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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up an 03 400 4x4 automatic FIS a few years ago with 300 miles on it, and known problems. Would go to intermittent no spark, complete and instant shut down, and then sometimes restart right away, other times took a while. When it ran, it would cut out, backfire, etc. Research says classic flywheel magnet problem, right?

So, best intentions of getting it running right away got delayed by a few years by a blown out back, but yesterday I was able to get on the project.

Verified no spark now, pulled the cover and verified the magnets are the original, glued in, but all still solidly glued in, correct spacing, etc.

So, now what? I'm convinced that even though they look ok, replacement of the flywheel is prudent at this point, but since I'm in there - just the flywheel or go with the whole package from RMSTATOR - flywheel, stator, voltage regulator now, vs opening it up again wishing I had done the whole package?

Also, troubleshooting from here? With the case open? What's the next step in determining the actual cause of the no spark?

Thanks!
Greg
 

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Could be chafed wiring, coil acting up, spark plug wire/boot. I’ve only heard stators going when magnets take it out. If magnets are intact it’s up to you whether you change the flywheel or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
looks like the pickup coil is bad. Found a reference that says the coil should read 200Ω ± 20% between blue and green leads. Mine reads 43Ω.
 

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with work and vacation, not much getting done quickly on this ATV. Ordered the flywheel, stator and regulator kit from RMSTATOR, since I don't want to open this up again because the magnets came off the OEM flywheel.

The parts arrived the day before we took off to Alaska, cruised the inside passage, ate too much, fished too little (brought home some halibut, rockfish and salmon) but a great trip.

So now, flywheel, stator and regulator replaced (note in the first post that so far, all I've found truly faulty is the pickup coil).

Gas line was brittle and cracked at the shutoff petcock (explained why my garage stunk like bad gas). I guess when I first tried to start it, I turned the gas valve on and forgot to turn it off.

Pulled the carb off because the gas stinks and guaranteed the carb is gunked up ... and yep, it surely was. All the jets clogged, diaphragm pin coated with varnish so bad that it wouldn't slide... got that all cleaned up and reassembled.

New gas line purchased and ready to install, but first I pulled the tank off to get rid of the old gas, removed the shutoff valve to clean and it's gunked up solid, the filter/strainer and plastic stand off lines are disintegrated. Even though I got the gunk cleaned up, I found a replacement valve for reasonable $ and just ordered it.

Apparently the original gas gauge came apart in the tank, as there was an extra yellow float bouncing around in the tank. Got it fished out and contemplating super glue on the cracked fuel gauge lens or spending $55 for a new gauge.

Discovered the shop that I initially had troubleshoot the no start condition unplugged the coil and left the connectors off (different post), which leaves me with a 50/50 guess as to which wire goes on which post. One blade post is slightly wider than the other, but the connectors are the same size so no help there. So, I'm left to assume "doesn't matter which post is hot and which is ground?"

So, once again, waiting on parts, but as soon as I get the fuel shutoff valve, I think I'm actually ready to try to start it. Oh yeah, I suppose I ought to put some oil in the crankcase first...

Greg
 

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Shut off valve received (cheap one from Amazon doesn’t fit the knob snug enough so instead of epoxying the knob, I ordered the right one).

Started with starter fluid, idled for a bit then carb flooded. I was pretty sure I didn’t get it completely clean (it was heavily varnished) but hoped for a miracle.

Found a Chinese clone replacement on Amazon and ordered this morning. Will throw the old one in the ultrasonic cleaner some day and see if I can revive it.

Also tried to polish the lens on the gas gauge but it was so brittle it broke into 4 pieces. $58 for replacement seems ridiculous but I’m tired of spending hours trying to pull off redneck fixes to save a few bucks. So, ordered a new gauge as well. Another part to go to the someday pile (that honestly will remain untouched).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It starts, it idles, a little boggy on throttle opening to research but ... it’s alive again.

So, coil pickup actually bad causing the no-spark. Replaced.

Flywheel magnets still solid but stories of them coming apart prompted new flywheel. Stator replaced with the flywheel as a preventative peace of mind fix.

Carb was really rough and my basic cleaning failed. Replaced with a cheap amazon Chinese knockoff. Ultrasonic cleaner should succeed it getting this one running again.

Fuel lines replaced.

Fuel shutoff replaced.

Fuel gauge replaced.

Test ride tomorrow.
 

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Could be chafed wiring, coil acting up, spark plug wire/boot. I’ve only heard stators going when magnets take it out. If magnets are intact it’s up to you whether you change the flywheel or not.
I picked up an 03 400 4x4 automatic FIS a few years ago with 300 miles on it, and known problems. Would go to intermittent no spark, complete and instant shut down, and then sometimes restart right away, other times took a while. When it ran, it would cut out, backfire, etc. Research says classic flywheel magnet problem, right?

So, best intentions of getting it running right away got delayed by a few years by a blown out back, but yesterday I was able to get on the project.

Verified no spark now, pulled the cover and verified the magnets are the original, glued in, but all still solidly glued in, correct spacing, etc.

So, now what? I'm convinced that even though they look ok, replacement of the flywheel is prudent at this point, but since I'm in there - just the flywheel or go with the whole package from RMSTATOR - flywheel, stator, voltage regulator now, vs opening it up again wishing I had done the whole package?

Also, troubleshooting from here? With the case open? What's the next step in determining the actual cause of the no spark?

Thanks!
Greg
I had a problem with mine. I had a mouse chew the wires as the come out of the housing right at the rubber block that seals the housing. I would take a close look.
 
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