems to be glued on. I have a 2010 450efi.
 

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Actuator Cover

Sammy is your actuator the the one with electric diff lock? I have tried to remove the cover but it seems to be glued on. I have a 2010 450efi.
Try using a acid brush and appling acetone to the under side of the cover. Have the cover facing down. It will take a few applications of acetone but the cover will start to come off. Be patient!
 
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