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Discussion Starter #1
Working on the sled, noticed the coolent was down an inch or so, found coolent around the weap hole on the pump, again. Just had the pump rebuilt along with balancer shaft rebuild 2 years and 800 miles ago. Is it weaping from sitting or has the seal went bad again. Have not rode sled this year yet, should I top the coolent and watch it or rip it appart again? O yea, its a 99 zrt 800.
Thanks chairshot
 

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a master mechanic once told me on this issue that people who have rugular waterpump failure on these type of pumps is because they are using regular automotive antifreeze in the system. they have a special non silica formula for these type of pumps . I am only repeating what he told me
 

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Re-do it. Better safe than sorry. Cheaper too! And less down time overall.
 

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Did you put a new washer with the rubber molded to it on? It goes against the impellar and under the bolt that holds it. I put dish washing soap on the back of the impellar seal and the mechanical seal to lube it apon initial start up. Never know if you have an air pocket in there when you first start it.
 

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When you rebuild a water pump, you REPLACE EVERYTHING. If you try to "Cheap Charlie" it, it will come back and bite you in the a$$.
I guarantee it, I have seen several times
The only thing you reuse is the bolt and the small lock washer under the bolt.
You buy a new Impeller every time, a lot of time the "oval" inside the impeller gets worn out
and it has two much "side to side" play and it rocks on the shaft wearing the rubber off the washer
and it will leak this way. a new rubber washer that sets on top the impeller needs to be replaced
along with shaft seal and the mechanical seal.
If the shaft is pitted bad, this needs to be replaced also.

And you repeat this process every 3 years whether you need it or not on the big triples

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, looks like a busy day tearing into the cat. I changed everything last time, dont like to cut corners and have to redo things [didnt work out as planed].
Thanks for the input
 

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check that rubber pieace in there with the spring over it see if has a small hole in it. thats offen over looked. Make sure you replace the carbon and the teflon pieaces behind the impeller. You should be good to go like stated above. Last tip TRY NOT TOUCH the mating serface of the carbon and teflon parts the oils from your fingers can make it not seal right.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
snow800 hit it right on. impeller was loose and the rubber washer was worn out. Hard to believe this can wear out in 2 years but it did. Time to order some parts.
Thanks again
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (snofrog @ Dec 19 2009, 07:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
a master mechanic once told me on this issue that people who have rugular waterpump failure on these type of pumps is because they are using regular automotive antifreeze in the system. they have a special non silica formula for these type of pumps . I am only repeating what he told me[/b]
Do you know what brands are non-silica?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Arctic37 @ Dec 20 2009, 07:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (snofrog @ Dec 19 2009, 07:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
a master mechanic once told me on this issue that people who have rugular waterpump failure on these type of pumps is because they are using regular automotive antifreeze in the system. they have a special non silica formula for these type of pumps . I am only repeating what he told me[/b]
Do you know what brands are non-silica?
[/b][/quote]

heres a good artical . its not snowmobile specific but you will get the gist of it


http://pages.infinit.net/mcrides/engine_te...ine_coolant.htm
 
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