Arctic Chat : Arctic Cat Forum banner

oil for 700 efi

4.9K views 27 replies 13 participants last post by  Buddyp  
#1 ·
ok, i cant find the topic....but i was wondering what type of oil to use in the new 700.
our buddy bought one and his dealer said to use synthetic only, but i remember reading on here that people just use regular oil
so before i have to change the oil.....can i use regular 10w-40 like i do in my H1 for break in?

thanks
 
#3 ·
Your owners manual gives guidelines.
 
#4 ·
i checked the manual...it didnt say anything about synthetic...but my buddies dealer said they use it from the factory or something and they have to run it, but i didnt think so...i was just double checkin with you guys

thanks
 
#5 ·
I haven't heard of any manufacture of ATVs that supplies synthetic from the factory. Just not effective cost wise. However I swapped to synthetic at the first oil change and won't be going back to dino oil. I've been using the synthetic that AC supplys. That way i don't have to worry about whether it is the right stuff.
 
#6 ·
polaris runs synthetic in their engines from the factory....if you run regular oil it will blow the side seals out or something like that
 
#7 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Buddyp @ Oct 18 2007, 03:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
polaris runs synthetic in their engines from the factory....if you run regular oil it will blow the side seals out or something like that[/b]
Sound like a urban myth rather than anything factual.
 
#8 ·
thats what i thought.....but ive heard of it happeneing

and my buddy whos a polaris fan said everyone told him the same thing

so idk
 
#9 ·
Any API rated oil (dino or synthetic) with a viscosity specified in the owners manual will protect your engine. I cannot imagine any issue with non-synthetic causing a seal issue with small engine.

On an aside note, there is an issue with Mazda Rotary engines and their factory requirement of using only non-synthetic oils due to the engine design with the oil being injected. According to some reports, using a synthetic in Rotary engines will cause a film to build up that could cause issues. Another possible issue is with the injector pump depending on what you believe.

If you believe any of these reports, none of it is true with normal engine designs. Use whatever oil you wish that meets the API viscosity specifications.

IMHO, however, given that any engine failure/overhaul is going to cost a LOT of money, I prefer to error on the safe side. Some may say you are throwing your money away using synthetics, but with a little over two quarts for a oil change, just how much is it really costing you?
 
#11 ·
I use a 0w40 mobil 1, but when I run out I think I am going to try Amsoil
 
#13 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (oldyeller @ Oct 19 2007, 03:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I'm using the synthetic cat oil...The dealer told me it came from the factory with that oil in it..Seems wierd as I am under the impression you should not use synthetic until the engine is broken in and the rings have seated?[/b]
Urban myth. Just is not true. Some of the high end cars come with synthetic and they break in just fine.
 
#14 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (oldyeller @ Oct 19 2007, 07:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I'm using the synthetic cat oil...The dealer told me it came from the factory with that oil in it..Seems wierd as I am under the impression you should not use synthetic until the engine is broken in and the rings have seated?[/b]
thats what my buddies dealer told him....thats why i was asking, i think im gonna use regular
 
#15 ·
I just had my first service completed on my 07 650 H1 at 165 km. The service manager asked me if I wanted the oil changed to synthetic or stay with the regular oil. I opted for the regular 10-40 oil just because I'm familiar with it.

On my second change (guess around 500-600 km) I'm gonna try the synthetic. Like Bear 45/70 I'm gonna stick with the Arctic Cat Synthetic product. IMO you can't go wrong using the manufacturer's own product. I am sure AC has done tons of reliability testing to ensure their oil products meets all specifications.

If you're gonna be playing a lot in deep water then mineral oil maybe the ticket. There may be a lot of oil changes in your future. Cheaper.
 
#16 ·
Shell Rotella T Synthetic is pretty inexpensive at Wally world and puts up great numbers when it's been sent in for analysis. Being that it's only 2 or 3 quarts depending which motor you have paying a little extra cake doesn't hurt to go synthetic. However frequent changes using good dino will also keep your motor running fine.

I am running the Shell syn in all my motors, trucks, suv, lawn mower, 3 Cat's and occasionally add it to my beer :lol:
 
#17 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Rugby3 @ Oct 20 2007, 03:15 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Shell Rotella T Synthetic is pretty inexpensive at Wally world and puts up great numbers when it's been sent in for analysis. Being that it's only 2 or 3 quarts depending which motor you have paying a little extra cake doesn't hurt to go synthetic. However frequent changes using good dino will also keep your motor running fine.

I am running the Shell syn in all my motors, trucks, suv, lawn mower, 3 Cat's and occasionally add it to my beer :lol:[/b]
You auto guys can run pertty much whatever oil you want. But us manual guys have a wet clutch and certain oils will screw the clutch up real good. That's why I'm going with Arctic Cat's synthetic.
 
#19 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (stroked @ Oct 20 2007, 03:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
has anyone ever seen a difference between the 2 oils i haven't your atv will run great either way your chassis and drivetrain will be worn out long before your engine save your money[/b]
:wtf: Your comment is as ludicrous as it is without merit. You are probably the same guy claiming it's factory's fault your engine went south because you never changed the oil because the drive train was suppose to break first. You need a swift nutkick for making that recommendation on maintenance to others.
 
#20 ·
A quote I remember from a top oil company executive (on condition of anonymity ) was " the CHEAPEST synthetic base we can get is MUCH better than the BEST conventional base we can make"
NOTE: On auto transmissions OTHER than the V2 you STILL have a wet clutch. Do NOT use oils made for cars in these (unless you run a very high viscosity which means it won't have the frictions modifiers needed in the low viscosity oils).
ANY oil designed for 4 stoke motorcycles will work in your 4 stroke ATV.
Use thinner in the winter 0w-whatever and thicker if in a high heat environment (10w-20w-whatever)
Synthetic deals with heat MUCH better than conventional. Mudding makes engines run hot with the very low speeds, and mud packing the radiator.
Shell Rotella Synthetic and Mobil Devlac 1 synthetic are VERY good oils (and a couple of the rare TRUE synthetics you can still get...Amsoil is another, but MUCH more expensive)
Niether one has the friction modifiers found in low vis car oils.

As mentioned before...at just a few quarts per change, synthetic oil is a cheap form of insurance. Conventional oils can do well...but never better than a good synth oil.

Conventional oils won't blow seals (Polaris motors blow them with and without synthetic oil...the oil isn't the cause) and most modern engines with tight tolerances and high quality materials really need minimal break in...most of that is done at the factory when they test the engine...then a change to synth oil is fine. break in will occur with a synth oil...it just doesn't make sense to pay for synth oil only to change it after 100 miles...conventional oil will last that long easily.

If your going to be changing your oil very often because of mudding or sinkings...just get the conventional...will save you money in the long run. Otherwise, always run synthetic.
 
#21 ·
well maybe you should have joined as at the latest yamaha school bear 45/70 to see what the guys from yamaha had to say about oils. it is no doubt in my mind synthetic is better oil,but do we really need to be running it in our atv's? I change my oil a fair amount depending on how much i use it and the conditions i use it in and for summer i run yamalube 20w40 winter 5w30 never had any problems with my atv or any others i have serviced at our shop!!! and my drivetrain will wear out long before my engine does people need to open there eyes instead of there pocket books in alot of cases. maybe an older guy like yourself might get 20 or 30 thousand miles on there atv lol. Or maybe when the drivetrain is junk you can pull the engine out and put it in your next quad lol. Just let me know when you are ready to give me that swift kick i will be waiting
 
#22 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (stroked @ Oct 21 2007, 05:29 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
well maybe you should have joined as at the latest yamaha school bear 45/70 to see what the guys from yamaha had to say about oils. it is no doubt in my mind synthetic is better oil,but do we really need to be running it in our atv's? I change my oil a fair amount depending on how much i use it and the conditions i use it in and for summer i run yamalube 20w40 winter 5w30 never had any problems with my atv or any others i have serviced at our shop!!! and my drivetrain will wear out long before my engine does people need to open there eyes instead of there pocket books in alot of cases. maybe an older guy like yourself might get 20 or 30 thousand miles on there atv lol. Or maybe when the drivetrain is junk you can pull the engine out and put it in your next quad lol. Just let me know when you are ready to give me that swift kick i will be waiting[/b]
Extra oil protection is cheap insurance, just like buying better tires or one grade up fuel. If you wack an engine, it's gonna cost you 20 or more times than what the price of the synthetic is gonna cost you. I used to see guys bring in the blown up outboards all the time cause they cheaped on oil, thank you Penzoil and Quaker State. The only time I saw blow engine with the manufacturer's oil was when an oil pump failed or something broke that had nothing to do with oil or poor quality gas burnt something up. I have never said that the manufacturer's dino oil was bad, just that the synthetic was better. I have a second reason too, my 400 is air and oil cooled and that means more extreme temperature spread during normal operation. Synthetics don't break down under high heat like dino oils do. So synthetic is like a accidental death life insurance policy, you hope it never gets used, but your family sure appreciates it if it all turns to sh!t for you.
 
#23 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Camo_Ninja @ Oct 21 2007, 12:09 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
NOTE: On auto transmissions OTHER than the V2 you STILL have a wet clutch.[/b]
When I asked my dealer about the wet clutch, I was told that the '07 700 efi did not have a wet clutch, only the atv's with manual transmissions do. This has already been echoed by numerous other members in other posts dealing with what type of oil to use. I'm not trying to flame you here, I just want to know where you got your information.
 
#24 ·
Bear, why is it more often than not, you are the first one to start the name calling? Every board I see you on, it's the same thing...

I respect your opinion, I respect your experience. But the rest i can do without.
 
#25 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (TurboTravis @ Oct 21 2007, 02:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Camo_Ninja @ Oct 21 2007, 12:09 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
NOTE: On auto transmissions OTHER than the V2 you STILL have a wet clutch.[/b]
When I asked my dealer about the wet clutch, I was told that the '07 700 efi did not have a wet clutch, only the atv's with manual transmissions do. This has already been echoed by numerous other members in other posts dealing with what type of oil to use. I'm not trying to flame you here, I just want to know where you got your information.
[/b][/quote]

Where the hell did I call anyone a name? I must of missed it.
 
#26 ·
i think you guys are missing the original question which was (can i use regular 10-40 in my quad.)
and the answer is YES you can. My bike is running fine after 7000miles using shell 15-40 in summer and 10-30 in the winter. I havent even had to adjust the valves yet.