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Hi,
I have a 2010 Z1 1100 Turbo LXR with 4,200 miles. I have an oil leak as well...... I'm currently doing all my spring maintenance. Changed the oil, replaced o-ring and washer on both drain plugs. I'd like to add, I torque everything to spec....... always.
I noticed the same situation as yours, in the exact same place, although I found the problem. The oil bolt on the right side with the spring/screen filter is leaking. As I stated, I replaced the o-ring with a new one during the change and torqued at the 16 ft. pounds per spec. Had to drain the new oil and remove, inspect the drain plug bolt, pan and o-ring in which all looked good. I went as far as re-using the old o-ring which failed as well. Now, I have drained my new oil out twice. All I can say is that when I do tighten the drain plug bolt it bottoms out completely. The drain plug bolt flange does'nt appear to be warped/bent in any way and the pan is clean as a whistle.
Wish I had an answer for you, but this just happened to me today. I may order a new drain plug bolt and o-ring to start with, but I simply can't believe that's it. Maybe an oversized o-ring or flat gasket material could be the fix. Something's up.......... I'm getting ready to place a post on this matter. Pull your plastic plug of and see if your dripping at the bolt, that's how I found mine. Good luck, Ray
 

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Hi,
It took some doing, but I found the leak. After looking things over once again, I felt that it must be something else. Since the belly pan is both rivited and bolted I decided to dig into the situation from the right side. I couldn't really determine where the leak was coming from due to not being able to get a good look at it. I removed the exhaust assembly & resonator to reach the oil tank. The oil tank had to be removed in order to look at the base. Once removed, I refilled the tank with oil and there it was..... I found a crack at the base of the tank where the neck down tube begins. Of course, AC doesn't sell just the tank and if they did it would be in the $200.00 range before hoses. Tomorrow I'm going to check on having it heliarced around the perimeter of the neck. Removal of the exhaust springs were the worst part of the job, but not bad. I think placing them back will be a little tougher. Reason for being cracked? Your guess is as good as mine. More than likely due to vibration since the tank is on the thin side. I might add, these tanks are molded into one piece. In my opinion this crack happened at the weakest point in which there are a couple (between hose necks and body). Oh by the way, I found an extra steel exhaust gasket in the belly pan... not surprised. Ray
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ray,
Thanks for the info. I wiped tho oil out of the pan and the sled has just sat in the garage for a month. It doesn't seem to be leaking just sitting there. Maybe my leak is so small yet it only occurs when hot. I see there is a new part number for the tank kit. Wonder if AC changed the design? Of course even if they found a design flaw and changed it I doubt if they will will put out a repair bulletin or help us owners with getting it fixed. Tom
 

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Hi,
Glad to hear that you may not have a problem. I had the perimeter around the neck heliarced for $40.00. Got everything back together and all is well. Worst part of the job was the exhaust springs, but not to bad. Have a great holiday, Ray thumbguy
 

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Hi,
Not good.... If I were you, I would remove the exhaust resonator along with the oil tank as I did. Once the tank is removed you are able to observe quite a few hose connections as well as the tank. The job really isn't that bad. As a precaution, be sure to cover all open areas with a towel when re-installing the springs. If one slips, the towel will help it from getting lost somewhere below the engine. Good luck and let me now what you found......... Ray
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Ray,
Pulled the exhaust and oil tank off today. Tank looks good as well as all of the hose connections. Shining a light around it looked like there was oil on one of the wiring conduits at the rear of the engine. Seeing that and only getting it to leak when riding leaves me to believe it's probably the valve cover. Would you agree? FYI: I put a set of Simmons Gen 3 skis on last fall, that was a very good move. They work great both on and off trail.
Tom
 

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Hi,
Wow! Nice job on the screwdriver. I'll have to make me one. Too bad you didn't find the leak at one of your hoses. I've heard that getting at the top half of the engine on these is no picnic. I would assume that the leak is at the valve cover. I still haven't found a good service manual showing how to get to the spark plugs for a change. I've heard that the seat and tank has to be removed along with the pod. Sounds time consuming, but I'm sure it all can be done without paying a dealer to perform the work. Please keep me informed on your fix. Thanks, Ray
 

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Hi,
Wow! Nice job on the screwdriver. I'll have to make me one. Too bad you didn't find the leak at one of your hoses. I've heard that getting at the top half of the engine on these is no picnic. I would assume that the leak is at the valve cover. I still haven't found a good service manual showing how to get to the spark plugs for a change. I've heard that the seat and tank has to be removed along with the pod. Sounds time consuming, but I'm sure it all can be done without paying a dealer to perform the work. Please keep me informed on your fix. Thanks, Ray
Send me a PM and I will try to help you out
 

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I believe this is happening on my 07 Z1. Found the puddle under the right side after storing for the summer. Removed the exhaust and examined the oil tank itself. Looks like there is oil seeping through the tank along a hair line fracture.
If it is a 07 it is a Jag NA as the Z I believe did not come out till later.
Can't see the crack
 
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