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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This morning, just as I finished the last of my plowing, my winch cable snapped. It broke right at the crimp that forms the loop at the end. I can't complain about the timing as I had three driveways to do and got it all done before it happened!

Now I know this is a total newbie question but I have to ask. How do I fix this? I can get the cable back out of the winch, but where do I get new crimp clamps to re-form the loop and what do I crimp it on with? Or can I use the U-bolt type cable clamps to make the connection? I was thinking they might be easier as it would make it easier to field repair this if it happens again.
 

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I have broken a cable before. I used 3 of those small u-bolt clamps to repair the cable. I made a loop at the end, put the hook on, and put the clamps on the cable to hold it in place. Works fine. Be sure to put the clamps in the correct position so that the winch will still be able to roll back up all the way and not have the hook hanging down 5 or 6".
 

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I've used those lots and if you break it again then it is a quick fix. Two should do you just fine but remember to put the "U" end over top of the cut end of the cable. That is how we clamp larger cables for our boom truck winch, it'll hold better that way. :beer_cheers:
 

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I used the little U bolts with success. What I did was form the loop and cinch it down with one of the U Bolts. Then, I take the remaining "tail" and double it back and take another U Bolt and cinch it down again. Essentially, I form an "S" with the end of the cable.
 

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or you could upgrade to the synthetic.
 

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I'm with Deano. I answered the question that was asked, but if you can spring the little more dough, I'd get a new synthetic. No fraying steel to nip your hand, no "whip" effect if she snaps...all good.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Sanny651 @ Feb 15 2007, 07:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I'm with Deano. I answered the question that was asked, but if you can spring the little more dough, I'd get a new synthetic. No fraying steel to nip your hand, no "whip" effect if she snaps...all good.[/b]

Your hands will thank you! Plus it is stronger than steel. Plus it doesn't kink. Plus it comes in different colors. plus it... :tongue_nana:
 

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Fix your winch cable or get a synthetic one. Either way, don't use your winch cable for plowing. Save it for the necessary pulls when you're out on the rides.

Just a suggestion... Use a 1" strap.

For plowing I use a 12' length of 1" strap. I bought a set of ratchet tie-down straps... The straps were 20' but I only needed about 6', so I kept 8' and cut off 12'.

Only 12' on the spool means the winch runs at optimum ratio... When a spool is full, it's like turning a larger gear. That's why a 2500 pound winch is not 2500 pounds capacity until it's on the lower windings in the spool.

:chug:
 

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Sounds like your making a trip to Edmund's! :tongue_nana: I absolutley SWAMPED mine tonight pushing back some snow piles behind the house. Thought I was going to have to cut down some trees to get er' out! I had a nice "ramp" up and over a small brush pile and every thing was going good, untill the packed snow gave out. She dropped right onto the frame (half tipped over sideways), plow wedged in, and snow 6 inches over the top of my 28's! It took over an hour along with a 2,000# come-along and my chainsaw to get the ol' girl out! I will sleep well tonight!-Craig
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Sanny651 @ Feb 16 2007, 08:46 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
ouch craig! Maybe you need those Cat Tracks? :)

AG, how do you attach that strap to the drum of the winch?[/b]
It's a 1" strap, I fold it lengthways to fit through the hole in the spool just as a regular wire rope would. Then I tie a greanny knot with about 1" of strap left after the knot. Then stuff that knot and 1" of strap into the widened part of the spool, then pull the strap from the other side to tighten it up inside the spool's slot.

Works perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (catracer343 @ Feb 15 2007, 08:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Sounds like your making a trip to Edmund's! :tongue_nana:[/b]

LOL!!! I did just that this morning, that's a great store! thumbguy I drove my kids to school so they wouldn't have to wait in the cold at the bus stop then off to see the Edmunds gang. I bought the U bolts but now I like the synthetic idea better. That cable is a [email protected] to handle in the cold.

What's the best source for the synthetic cable?

Craig, I also swamped mine but good during the storm. I was helping out a neighbor plowing his driveway and didn't realize he had a steep drop off on one side. I rammed the snowbank to puSh it back and went right down it. We had to use his truck to pull me out with my recovery strap. bang your head
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Another question, do I need to change anything in my winch setup to switchj to synthetic? I have a roller fairlead already.
 

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You can use your roller fairlead, but if it has ANY knicks in it, I'd replace it with a HAWSE fairlead. Otherwise, it acts like a knife on your rope.
 

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Any boat shop that specializes in sailboat repair will have a crimper tool and thimbles to create a new loop in the end of your steel cable. They have to do this all the time for the standing rigging on sailboats.

Shouldn't cost you much.

stellarpod
 

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there are a couple of ways to splice an eye into the end of the wire. we do it all the time here at work, but if i tried to explain it to you on here I'd have you so confused it wouldn't even be funny.
if you use the cable clamps remember to the u-bolts on the bitter end (the tail) and the saddle on the lead. to remember this, you don't saddle a dead horse. and keep an eye on the clamps cause they can slip down the wire and pinch off the eye.

another tip; after you get the eye made put a load on it and get it as tight as possible without the clamps slipping then tighten up the clamps. the reason for this is the wire gets skinnier when it is stretched causing the clamps to loosen.

i hope this wasn't too confusing.

btw, safest bet would be the synthetic, imo
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, what a mess that turned out to be!

I got the end of the cable out of the winch then decided to check the cable's general condition. It was a freakin' rat's nest!

I had to cut off about 20' of cable to get rid of all the kinks. I am definitely ordering a synthetic and a backup spare.

I got it fixed for now so I can keep using the plow as needed, used the cable clamps with good results.

Can anyone recommend a good source for the synthetic cable? Me fairlead is in good shape so I think I'm okay there.
 

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I just replaced my cable with the synthetic rope. You have to do a few things. First make sure that you have the winch with the aluminum drum. For some reason warn states that you have to have the aluminum instead of the steel. Just put a magnet to it to see. Then they recommend to replace the roller head. I contacted warn and they recommend the roller head instead of the hawse head. This is for the simple reason of making sure there are not burrs or sharp edges. Plus it gives your winch a new look again. I found a kit at http://www.montanajacks.com/index.asp?Page...mp;Category=237 for $88.00 plus shipping for the 2500 lb. Ebay sells them for around $125.00. Some of them from ebay are not warn originals. This kit is a warn product. A great upgrade.

Then I put a "winch saver" on mine for snugging the clevis hook up instead of pulling it to the side. I got these off of ebay. Go to ebay motors>parts & accessories>atv parts>winches and then type in winch saver on the search area.

Good luck.
 
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