from my experience, 18% gear reductions means about an 18% loss in speed. Just my 2 pennies.

 

I did a 9% reduction once on a Honda and actually gained a couple MPH. At 18% I would probably expect a slight reduction in top end, but likely not 18%.

 

Thanks for the reply HD. I was wondering if I might get a few more rpms and end up not losing too much top end. I also will be running 27" outlaws so my ratio should be closer to stock.

WC

 

I've seen them talking about it over on Highlifter.......I don't quite remember the price tag. Is it an expensive mod? I dunno

 

You can get the parts new for about $300 in the states if you buy suzuki.

WC

 

You will loose alot of top end. I have it and rapped out in first gear low, my top speed is 4mph. Mine doesnt even come out of high anymore unless i am mud bogging.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (walkingcrow @ Dec 22 2007, 08:58 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

You can get the parts new for about $300 in the states if you buy suzuki.

WC[/b]

$300? thats just for front gears due to the locker.

 

This is for a clutch upgrade for the 500 manuals at the transmission its not in the diff.

WC

 

I think that all of the concern about top end is overrated. My brother has a grizzly that has a higher top speed than my V2. The only place we have noticed a difference was on a dirt airstrip when we drag raced. The V2 was faster off the line ( in spite of a hefty weight disadvantge) and tied up until the very end. Otherwise the quads are for all practicle purposes even. Niether one of us can leave the other behind. Most all roads/trails don't allow a quad to top out, so it's a moot point.

 

We can also legally run the roads up here where I am so its nice to get up to at least 50 mph although when I pin mine it will do closer to 60 but I don't run it up at those speeds for extended periods. I want the low end snap which is why I'm doing it as 95% of my riding is below 35 mph but I want to know before I buy the parts how much top end I'm gonna lose.

WC

 

walkingcrow-what are the P/N's from Suzuki for this mod? I dunno

 

OK, I understand now. If you can hook up a tach temporairily and see how high it will rev in 4th, and 5th now, you can get a very good idea. If for example it will rev to 5000 in 4th, but only 4500 in 5th, then you will likely gain those 500 rpms once the 18% is installed. Armed with that info, doing some math will tell you what your new top speed is likely to be.

 

I think the part no.'s are as follows. I am fairly confident because others who have done the mod listed these numbers but I haven't had them in hand. I know the older 400's have different numbers so be careful if you are buying used or buying for an older 500 etc.

SUZUKI
21200-38850 Primary driven gear
21120-38F60 Starter clutch housing

A.C.
3446-291 Primary driven gear
3446-352 Starter clutch housing

WC

 

Just curious, but I thought I read these were "custom" made gear sets by someone over on Highlifter???? I dunno

 

The only work that has to be done is taking the bushings out of the 500 starter clutch and putting them in the starter clutch out of a 400. It's that easy.
-Marty

 

i'm RARELY ever going over 40mph, and i could use the added torque for pulling. so if it's as easy as some say it is, this mod is in my future.

in trying to figure out which mod i want to do, i computed the overall ratios for the common gear mods for us, so this will help you see how the individual gears are affected (all the numbers are x:1, so i just left that part out):

2006 AC500m
Primary: (63/31) 2.032
Secondary: 17/15 (1.133)
Secondary trans reduction: low: 2.419
-------------------------------high: 1.592

Gear | Teeth | Ratio | Overall w/ 3.6s | Overall w/ 4.0s | Overall w/ 18% | Overall (4.0s & 18%)
----------------------------(Stock Gears)
High Range
1st----34/11---3.09-------40.770--------------45.300---------------48.109----------------53.454
2nd---28/16---1.75-------23.090--------------25.656---------------27.246----------------30.274
3rd---24/20---1.20-------15.833--------------17.592--------------- 18.683----------------20.759
4th---21/24---0.875------11.545--------------12.828---------------13.623-----------------15.137
5th---21/29---0.724-------9.554--------------10.616----------------11.274----------------12.527
Rev------------2.636------34.780--------------38.644---------------41.040-----------------45.600

Low Range
1st---34/11----3.09-------61.949--------------68.832---------------73.099----------------81.222
2nd--28/16----1.75-------35.086--------------38.984---------------41.401----------------46.001
3rd--24/20----1.20-------24.059--------------26.732---------------28.389----------------31.544
4th--21/24----0.875------17.543--------------19.492---------------20.700----------------23.000
5th--21/29----0.724------14.515--------------16.128---------------17.128----------------19.031
Rev------------2.636------52.848--------------58.720---------------62.361----------------69.290

so you can see that with the 18% reduction only, reverse gear in low will feel like 1st/low completely stock. orrrrrrr, with the 18% reduction only, 5th/high will feel about like 4th/high completely stock, so if you want to know how much speed you'll loose or what rpm you cruise at at any speed, drive around in 4th/high while completely stock. there's your answer :chug:

edit- ok, so the dang site removed my formatting, so i just used hyphens to line it up. or you could copy and paste into a text editor and reorganize it for future reference.

 

Great info LFM. Not worthy:

WC

 

Damn Liveformud, Thats some great information. I am doing the 18% on mine next week. The 4:1's are a little more than what I wanna spend. It's time to get ready Mud Nats, to mush to do!
-Marty

 

A 30" tire has a 17.5% larger circumfrence than a 25" tire.
25 x 3.1416 = 78.54
30 x 3.1416 = 92.248
92.248 - 78.54 = 13.708
13.708 / 78.54 = .175
= 17.5%

Therefore the final drive should be about the same with a 30" tire and the lower gear set as stock with 25" tires. So if top speed is an issue, you should be able to gain most of it back by running a larger tire. I have been thinking about doing this mod for a while also. The only thing stopping me is the extra strain being put on all of the drive components. I hope this math makes sense, just thought I would take a shot at it.

 

i realize how old this thread is, but i am grateful for the information provided here! i hardly ever get my new to me (and almost brand new) 500 into 5th gear and usually just ride around the house in the woods, so the 18% gear reduction seems like it would be perfect for me for hauling wood and doing work around the house. i just ordered the complete used centrifugal clutch and clutch basket complete with clutch disks from an eiger with side case gasket for a grand total of $116. for the amount of money on the parts, this was a no brainer for me!

 

i just realized something while going back though the gear reduction threads. while looking through them, there was one person that said the 99 500m had the same gear set as the 400, so i went and looked at some of them on ebay. in comparing the 99 centrifugal clutch to the eiger 400, i realized the older 500 clutch has 6 plates vs the 4 of the 400, so to me, that means the 400 clutch would be more likely to slip than the 500 clutch.

400 clutch

500 clutch

i managed to find that 2000 centrifugal clutch for $25, so i figure heck, more options the better, right? also, it looks like the bushing size is different as well, so the 2000 might bolt up without any modifications!
400 clutch bushing

500 clutch bushing

 

Nice

 

The person with the 99 500 was likely me took a lot of parts out of the old 99 to put into my 07 500m that i still use today been a great machine The 18% gear reduction from 99 to 2002 500 is a direct bolt in and you will love it only lost maybe 3 to 5 mph with 28 zillas.Here is a couple other parts that were better on the 99 than the 07 that i swapped over, the 99 had a clutch on one of the starter gears instead of 2 idler gears,this prevents starter kickback damage that i got on the 07 busted starter gear and shaft, starter motor and had to replace both center casing and outer casing because when the shaft broke it busted both shaft boss's.The starter clutch is also direct fit the 99 shafts are also solid the 07 is hollow thin shafts and the 99 starter motor shaft is supported with a bearing on the outside casing the 07 is not supported at all but the hole is there for the bearing just need the older starter and bearing.If you can get your hands on a complete 99 to 2002 500 you will have plenty of upgrades good luck

 

sure was! the thing is, if i got my hands on a whole unit, i would just try and make it a working unit instead of stealing parts off it. i will keep my eyes out for an inexpensive starter gear though. most on ebay are going for around $75.

 

keep an eye out for old complete engine even if its blown and the old starter is a way better design and direct fit i'm still using the 99 starter that had around 10000 miles plus the 4000 or so miles its been in the 07

 

Doesn’t the 07 already have a starter clutch on the back of the flywheel?

 

nope

What they call a starter clutch in the parts diagrams is actualy a one way bearing the 99 has that also item #1 in starter clutch asembly in the parts diag for 99 is called a limiter and on the 07 its idler #1 totally different As an example if i hit the starter button at 30 bellow it will start turning over till it hits compression stroke and the starter will go into like neutral and just spin without spinning the engine thats the limiter letting go push the button again might do a few more revolutions or turn till it starts only heard it a few times but it seems to work