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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I've searched on this for more than an hour without luck which leads me to believe there is no good answer but here goes.

Are there any tricks to working on a ctec2 in a procross chassis?

I have a zr8000 and would like to replace the reed valves and clean the exhaust valves.
The reed valves are a major PITA without totally dismantling the front end.
The exhaust valves seem to require major surgery to access the pto cylinder side valve pin.
I would have to drill out rivets and remove braces and panels to get better access, is it worth it vs struggling with odd positions and a ratchet clicking 1 click at a time?

Am I missing something - what do you do differently?

Thanks!
 

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Yikes! You have to take the cylinders off to clean the exhaust valves now???? Glad I only have a 600. As long as you don’t strip the bolt that holds the valve to the cylinder..... don’t ask! Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #4
well then I will keep dismantling the front end. Im in too deep to turn back now on the reeds at least. how often do the powervalves need doing? using ctec2 oil.
361930
 

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Discussion Starter #5
by the way, I have read about reeds going bad within 1500 miles. at 3000 miles i see no signs of any issues on these. replacing anyway with oem
361931
 

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Cat really phuk’d over the avg non-professional “wrench” when they created that chassis. 👎🏻

To wrench on one without some highly “efficient” ratcheting tools and wrench’s can be a real PITA

Try removing broken starter motor mount bracket bolts sometime, followed by tapping the holes afterwards.... 😉
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hey c-note the starter motor is barely even visible underneath the mess of intake stuff, so I will start praying hard that mine never craps out. what kind of "efficient" ratcheting tools are you talking about? sounds like i need them.
 

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I was pissed my sled came with estart. I am sure my battery will crap out soon and I will end up rope starting it anyway
 

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hey c-note the starter motor is barely even visible underneath the mess of intake stuff, so I will start praying hard that mine never craps out. what kind of "efficient" ratcheting tools are you talking about? sounds like i need them.
Fine (90T) ratchet(s) and use a stud remover/installer to fit/grip the shank of a tap, should you need to do something as such. You can use an open ended wrench to turn the socket with, while only needing the sockets “height” clearance, versus a T-handle to turn tap with

An inch and a half is a lot more achievable clearance versus over 3” (plus) for a combo of T-handle and tap.. 😉
 

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No you do not have to take the cylinders off. To
Yikes! You have to take the cylinders off to clean the exhaust valves now???? Glad I only have a 600. As long as you don’t strip the bolt that holds the valve to the cylinder..... don’t ask! Lol
You can do 90% of the cleaning with the cylinders left on. Just the inside, side valves are not accessible, but should not be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No you do not have to take the cylinders off. To

You can do 90% of the cleaning with the cylinders left on. Just the inside, side valves are not accessible, but should not be an issue.
really? that would be sweet. a video I saw showed a pin running from what looks like one side valve to the other through the main exh valve, looks like it needs to be removed in order to take the main valve out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
361948

ya the pto side is right up against a bracket and to take it off you need to remove the clutches and belt guard, drill out rivets, etc.
 
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