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2005 Arctic Cat ATV-400 4X4 Auto...green starter button

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13K views 29 replies 6 participants last post by  Jerry Schimpf  
J
#1 ·
Hi there!

Recently, I could no longer start my Arctic Cat using the green starter button.
Initially, the response was intermittant (sometimes it would start and other times in wouldn't).
Finally, I get no response or sound by pressing the green button.

I'm trying desperately to trace the wires from the green button but can't seem to follow.
I took the button apart and cleaned the contacts but no difference (yet my instruments indicate contacts are OK).

I inserted an image to show the wiring colors going into the green switch.
I'm still able to start the machine by using a long screwdriver to short the starter.

I'm hoping someone can help me find a possible break in the wiring or any other cause.

Many thanks in advance to anyone who can help me!

Jerry

Image
 
#2 ·
I have had the start button corrode enough to make it not work. Clean up the connections and try it.
 
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#4 ·
Complete wiring diagrams are available on countrycat.com under technical information. Best to download them so you can zoom in on them better.
 
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#6 ·
Check the wiring under the fuel tank, the 2005 400 still had the old body style, the ignition wire on the right frame rail just infront of the fuel shutoff for some reason wears through over the years on the frame.

You should find evidence that the tape loom is toast there.
 
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#8 ·
Since I found mine chafed through there I've talked to at least 10 others who've found that issue, it's a very common problem on these. I recommend getting some plastic wire loom and re-looming anything you can reach while in there.
 
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J
#10 ·
Hi again Farrix!

I've been trying unsuccessfully to access the location just ahead of the fuel shutoff.

I took off the side panel but can't quite reach the wiring. Looks like I'd have to take off the entire front rack to access the frame where wiring is located. In my case, I've attached so much to the front rack that would also need to be removed.

Unfortunately, I believe the problem is exactly what you suggested and I wish I had the time to remove everything to get at the wiring.

I might just have to continue to use a screwdriver to short out the solenoid in order to start my Arctic Cat!

Thank you so much for detailing the most likely solution and I just wish I was more able to remove everything to replace the wiring at that location.

All the Best,

Jerry
 
#11 ·
Undo the 2 bolts on the fuel tank, slide it back and it will sort of pop out of the front fender giving you access to most of it,
 
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#12 ·
As @Farrix said, pull the tank. It’s quick and easy. You really want to get the short fixed just in case it creates other electrical issues. Reading this thread tells me I should check mine again. I know I did a few years back when I changed my camshaft and rockers.
 
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#14 ·
Does the solenoid click when you hit the button?

Might be a bad solenoid
 
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J
#15 ·
Thanks Farrix!

No, nothing happens and there's no sound when I hit the green button which is what lead me to believe that one of the wires to the green button (orange/white or yellow/green) is broken.

As I mentioned, I can still start my Arctic Cat by shorting the two large nuts with a long screwdriver. If it was a bad solenoid, would I still be able to start it by shorting those two nuts?

Jerry
 
#16 ·
I believe there is a diode in the starter button switch. Read this thread.
www.arcticchat.com

FRUSTRATED! Need help

Looking for help with my starter problem I can’t seem to figure this one out all fuses and relays are good, power to start button, new solenoid. Here is what I can figure out. When I press the start button I read battery voltage at the switch, I get battery voltage all the way to the solenoid...
www.arcticchat.com www.arcticchat.com
 
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J
#17 ·
Thank you doorfx!

I really appreciate your response and reference to the thread.

No, there is no diode in the starter button switch.

Image


I've been able to trace these wires (orange/white & yellow/green) all the way from the green switch right to where these wires (wrapped in large bundle) leave the frame again & head down to the solenoid/starter.

Ultimately, do these wires lead directly to the solenoid?

As I mentioned, I can still start my Arctic Cat by shorting the two large nuts with a long screwdriver. If it was a bad solenoid, would I still be able to start it by shorting those two nuts?

Thanks so much doorfx, I really wish I knew more about motors & such!

Talk soon,

Jerry
 
#18 ·
support.countrycat.com

2005 ATV Wiring Diagrams

support.countrycat.com support.countrycat.com

Using a screwdriver to short the 2 bolts on top of the solenoid is how you bypass the solenoid when it fails, it's how you used to start old chevy and ford trucks when the solenoid/ignition went bad. Generally the solid indicator that your solenoid or something for it is gone bad is that bypassing it by shorting over the top still starts it.

Yellow and green goes to the Neutral relay/Start in Gear relay. Have you tried swapping the relays or starting both in Neutral and in gear holding the brake?

Unplug the connector from the solenoid,
Image


Try testing the green wire for 12v when holding the green button on the bars, test the black wire for continuity to ground,

try putting 12v to solenoid pin for green wires pin and connecting other pin to ground for a second to see if it turns over.

I have a feeling based on the start in gear relay relationship with the neutral start relay that possibly the neutral start relay in the fuse box is toast, if you swap the 2 relays and test start it in neutral and in gear you might have success.
 
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#23 ·
Having continuity from the bars back doesn't negate the possibility of a chafed up wire on the frame rail. I chased my tail for days until I found a spot the "hockey tape" on the wiring harness was all worn out and frayed and inside was a wire just barely rubbed to copper that was dead shorting to the frame intermittently.

Your potential causal factors are fairly limited-
you aren't getting a solid enough connection to the solenoid to provide enough voltage to actuate it internally, (bad wiring)

your solenoid is dead,

relays in fuse box are toast (neutral and start in gear relays) swapping relays positions should be able to give a decent idea about this.

bad diode, bad button.

did you jumper over the handlebar switch at the bars? that's a pretty easy way to determine if it's still good.
 
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J
#24 ·
Thanks again Farrix!

I did determine that the handlebar switch (green button) is good.

I took your previouis advice of swapping relays and there was no difference.

I pretty much varified there is no chafing on the frame rail.

I'm thinking the solenoid is dead so I purchased a new one but won't be back on the farm to install for another couple of days.

I see the location of the starter solenoid but have no idea on what to disassemble to make the replacement?

If you have any ideas on how to accomplish this (without stripping to the frame), I would appreciate knowing.

Any of the videos I watched demonstrate solenoid replacement on a stripped down bike.

Many thanks,

Jerry
 
#25 ·
Is the solenoid on the right hand side of the airbox down by the frame infront of the fuse box, near the CDI, voltage regulator, etc in just an awful looking spot to get at??

I believe the 2005 has the same body/airbox style as mine. My solenoids been changed a few times since 2009, it's kind of ignorant but i've never stripped the bike.

I believe the last time I did it I removed the airbox from the carb with the boot from the frame, the side panel, I've never pulled the rear fender from my rig so that can stay in place. Depending on which style you have the solenoid is mounted to a little L shaped bracket thats bolted to the frame with 2 Torx bolts and 2 10mm nuts I unbolted the little L bracket then unbolted the solenoid from it and unplugged/unbolted the wiring, then re did everything, I've also left the bracket attached, came in from underneath with a torx screwdriver bit electrical taped into a 1/4" box end wrench and used a ratchet on the back to remove it.

It takes a bit of time, it hurts the hands and back, but it's doable, just go into it understanding it's going to take a bit of time and you'll come out the other side relatively unscathed.

You may need to buy a couple of super cheap 10mm wrenches before going there to be sacrificial. To keep the studs on the solenoid from spinning while removing the cables I had to make a thick 10mm wrench into a thin 10mm wrench. and change the jaw profile (squared the outside of the jaw off to fit behind the cable) a bit using a grinder. I'll post a picture of it if I can find the wrench, I painted it a difference color and put it in my specialty tools drawer.

I found the $3 wrench from princess auto/peavey mart/harbor freight/Can-Tire and a grinding wheel was the easiest way to manage not wrecking the new solenoid.
 
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#26 · (Edited)
This is what I had to do, I had to make the side profile as thin as the solenoid backup nut, and I had to change the outside of the jaw shape to fit in at whatever angle was convenient to stabilize the stud while tightening/loosening the cable.

I checked my toolbox and of course that's the wrench that's missing. I'm 90% sure it's 10mm and not 8mm. It will turn up in a week when I don't need it, It's painted bright red, and with my bright green tie rod wrench and my purple winch solenoid wrench lol.

I try to ensure I have a few spare cheap junk wrenches of each size around because when in need they become custom tools and I can leave my expensive set alone and looking fresh.
 

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J
#28 ·
Hi Farrix and 660catman!

Also, all the other folks who so kindly responded to try to help me!

I was sick for a few months and neglected to say a big "thank you" to everyone.

Ultimately, my problem was solved simply by replacing the solenoid which should've been my first clue. Instead, I investigated all other possibilities such as faulty switch, damaged wiring, etc.

Thanks to you Farrix, your detailed step-by-step instructions helped me locate and replace the starter solenoid and my Arctic Cat works again!

I really appreciate this forum and all those who participate by sharing their knowledge.

Many thanks again and I wish you all a very Merry Christmas & a Happy 2024 New Year!

Regards,

Jerry
 
#29 ·
@Jerry Schimpf Thank you so much for following up and letting us know you're operational! Sometimes, for me at least, it feels like people just disappear and we always wonder what the final answer was. I'm glad you were able to handle it and I'm glad you're feeling better. Merry Christmas and Happy 2024 to you and yours!

Play Safe! and if you have any other issues don't hesitate to shake the tree here and see what tidbits of knowledge can fall out.
 
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