Not sure how bad yours is, but drive it like a race sled. If bogging on take off, hold brake, keep blipping the throttle til it clears. Then your good til you idle again. I've been driving sleds that way for a long time. Now if you cleared it and it still bogs, then you need to tune it. Same thing if your coming straight down a mountain. Once you get to the bottom, because it was idling, it can bog sometimes. Again. Just keep blipping the throttle and it will clear.


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Cats efi system is prone to loading up at an idle. I would think that with proper programing of the power commander you could clean it up. You should also check your fuel pressure and make sure your oil pump lever is returning to the stop built on the pump. The injectors on the system react to throttle increase by staying open longer so the more fuel pressure your pump is putting out the more fuel you will be feeding at any given throttle position.

 

If your like me, it's driving you insane, I posted about this exact problem not to long ago, the response I got was to much oil, cat seems to be running in the 25:1 range of oil, so naturally it loads up at idle it's just to much damn oil, shortly when I'm done my stretch at work, I'll be doing the full ride check consumption then adjust test again adjust, hopefully this works because this would make me leave cat all I've ever had was cat, I just can't deal with feeling like I'm driving a 1996 polaris 500 fan


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mapping

Ok, made the switch to cat this year so this is all new to me, have a 14 m8 with full speedwerks exhaust and power commander, it seems like if it idles for any length of time it studders, and feels like its loading up. On hard pulls it feels like it clears out and is fine, problem is 90% of my riding is tight trees so it happens a lot. Does anyone have any suggestions, and is this a common problem. I Figured i would ask before i mess around with fuel mapping, Thanks

I have a 14 also the dealer told me the 14 maps weren't consistant in the midrange you may have to adjust. They add a Jaws setup and with a preprogramed map some were spot on and some were fat in the midrange. Where the 13 all seems to work well with the same map. I see there is a new part number for the 15 ecm too which makes sense

 

13 run smooth right out of the box with FC and map, try and see if you can match it a year backwards, good luck

 

check your oil injection if its loading up the dealer might not have adjusted yours at the breakin point .

 

I doubt oil adjustment has much to do with most of the off idle bog problems. The oil pump lever sets on a stop when at idle and yet many off them have the bog and others don't. No amount of adjusting will change the idle stop. Air temp sensor plays a role in some of the problems. Under hood heat soaks into the air temp sensor so it is adjusting the fuel incorrectly for the actual air temp going into the engine. You would think after all these years with the same engine cat would have figured out how to get the tuning right, it's been a real problem in particularly in the lay down engines.

 

Diggerdown,
I see your point but at the same time as soon as you let it sit and idle it smokes like an old diesel it's crazy!
Ppl have had the problem and did the oil delete and problem gone, cat comes from factory with a 28:1 ratio, that is double the amount that most run, I have not had the chance to mess around with it yet but I will


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I know exactly what you are talking about but I've seen them with the rod adjusted so they are running close to a 50/1 ratio and still load up at idle. When the lever is on the stop it is still letting oil flow through at too high of a rate and I do not think you can adjust that out of them. I guess that is why pre mix helps a lot of them get rid of the bog...a lot but not all.

 

Disconect the throttle safety switch inside the throttle block. 2 wires that just unplug. Black and Grey I do believe. I had the same issue and was told to disconect the TSS. I put a tether on mine for safety. Problem solved. This does not effect the kill switch either.

 

So I better order a tether then! Maybe I should go with the pro armor one. Like the idea of that one

 

same **** with oil delete

Got 13' m8 Bikeman bigbore with the oil delete full exhaust, intake PCV running 40:1 AMS interceptor 91 non ethanol. someone has to know what program at altitude is the best. looking at my map and theres no adjustments until 40% throttle and approx. 4000 rpms. Or something close to that. not sure what all that means but zeros until then. any help?

 

A guy told me to try to adjust the idle screw on the throttle bodies. A higher rpm av idle could clear up the bog.
Sounds quite right to me!

 

I have the same issue with my sled with the SLP pipe, Y pipe, and can and fuel controller. Found that had to do reset voltage, to match sled they where showing 3.5 volts difference. Sounds way cleaner at idle, just have not been able to get out and go for a ride yet

 

Found a high altitude program on Bikeman, that seemed to work for a few hours but getting a TPS wet contact or fail on the dash. got back home and cannot mimic the issue.

 

whats reset voltage? at the TPS?

 

Lets keep it going guys. Very interested in this Thread. I had my ECU flashed by Cat to 2014 Model to try and get rid of the hard start after warmed up. Now I have the same issue and now a throttle hesitation I did not have before. Seems like when you hold it to the bar let off and go to get back on it it hesitates or boggs. Very Annoying.

I own a 2012 F800
I relocated the Inlet Temp Sensor with SLP kit to in front of throttle bodies. Gonna check today to see if the sensor is wet with oil blow back. If it is I will be putting it back to factory location.

 

one of the problems with the oil pump is it's not variable enough they figure oil consumption threw the whole rmp range so it whinds up being to rich at idle and just right at wot, another problem is the lay down eng. wants to pool fuel in the bottom of the case at idle, can't get enough crank case pressure under the crank. thats always been a problem with the lay downs the little ones are worse.something to do with reed valve placement. remapping can help, but then they get lean when you punch it, i wonder if spcare block between the reeds and the crankcase would help, they work on my 94 thundercat, almost to good on that, idle is lean to a point i want to up the pilot jets, but then i'll probably loose my instant throttle response, i have to play with mine cause idle is to lean just like the new ones have to play with theres cause its to rich..

 

Have moved my sensor down and unplugged the throttle safety switch. No more bogging the last 3 rides. And that was in super deep snow.
I don`t have the standard bog even from going down hill at idle Mine is a 13 LTD

 

Hmmm I may have to give this a try. It really does drive me crazy!

 

I have been riding in really deep snow, and no bogs at all! BDX hood and unplugging the Throttle Safety Switch is the best thing I have done to my sled.
I can`t recognize my sled after this mod! Feels like a new sled

 

BDX hood?

 

Cold AirIntake

That hood!

It eliminates the headlight, but I never do night riding. And if I do, I have a 7,5" led down on the hood just in case I will be needing one

 

Me personally I don't need all that intake. Went with these instead.