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Put a new belt on for this year and it’s fine at cold start. I run it and it squeals when I stop. Lurches forward slightly and reverse won’t engage. Reverse sounds but won’t engage. I pulled the only washer out of the secondary clutch and it almost seems worse. Guess the belt is too tight? Not sure though. Any suggestions?
 

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It is recommended to wash the new belt in hot soapy water to clean mold release agents off of it. Clean clutch faces too. Make sure belt deflection is in spec.
 

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The factory secondary on these 9000’s is junk in my opinion. I switched to an STM


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The factory secondary on these 9000’s is junk in my opinion. I switched to an STM


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Are you talking 998 “9000 series” or the 1100? I’ve owned both... 13 1100T and my current 18 998. The 1100 clutches were a nightmare compared to the Team clutches on my new one.


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It is recommended to wash the new belt in hot soapy water to clean mold release agents off of it. Clean clutch faces too. Make sure belt deflection is in spec.
Today's snowmobile belts are made completely differently than 10 years ago. The mold release agents manufacturers used to use are not longer used. I've talked to Gates, Dayco, amd Timken and they all tell me do NOT wash or otherwise clean today's belts. Clutches should be cleaned with acetone (NOT brake cleaner). ALWAYS break belts in (easy running for about 25 miles and at least 2 heat cycles) and warm them up before putting allot of power through them.
 

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Are you talking 998 “9000 series” or the 1100? I’ve owned both... 13 1100T and my current 18 998. The 1100 clutches were a nightmare compared to the Team clutches on my new one.


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The 998, and the team clutches aren’t much better. My 9000 smoked a belt coming off the trailer when the dealer was dropping it off. It had 2 miles on it. We had nothing but issues from the start. I ended up going back to a torsional secondary and solving my issues. My uncle even went as far as getting an STM primary for his 9000..


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Don't know what to say. I have a '17 ZR9000 Ltd with a 280HP tune since day 1. The sled now has 4,000+ miles on it. I have 192 StudBoy 1.63" Lake Racer carbide studs on it. 21/38 gear. Runs great!
My clutches are both the stock Team clutches (with proper changes for 280HP). After over 4000 miles, both are in "like-new" condition. No worn rollers or bushings, no play in primary spider, no rollers worn or loose in stock secondary. I think the Team clutches are great based on my experience. If yours are failing, or you're "blowing" belts with 2 miles, I suggest something is wrong with either your setup or your operation of the sled. For example, when I am going to load or unload my sled, I always put my stand under it and run the track/belt some to warm them up and make sure the track isn't frozen to the ground. I always warm my belt up before driving my sled. I have the official Team alignment gage to make sure the offset is exactly correct. I always break belts in properly. I always warm the belt up to normal operating temp before pulling the trigger on 280HP.
My stock Team clutches run flawless at 280HP! They are bullet proof. My sled has been radared at 133 MPH and my clutches and belt are like new.
 

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Don't know what to say. I have a '17 ZR9000 Ltd with a 280HP tune since day 1. The sled now has 4,000+ miles on it. I have 192 StudBoy 1.63" Lake Racer carbide studs on it. 21/38 gear. Runs great!
My clutches are both the stock Team clutches (with proper changes for 280HP). After over 4000 miles, both are in "like-new" condition. No worn rollers or bushings, no play in primary spider, no rollers worn or loose in stock secondary. I think the Team clutches are great based on my experience. If yours are failing, or you're "blowing" belts with 2 miles, I suggest something is wrong with either your setup or your operation of the sled. For example, when I am going to load or unload my sled, I always put my stand under it and run the track/belt some to warm them up and make sure the track isn't frozen to the ground. I always warm my belt up before driving my sled. I have the official Team alignment gage to make sure the offset is exactly correct. I always break belts in properly. I always warm the belt up to normal operating temp before pulling the trigger on 280HP.
My stock Team clutches run flawless at 280HP! They are bullet proof. My sled has been radared at 133 MPH and my clutches and belt are like new.
Agree 100%! I have the TD trail/race bundle.. 250 all the way up to 300+ on race gas mix. Only clutch upgrades are the dalton adjustable weights in the primary. 1.75 backcountry track fully studded .. never blown a belt... clutches look brand new after 2000 miles (and I’m not easy on it one bit).


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Don't know what to say. I have a '17 ZR9000 Ltd with a 280HP tune since day 1. The sled now has 4,000+ miles on it. I have 192 StudBoy 1.63" Lake Racer carbide studs on it. 21/38 gear. Runs great!
My clutches are both the stock Team clutches (with proper changes for 280HP). After over 4000 miles, both are in "like-new" condition. No worn rollers or bushings, no play in primary spider, no rollers worn or loose in stock secondary. I think the Team clutches are great based on my experience. If yours are failing, or you're "blowing" belts with 2 miles, I suggest something is wrong with either your setup or your operation of the sled. For example, when I am going to load or unload my sled, I always put my stand under it and run the track/belt some to warm them up and make sure the track isn't frozen to the ground. I always warm my belt up before driving my sled. I have the official Team alignment gage to make sure the offset is exactly correct. I always break belts in properly. I always warm the belt up to normal operating temp before pulling the trigger on 280HP.
My stock Team clutches run flawless at 280HP! They are bullet proof. My sled has been radared at 133 MPH and my clutches and belt are like new.
Dealer set the sled up, I have a TD Max 17 on my sled. Aluminum charge tubes, CAI, MBRP race muffler, with 192 studs (1.875”), after the dealer attempted to fix the sled it still never back shifted properly. The STM secondary fixed that. It wasn’t anything that I had done, as I never had possession of the sled. My uncle’s did the same easing out of the garage with 75 miles on it. He called D&D who did his tune, and they recommended the torsional secondary. We ordered a couple of them up and problem solved....


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