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Discussion Starter #1
Is it possilble to change these whithout removing the whole skid since they are connected to the front shock?
 

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If you slide the bolt out and have a metal shaft or something to slide into place from the other side it's doable.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was always taught that if a wheel was wobbly when you wiggled it, it most likely meant the bearing was bad. Now on my ZL, it seems as if the front inside idlers have been wobbly since the day I bought it in 2002. Whenever I've asked a dealer to check out rear suspension and repair as necessary, I've always been told those idlers were fine. I have two questions:

#1. Is this typical for these idlers?
#2. If it is, how do you know when the bearings are shot?

I appreciate any input. Thanks.
 

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thats y i dont like dealers and they shouldn't be wobbly maybe at most alittle tiny bit of play. roll the wheels back and forth and see if they feel like they have grit in them or if they are hard to roll if so then they are probably bad
 

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I would agree that they should not be wobling much at all. Most of the time you can tell just by the sound. You can try and change them with the skid in, but its much easier with it out in the open. You will probably spend as much time trying to work under the sled as it would take to remove the skid. That and you can get a good look at everything else when its out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input. A few years ago I had the holes in the slide rail become egg shaped and I figured it was because of bad idlers, but I was told it was due to the rear bolt/staft that secures to the tunnel going bad, ultimately causing the rear end to be running out of alignment. My question is,

#1. If the bearings are shot on the front idlers (or any of the idlers for that matter) could they cause the rails to go egg shaped?

#2. Has anyone had luck welding up the rails and redrilling? Tried this option a few years ago and the welds just cracked. (Probably due to craftmanship.)

Thanks again for your guys's help and input. It is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I got the courage to pull the skid out and check these idlers (thanks for the instructions, arcticchat) and found that the bearings are in good shape. There is just alot of slop between the washers, wheel, shock arm bracket and spacers that's causing all the extra play. I know that there has been the slop in there for at least the last few years. Can the spacers wear down (only thing I can think of unless it comes from the factory this way)? I have new spacers coming from the dealer to swap. Assuming that the spacers have not worn down, should I basicly just add washers until the slop is gone?

Also, in the learning process of tearing into the skid, I broke the front arm bushing (#3 on the "Rear Suspension Front Arm Assembly" Diagram). Before I break anything else, does anyone know if this piece threads into the front arm or does it just push in? I'm trying to pull the old one out and it is very tight.

Any help would be appreciated. :sos: It looks like the snow will be coming this week!
 
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