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ZR TORQUE ARM

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3.5K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  catracer343  
#1 ·
:huh: Just wondering if anyone out there has built their own torque arm...I would like to fab something up for my 02' zr8, they just seem too expensive for what's actualy there. If anyone has plans/prints or up close pics of one, or info on where, and how I should mount one, I would greatly appricate it!

Thanks for the help!
 
#2 ·
I have made one when I had my ZR900 and I have one made for my brother in laws 1010. The first one I made out of Cat quad Tie rod ends and sleve, just had to shorten sleve for shorter length. I believe on the 1010 I purchased a adj rod from Black Magic and made my own mounting which went from the L-Front engine mount, under the pipes and mounted to the frame above the shock tower. Buying the adj rod from BM was about the same price as two tie rods and sleve. When I mounted to the frame I also used a 1in piece of square tube aliminum to space the adjuster high enough off the frame. Its a really tight fit but it works and looks good. I will see if I can get some picks of the 1010 mounting and try and post some pics may take some time as I never posted pics before.
 
#3 ·
That would be awsome! :D To post pics all you need to do is type your reply and at the bottom of the box you will see browse and add this attachment. click on browse and select "my doccuments" or "my pics". Click on the picture(s) that you want to add and then click "add this attachment". Easy as 1,2,3! ;)
I was all :huh: I dunno the first time I tried, but it's quite simple after the first time... Not worthy: Thank you for your help! -Catracer
 
#6 ·
I wish somebody sold one for my sled. I'd rather buy one for $70 then waste a bunch of time trying to fab one up. Same thing with a harder durometer rear mount. If anyone knows where I can get a harder mount for the rear of my 440 motor please let me know.
 
#7 ·
Sno-Tec also sells the motor mounts as well as a "Monster Mount" for the twin engine I have just ordered one for a twin to try as this engine will soon have NOS as well be over 1000cc. This site Sno-Tec also sell a torque arm as well.
 
#8 ·
Originally posted by zr789@Nov 5 2005, 05:48 PM
.......and also hard motor mounts.
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Had 'em on the big-bore, sent them back. The sled will almost dance across the garage floor on its own and your hands will feel like you put in 8 hours with a jackhammer(and I've got an Iso-Vibe). Stick with good torque arms or maybe the Monstor and use soft mounts with it.
 
#10 ·
The belts have been holding up pretty well for the amount of abuse that I give them. I've just been noticing that this thing does an alligator death roll when I whack the flipper on my stand. Can't imagine what it looks like with me on it , launching on sticky clay! There has to be some power loss here that I would like to re-gain. I will check out the Sno-Tek arm, but I am still interested in fabbing my own.... It's just cooler! :D Thanks guys!
 
#11 ·
Just looked at an SLP. I may try to clone it. I just don't see $80.00(for the cheap ones) worth of parts there! I toss heim joints into my toolbox almost every month and need to use them up! (leftover parts at work) A poly. bushing is about $6-$8.00, so I figure that one could be made for about $15.00 my cost. -yes I am cheap!
 
#12 ·
I checked on my Bro in laws sled and he has the engine out and the torque arm removed now. Pics of it in the sled are out until re assembly. Basically though the arm would go pretty well straight from the L-FRT motor mount out to the LH front of the bulk head above the shock tower/upper control arm shaft which is where I mounted the square aliminum tube to the frame and then mounted the other end of the torque arm to the top of the square tube. It was a fairly simple design which worked quite well. It was a tight fit getting the mounting bolts between the upper control arm shaft and frame then mounting the torque arm to the tube but it can be done. I also had to make up some small spacers in order to get the proper fit on top of the motor mount (in order for the joint to pivot). These small spacers went through the bolt and were very small in width @1/16 in around the edge ie washer style. Good luck if I can help with explanation let me know.