Talk about a rock and a hard place

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Ricks Motorsports Electrics didn't have it. The guy with the bad harness forgot to get it from his cottage this week so I have to wait until next weekend for him to get that and ship it. Arctic Cat tech/engineering is still closed, but once they are open I have a guy thats going to see about getting me a connector. Going to call tomorrow and see how much longer they are closed.

So for the wiring harness guy its going to be at least another week plus a few days for shipping.

For Arctic Cat customer support if they are open its about a week shipping.

My third option is the Husqvarna route. I found a dealer out of town who can get me the part in about a week, but its going to cost $75 with shipping and I can't confirm if its the right connector or not because they don't have a picture of it in their system.

 

Try this place ?

550 H1 4 pin Connector?

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...-Connector?.452130/&share_type=t&link_source=app[/URL]"]550 H1 4 pin Connector?

 

Sent them an email on Friday. Got a guy that has a bad harness from an 09 Mudpro 700 wants $30 for it. Wouldn’t really like to go that route because I’d have to take every pin out of the connector and risk damaging it. Going to check eBay and also try to find a Husqvarna motorcycle dealer in Canada that could order the connector for me.


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Unfortunately JST or any of the JST electrical distributors sell the connector I need. JST provided the part numbers for the individual pieces which is helpful, but I can’t find anywhere else that sells the connector. I tried to find a place where I could buy that KTM/Husqvarna connector, but most places locally seem to only sell power equipment and online was the same. I’ll try calling a local Husqvarna dealership and seeing if I can get one from there. Arctic Cat customer support still didn’t email me back after more than a week, so I called. I explained the situation and they said they will talk to a tech person and see what they can do.


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Gotta love the internet. Have you tried RM Stator ?

 

Yeah I believe I emailed them a while ago about it, I’ll double check though.


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Well more good news. I checked the ECU connector again for any numbers and couldn't find anything, so I got the ECU itself and inspected it looking for any numbers I could do some research on. I don't know how I missed it, but on the skinny side of the ECU is "Keihin PBT-GF30". I kept looking around the ECU and noticed some numbers on the inside. In between the pins is stamped "JST UAA" this is the type of connector that plugs into the ECU. I searched up the code and checked Digikey, JST (manufacturer) and Mouser (a JST electrical distributor for Canada). I couldn't find the connector listed for sale on any websites, the only thing I found was a few dirt bike and sport quad forum posts about people that used the same connector for their ECUs and needed replacements. I found a part # for the replacement connector through Husquavarna/KTM and its going to cost around $50 plus shipping. I don't really want to pay that much for the connector, but it is an option so I put it on the back burner and kept researching. I emailed back Digikey with more info, I then contacted Keihin, Mouser and JST and explained the situation and asked if they sell a replacement connector or knew where I could buy a replacement from.

 

Sounds like progress!! Nice detective work.

 

Some good news, was doing the remaining continuity/resistance tests on the wires and found a blown 15amp accessory fuse. I checked the wiring diagram and that chafed power wire is in the same circuit. I replaced the fuse with a spare and checked all the other fuses which are good. I don't know if this is the source of my problem, but its the only thing I can find. The ecu connector is in the same area so I'm thinking it was moving the power wire and shorting it out.

Working on getting a replacement ECU connector too, I contacted digi key and they suggested a few possible names so I'm going to have to look around their website. Someone also suggested I check Maslack (auto parts store), I doubt they will have it, but I will check there if I need to. Arctic Cat customer support responded a few days ago, and said they would be in contact very soon, but I haven't received another email since.

 

That's the old style ecu..
The link I posted is for the new metal housing ecu.

 

ECU connector

 

This should be the ecu connector:

1393450-3 TE Connectivity AMP Connectors | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. 1393450-3 – 52 Rectangular Connectors - Housings Receptacle Black from TE Connectivity AMP Connectors. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

 

The ecu connector? the terminal in the fuse box, or both?

 

I took the fuel relay wire out of the fuse block and ecu connector and retested the resistance and unfortunately the resistance is 0.03 ohms. I must've not had good contact with the pins when testing continuity the first time. I also accidentally broke the plastic retainer in the ecu connector when removing the wire. I still have some more wires to test so hopefully I find something. I won't be working on it for a day or so though.

 

I contacted AC customer support and they haven't gotten back to me yet, posted on an atv FB group hoping someone knows the name of the connector or has a bad wiring harness I can take the connector off of. Going to take the fuel relay wire out of the harness and test again.

 

I have to give you credit, you are persistent.

 

alright well I was doing some resistance/continuity tests on wires from the ecu connector and most wires were in the 0.03 to 0.05 ohms range, but the fuel relay wire that goes from PIN 11 in the ECU connector to the fuel relay, had a higher resistance. The lowest I saw was around 2.5 ohms. Wire looks good externally, but I suppose it cold be broken slightly internally. While I was trying to remove the pin for the wire from the ECU connector, I accidentally broke the little plastic retainer tab for the wire in PIN 13. PIN 13 is the sensor power wire, so it is important. I don't want to get my hopes up that the fuel relay wire is my problem yet, but I'll remove it from the fuse block and ecu connector tomorrow and do another resistance test. I do have a few other wires from the ECU connector to test also. I think I will need a new ECU connector and last time I checked Arctic Cat doesn't sell a repair kit for it, so I would need to either get a replacement from customer support or buy one from an electrical supplier if I can find the name.

 

You are just looking for out of the norm resistance which could mean a wire partially broken inside.

 

I would check resistance not just continuity.

 

I made a list of wires to check for continuity/resistance. The lowest setting on my multi meter for resistance is the one I check continuity with. It gives usually gives me a readout around 0.3 ohms and beeps. I remember last year I got the same resistance for most of the wires going from sensors to the ecu connector which seems odd I guess.

 

It very well could have. Surprising it didn’t blow a fuse.

 

Well I think that’s it for the chafed wires, I will do a couple continuity checks to be sure, but do you think I should go ahead and wrap it up after that?

 

Goes from starter solenoid to main fuse. I cut out the bad part and spliced it back together with a crimp connection. I’m no electrician, but I wonder if it was touching metal and shorting out and messing up the rest of the electrical system?

 

Did you untape everything?

 

yep every thing, I have been carefully following each wire under a desk light looking for anything, but only thing I have found is a power wire chafed slightly. I'll post a pic in a second.

 

I can’t see any visible chafes in the wires, fuse block wires are good. I don’t really know where to start for checking wires for continuity so I think I’m just going to check all the ones that could’ve caused any of the engine codes I was getting.

 

Wire harness construction/chafing/splices

Wire harness construction/chafing/splices

All, Im working on a 2010 mud pro 1000, diagnosing a 10 amp power fuse that keeps blowing. I need to isolate the harness to test it properly - and to do this, I need to get at some of the various splice points in the circuit (represented as black dots or junctions on the wiring diagram). Im an...

r.tapatalk.com

 

Anything obvious?

 

Not really, there was a few spots where the tape was rubbed through, but I didn’t really check those spots out yet.

 

Got all the old tape and loom off. Took forever was glued on really good. I accidentally cut into some wires in a few spots, but I’ll cut and splice them. Tomorrow I’m going to go over the entire harness and repair anything that needs it and then test continuity of every wire. Then re insulate with loom and tape.