it cuts the ignition.no spark.there is a way to bypass it but i forgot

 

Thanks, for the info. That's what I was thinking too.

I assume the leads that go to the carbs are connected to switches that sense whether the piston valve is open or closed. If open the ignition is disabled to prevent a start when the throttle is stuck open.

 

That is part of it. There is a magnet in the throttle valve and the sensors, or magnet switches on the outside of the carb sense the position of the valve inside the carb body. There is also a little switch in the throttle block that is activated by the sideways motion of the throttle pivot pin. It is dirt in this area that tends to cause most of the trouble with the TSS acting up. When the TSS acts up it will cause intermittent spark interruption at engine speeds above clutch engagement, so it should not impact on starting and idling. You can test the cut in RPM of the TSS by holding the throttle pivot pin and keeping it from moving laterally as you squeeze the throttle. The engine spark will cut out as the magnets in the throttle valve approach the sensors on the outside of the carb. You can vary the cut in of the TSS by raising, or lowering the height of the sensors.

 

i just cut and spliced a switch in the tss wire, on my M1, so i can use my leftside throttle.
w/ it 'off" and leftside working the only thing that's different is the kill switch doesn't work, though key does.
it designed so the carbs cant go accidently go WOT w/o the throttle working also.
like a stick cable or such.

 

Great info guys. Thanks for the help on the TSS. Finally got to look at it a little bit closer last night. I definitely don't have any issues with the ignition system so guess TSS is not the issue. I had a bog late in the season last year so I tore the carbs down and rebuilt them. I definitely had some junk in there so thought I had the problem licked. I set everything to spec but couldn't get the machine to run. I took them apart a second time to check everything and still no start. That's what started me on the TSS kick. I have rebuilt so many carbs that I feel pretty confident that everthing is right, but not 100%.

I guess I should check my fuel pump to be sure that is functioning properly. Do I need to pressure test it? I'm inclined to simply do a quick flow test with a jar to be sure i am getting gas flow. Thoughts?

Thanks again for the help.

 

so you're getting spark?
fuel in float bowls? then probably not fuel pump
plugs look ok up til now?
you could just rebuild the diaphragm pump for fun, it's cheap and easy.

 

If one of the carbs is stuck open (or sensor not lined up or missing magnet after rebuild) it could also cause a no spark condition. Different ways to bypass it on an open ignition system like yours. You could unplug the 2 prong connectors off the carbs and try for spark. You can unplug a 3 prong connector near the steering column and that will disable your TSS and your kill switch. You can also unplug a four prong connector down near your stator (2 yellow wires and maybe brown and black wires) That bypasses everything else outside of the minimum stuff necessary for the engine to run.

Edit: I reread your bit about no problems with ignition. I guess you can ignore this post. I'll leave the info in case it helps.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (94ZR580 @ Dec 10 2008, 04:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

That is part of it. There is a magnet in the throttle valve and the sensors, or magnet switches on the outside of the carb sense the position of the valve inside the carb body. There is also a little switch in the throttle block that is activated by the sideways motion of the throttle pivot pin. It is dirt in this area that tends to cause most of the trouble with the TSS acting up. When the TSS acts up it will cause intermittent spark interruption at engine speeds above clutch engagement, so it should not impact on starting and idling. You can test the cut in RPM of the TSS by holding the throttle pivot pin and keeping it from moving laterally as you squeeze the throttle. The engine spark will cut out as the magnets in the throttle valve approach the sensors on the outside of the carb. You can vary the cut in of the TSS by raising, or lowering the height of the sensors.[/b]

http://www.arcticchat.com/forums/style_ima...cons/icon10.gif
will your lefty cable go to the carbs? i have the same sled and my lefty throttle is mechanically
connected to the thumb lever, you can disconnect it, then you like. Why disconnect such an
important saftey feature?

 

I have a 92 pantera. It always had a little slack in the throttle. If you were just barely pulling the throttle it would cut out. Other than that it was fine. Recently did a carb cleaning. After putting it back together that slack is gone and it won't idol. To start it you have to hold the throttle a little. As soon as you let off it dies. Any ideas?i

 

Check your throttle lever freeplay. If their to tight it will cause a no idle, like the ignition switch got turned off.
Make sure both cables are adjusted the same.
I just dealt with this on my ext carbs . I had the tension to tight.