The sensor is bad would be my thought.
The header gasket is also bad. Should be little to no movement.

 

It’s not the sensor itself, it’s the connector that powers the sensor. It’s giving the sensor too much power.


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There must be a resistor in line that drops the voltage.

 

You know where that resistor might be? I got a wiring diagram from country cat but it’s too small to read.


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Per step 3, you need to check the connection and the wiring. A wiring diagram could be helpful. Maybe a bent pin on the connector or a chafed wire.

Were you able to do step 4? I have trouble with those tests as I don't have the maxi clips.

 

Per step 3, you need to check the connection and the wiring. A wiring diagram could be helpful. Maybe a bent pin on the connector or a chafed wire.



Were you able to do step 4? I have trouble with those tests as I don't have the maxi clips.

No I wasn’t able to do step 4. I’m not going to bother doing it until I get the voltage at the connector fixed.


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There is a sticky on how to print and read the schematics.

 

I printed the wiring on 4 sheets of paper, cut the margins and taped it together. I could follow the lines and read the print.


I wouldn't tear into the harness yet, that's a pain. Do you have a multimeter? I put mine on the ohm/tone setting and check for connections. It should tone when you touch the pin and the wire at the sensor end. It shouldn't tone any other time, so touching the other pins should do nothing.

 

.....

 

I called my dealer to confirm and that gasket was replaced in September. They thought that’s what was causing the backfiring. The gasket that’s on there now looks the same compared to pictures of the new ones I’ve seen.

What’s wrong with it? Seems ridiculous that it would “wear” out that quick. Unless the backfiring is wrecking it.

Is there a cheaper alternative to a replacement gasket? They want $20 for it and my dealer now wants to charge me shipping on parts.


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Did a continuity test for all three wires for the MAP connector. 0.03 ohms for each.

Not sure if that’s good or not?
I could test the ground and power wires for all the other sensors too, because they are wired together. Could also test voltage at other sensors to see if it’s higher than it should be.


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Found the area on the rad where the leak is. Upper right corner metal. Haven’t pin pointed it though. It’s probably barely visible since it is a slow leak. Not sure how I’m supposed to fix it? I know there’s those leak additives that you put in the coolant, but I’ve read that those aren’t permanent fixes.



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I’ll bring it to a radiator shop tomorrow see if they can fix it


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Radiator shop is closed until Tuesday because of the long weekend, so that’s going to have to wait. Found a new exhaust gasket from Kimpex, it wasn’t on their site I got it from another dealer that doesn’t even sell Arctic Cats.


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Make sure you torque to spec.

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Wrong thread? While your here, what do you think I should do next?


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Checked continuity for all sensor connectors related to MAP sensor.

MAP to Conputer 0.03
MAP ground 0.03
MAP power 0.03

TPS ground 0.03

Coolant temp power 0.03 (not related)
Coolant temp ground 0.03

Air temp power 0.03 (not related)
Air temp ground 0.03

TPS to MAP - power
0.03

They’re all the same resistance as you can see. Is there any other wires to test? What else could be causing the higher voltage? I don’t see the point of doing the MAP sensor test at idle right now because of the high reading with ignition on. I think it would just be higher.


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It seems very strange you would get exactly the same resistance reading on all those connectors?

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It’s a new multi meter so not sure why they would all be the same. I use a small piece of wire inserted into where a pin would go, then touch the probes to the wire. Making sure that the wire isn’t contacting any other metal of course.


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So if I have this right. All the wires connect to the right places. Now test if any of them connect to wires they should not. i.e a chaffed wire will make connections to ground or other wires that it is not suppose to make.




Have you tested the battery running and not running for voltage? Checked the map sensor voltage running and just in the on position but not running? I curious if the voltage level in 12.6V in the on position or 14.5 running makes a difference.


Keep plugging away, you will find the problem.

 

So if I have this right. All the wires connect to the right places. Now test if any of them connect to wires they should not. i.e a chaffed wire will make connections to ground or other wires that it is not suppose to make.









Have you tested the battery running and not running for voltage? Checked the map sensor voltage running and just in the on position but not running? I curious if the voltage level in 12.6V in the on position or 14.5 running makes a difference.





Keep plugging away, you will find the problem.

I tested all three map sensor wires to each wire in each sensor connector. Couldn’t find anything off. I haven’t tested continuity between each MAP sensor wire yet. I didn’t bother with the tilt sensor so I’ll do that too.


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X2 ^^^
Does the manual say running or not ?

 

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.....

 

MAP sensor wires not contacting each other.


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Currently testing each pin for the the MAP sensor connector to every other pin in the computer connector for continuity.


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Everything passed on the computer connector. Only other thing I can think to check is the tilt sensor for continuity with the MAP sensor. I think I’ve covered everything related to the MAP sensor wires. More suggestions welcome.


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Exhaust gasket is in. Going to install the exhaust tonight and do some electrical tests with the tilt sensor wires and MAP sensor wires. I may retest the MAP sensor connector voltage again. I’m going to torque the exhaust bolts, but wondering if I should put some high temp rtv on the gasket and muffler donut just to as extra sealing?

Do you guys think the exhaust gasket wore out prematurely because of the backfiring?


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Got the radiator hole fixed. $40 Going to pick it up tomorrow and once I get the engine running right I’m going to flush the cooling system.


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Just put the gasket in dry !

 

I got the exhaust gasket installed. The pipe still moves around like before. I put the bolts in loosely then put the muffler on and then torqued the bolts to ensure that it tightened down evenly. The metal plate that the bolts go through is tight against the cylinder head.

Before I put the gasket in I noticed there was some grey stuff where the pipe goes in, looks to be rtv. Cleaned some carbon off of the mating surfaces too. I compared the old gasket to the new gasket and there is a very small difference in thickness, but there is no copper on the old gasket.

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I did some searching and found someone with a 650 who had the same problem. Apparently speedwerx sells an “upgraded” gasket that fixes the problem. $20US +shipping. Seems like if I just had a thicker gasket it would get rid of the movement. Maybe I could put my 2 gaskets together?

Even though that MAP sensor connector voltage is high with the ignition on, looks like this could be what is causing the backfiring.


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I’ll try putting both gaskets in and see if it gets rid of the movement.


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Both gaskets in and no movement. I don’t have any more electrical tests to do so I think I’m going to hookup all the electrical connections and put the air box in so I can flush the cooling system and I’ll be able to see if it’s still backfiring.


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