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2000 Arctic Cat 300 4x4 clutch ?

12K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  cordak  
#1 ·
Hello all.
I believe my clutch is starting to slip. It will grab and then let go when accelerating. I just adjusted the clutch which I found was out of spec by three and a half turns. Turned in to stop, backed off 1/8 turn. Now it bearly even grabs at all. Dose anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks
 
#3 ·
X2^^^
 
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#4 ·
Well heres the funny part. Thinking maybe i was supost to trun it out. Not in. I turned adjuster screw out and locked it. The machine was able to move some. Still slipping lots. But moving. While troble shoting i found that i (stupidly) put in the wrong oil. Not wet clutch approved. So now what? Flush-fill with right oil? Or am i in for new clutches?
Thanks
 
#5 ·
You might be lucky changing to correct type of oil. All you can do is try it and be out the cost of oil. How long have you run it with wrong oil?
 
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#6 · (Edited)
Ive been running it for about two weeks. The slippage went from once and awhile to dam near nothing in last four days of riding. I dont go far but i do have hills everywhere and do carry heavy loads. Ive ordered used clutches. From what i have found on this site about this, my clutches shoud be toast. Now just need to find the tools to do job.
Hub. Holder
Shoe remover
No more putting two jugs of oill side by side that look similar. Im such a d.a.
 
#7 ·
Ouch! I (for the wife not me) have been writing with sharpie marker on all my cans to identify which is which (mix for stihl chainsaw, mix for cheap chainsaw and weed whacker, diesel, kerosene, straight gas). BUT I still read them every time I pick one up just in case I'm in a hurry.
If you've already ordered the clutches, I'd say do it. I think you're right thinking they are toast. If I were flushing them after putting in the wrong oil, I would do a flush NOW, and then run it, and then another flush when you put the clutches in. This way you can reduce the amount of wrong oil in there. Just my $.02
Around here, our local auto parts store offers free tool rental. You "buy" it, and then return it. As long as it's in good working order, you get your $$ back. Not sure what's available in Ontario though.
 
#8 ·
I would still change oil and run it. Make sure your cable is adjusted back to original spot. If all is good, great. Change oil again after a good warm up. If the first oil change doesn't do it, replace your clutches you're getting.
 
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#9 ·
Good info. I will flush out with right oil befor clutch swap. I will have to look around and see if i can find someone that has tools. We do have a tool loan program at a couple stores. Dont think they will have these but dont hurt to check. No wonder ther dealer gets so much for an hourly rate. Have you seen the price of these tools. One is 58 bucks and the other is 161. Didnt even look for the third one. Pretty expensive for a one time use. I hope. Oh. And the gasket is 35 bucks. WOW. I can get a full kit for 60. Marking bottles is a good idea. I usally put things in there proper home. Just misplaced this one as things got moved around in haste. Costing me now. Im no stranger to fixing things usally its because i was having too much fun not being stupid. Thanks for all the help. Will read up on adjusting shifter cable too. Can never know too much. My hat can always incress in size.
 
#11 ·
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#13 ·
I think this is more of just knowing how to adjust any type of adjustable cable. There should be an adjuster close to where the foot shifter connects to the cable it has a lock/nut on the cable adjuster, you loosen the lock/nut and turn the adjuster clockwise or counter/clockwise to tighten or loosen the shift cable. If it's still acting up once you have it working properly, and by properly I mean that when you move the foot shifter, there is barely any slack in the cable, then I would tear it off and go with the direct linkage instead of the cable. Honestly, I would just rip it out while you're working on it and put the linkage on it now to save yourself the headache later.
 
#15 ·
My 05 300 manual is solid linkage. 02-05 300's would be model and years to look at. Maybe 250's too. It would be nice to have both types beside each other to see what's needed to change it over. Maybe someone else has done this and has parts list/instructions.
 
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#16 ·
I read somewhere that someone was successful with the 03 model linkage. But there's no step by step, or part numbers I was able to find for you... sorry. In reality, if you have some good ingenuity, you could probably fabricate one with some all-thread and nuts and bolts. I've done it on a modified front forks on my 06 VStar I used to own.
 
#17 ·
Got my clutches in. Bike works great again. My clutch adjustment was way off. The manual says to put adjusting screw in all the way and back off 1/8 turn. I knew something was wrong with the way this read but its the manual. It knows what its saying. It should say turn in until resistance, then turn back out 1/8 turn. I was turning the screw all the way in until it would not go any further, then back 1/8 turn. Well no wonder my clutch never grabbed. This opened the clutches fully. Good learning lesson. As for the special tools needed for removal. (As per the manual) They are not needed. Just hold on to the clutch and blast off the nut. The clutches just slide off from there. If using hand tools, I could see the use of the hub holder, but i had no issue with an 14 volt impact. Just want to say thanks for the help and happy and safe riding.