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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
0502-296 Actuator (3-wire) removal and disassembly

My actuator had diff oil leaking on it. The diff had too much oil in it causing the oil to seep out around the actuator where it plugs into the differential. So I tore into it to see if any oil had gotten into the actuator. There wasn’t any oil inside the actuator, so I decided to seal the actuator with RTV after I checked it out. Here's how I did it.


1. Remove screw and zip ties from the inner fender panel and remove the panel. (Fig. 1)


2. Lift up tab on actuator connector and disconnect from the main wire harness. (Fig. 2)

3. Loosen the front screw and remove the bottom and rear screws using a Torx T30. (Fig. 3)

4. Slide the actuator backwards off the front screw to remove it (Fig. 4 and 4a).
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
5. Remove seven T20 Torx screws (Fig. 5) and remove cover. (Fig. 6)


6. Carefully lift worm gear assembly, making sure you don’t break the plastic rod (Fig. 7) that hangs over the circuit card. If you break it you’ll be buying a new actuator. This small rod shuts off the servo motor by tripping the limit switches at each end of its range of travel. The worm gear assembly can be broken down by pulling the two halves apart. I didn’t see any reason to take the spring out of the upper half. (Fig. 8)


7. Remove the idler gear, the gasket, and lift the harness and circuit card out of the case.


8. At this point I cleaned the two halves of the case and the gasket with some simple green, water, and a brush. I cleaned the
circuit card with some plastic safe electronics cleaner. Spray the limit switches and carefully work the cleaner into them by switching them off and on repeatedly (Fig. 8a). I also sprayed cleaner in the motor and after it dried I applied a light Teflon based oil to both ends of the motor shaft. I disconnected the connector from the circuit card and put some dielectric grease on the on the connections and plugged it back up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
9. All the original white lithium grease was cleaned off. Got everything clean? Now it’s time put it all back together. (Fig. 9)


10. Reinstall the circuit card. Make sure the rubber grommet on the wires is seated firmly in its slot. Apply fresh white lithium grease to the slots the gear will rest in, the slide areas for the worm gear assembly, and the gear teeth (Fig. 10, 11, and 12). Try not to use too much grease.


11. The worm gear assembly and idler gear were installed.


12. Place the gasket back in its groove.


13. Reinstall the cover and tighten the seven T20 torx head screws. Temporarily reconnect the wires to test the unit by switching the 4wd off and on. Disconnect the wires.

14. Now to seal the actuator. I used an entire ½ oz. tube of black RTV. That is mixture of dishwashing soap and water in the mixing cup, which is used to smooth out the RTV (also keeps it from sticking to your fingers. You want it to be on the soapy side. (Fig. 13)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
15. I applied RTV to the groove on the back side where the two halves of the cover come together (Fig. 14). Make sure to get a little extra around the wires (Fig. 15). Then I smoothed the bead and pushed the RTV into the hard to reach corners with my finger and the soapy water, also check the actuator O-ring (Part # 0423-498 which was replaced by 0423-892 and measures 5/16" x 7/16" x 1/16", should be able to find replacements at hardware or parts store for a fraction of dealer price) to make sure it’s not cracked or damaged (Fig. 15a). Flip the actuator and RTV the screw heads too (Fig. 16). Let the RTV cure for 24 hours. If you ever need to remove the RTV, just pour some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol 91%) on it and work it under the edge of the RTV. It should come off fairly easily once the alcohol gets under the RTV.


16. Reconnect the actuator wire back to the main harness. Turn the key on and flip the switch to 4WD. It’ll make it easier to install. Install the actuator into the differential and line up the front slot onto the front screw, but don’t tighten it yet. Install the screw on the back of the actuator and tighten it. This screw seats the actuator in the diff. Install the lower screw, then tighten it and the front screw. Bolt and zip tie the inner fender panel back on and you are done.



I did notice a couple things about the actuator while I had it apart. This may help with troubleshooting.


A. If it runs continuously, more than likely a gear has stripped out and you’ll need a new actuator. When a gear strips, the worm gear assembly can’t slide back and forth to trip the limit switches. The motor then runs constantly. If a gear is stripped, then it’s time for a new actuator.


B. The electronics in this thing are very simple. Should be able to look up parts to find replacements. They are probably readily available and inexpensive. There are three transistors (Q1, Q2, and Q3), two limit switches (SW1 and SW2), a relay (K1), three resistors (R1, R2, and R3), a larger diode (D1), two smaller diodes (D4 and D5), and finally the servo motor.


C. I added a pin out of the bottom of the circuit card assembly to aid trouble shooting. The K1 relay is a single pole double throw, which means it changes the direction of the servo motor by changing polarity of the power going to the motor's terminals depending on whether 2wd or 4wd is activated.


Replacement parts

A. Limit switches (SW1 and SW2), Cherry Electronics Part # DH2CB1PA
About $2- 4 each, depending on where you buy them. Sager had the lowest price at around $2.

General Info
http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/submini/dh.htm
B. Large diode (D1), International Rectifier Part # 50WQ03FN
C. Relay (K1), Omron part # G8ND-2-DC12-SK
D. Resistors (R1, R2, & R3), I'll update with exact part numbers and places to purchase later
Resistor Values: R1 is a 1K ohm resistor. R2 and R3 are both 3.3K ohm resistors.
The physical size of the resistors need to be determined. I did not measure them when I had my actuator apart. Just measure the length and width and use the corresponding number for the size. Here is a chart of the different sizes.











Rectangular passive components:
  • 01005 (0402 metric): 0.016 × 0.008 in (0.41 × 0.20 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/32 watt
  • 0201 (0603 metric): 0.024 × 0.012 in (0.61 × 0.30 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/20 watt
  • 0402 (1005 metric): 0.04 × 0.02 in (1.0 × 0.51 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/16 watt
  • 0603 (1608 metric): 0.063 × 0.031 in (1.6 × 0.79 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/16 watt
  • 0805 (2012 metric): 0.08 × 0.05 in (2.0 × 1.3 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/10 watt
  • 1206 (3216 metric): 0.126 × 0.063 in (3.2 × 1.6 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/8 watt
  • 1210 (3225 metric): 0.126 × 0.1 in (3.2 × 2.5 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/4 watt
  • 1806 (4516 metric): 0.177 × 0.063 in (4.5 × 1.6 mm)
  • 1812 (4532 metric): 0.18 × 0.12 in (4.6 × 3.0 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/2 watt
  • 2010 (5025 metric): 0.2 × 0.1 in (5.1 × 2.5 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/2 watt
  • 2512 (6432 metric): 0.25 × 0.12 in (6.3 × 3.0 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1 watt
 

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Thats an excellent post on "How to"!!!! Thank you sir!!!!! This should be in the pinned section IMO!! Very helpful write up along with great pictures! thanks!
 
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Very nice write up! Clap should be pinned.


Mike
 
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Thanks this should be pinned!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks guys!!! I've learned so much from this forum. I'm glad that I can give something back that others can learn from.
 

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STICKY THIS PLEASE! Drive Actuator "How To"

Thanks for the great post! How do we get the moderators to pin this as a sticky? It seems to be a pretty common problem. I've seen a lot of similar posts asking the same question that go without responses and this HOW TO by cr724 is the best option I've come across!
 

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I know this may sound stupid but is this what makes my bike engage 4WD when I am in deep water? And if I do these steps it will stop?
 

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Will some one please pin this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Update. I did this repair last summer hoping that cleaning all internal connections would fix my sluggish actuator. Sometimes there is still a delay from the time I flip the switch to the actuator engaging. I suspect the relay may be the culprit. I think I'll order a new relay and I'll report back and let you guys know if that fixed the problem.

I'll also measure the resistors and narrow the list down to the exact ones that are in the actuator.
 

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I still believe this is a great thread on "how to" and should be put into the "stickies/pinned" section. I hope the appropiate people see this and decide to move it for to help others.
Thanks for the great info bud!! We appreciate it very much!!
 
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Done....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I consolidated my posts together and added a new pic of the actuator electrics
 

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cr724 did you ever replace the relays?

I've got an '07 400LE that engages very slowly. The actuator is not the same part# as yours but they look similar. I'm thinking of doing the same to mine.

Do you think it matters if the machine is in 2 or 4 as before disassembly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No, I never got around to replacing the relay. My actuator has a mind of its own and has been working fine.

It shouldn't matter if the diff is in 2wd or 4wd before you remove the actuator. The rod in the diff (Fig 4) will spring backwards to the 4wd position when the actuator is removed.

When reinstalling the acuator set it to 4wd position so you are not compressing the spring in the diff while bolting the actuator in.
 

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I am new to the forums. I am having the same problem on my 2011 700 cat. The dif oil has filled the actuator, and the 4 wheel drive no longer works. I looked at other websites and thought this was one of the best tutorials. What did you use to clean the current glue off the actuator to get into it? It sounds like this is a issue many people are having why has arctic cat not fixed this problem.

I have seen one website that someone had removed the actuator and created a manual nob to work the 4 wheel drive. This removed the actuator all together. Has anyone done this? This website did not give a tutorial on how they did it.
 

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There's no glue just an oring between the cover and body.

Electronics Technology Electronic device Auto part

If there is oil in it the oring on the snout that goes into the diff is bad or missing. About 2 cents at a hardware store. Use electrical contact cleaner to clean the board and cross your fingers
 

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Mine they have glue the cover on, also the cover has Phillip screws instead of T20 screws. On the opposite side of the wires which is 4 not 3 it has a metal pin looks like it could move. It goes into a pin on the side of the differential.

 
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