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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you look in my sig you will see what my bike is and what I have done to it. I am wanting to clutch it but I am not sure which route to go. Initially I was just going to get the EPI springs or the Highlifter kit which from what I have been told uses EPI components, but I have talked to EPI and they recommend there Sport Utility Pro clutch kit(pt #WE490685) which is designed for trail and mud as well as 27"-28" tires and aftermarket ignition. They told me it will come with one primary that will have about 100rpms more stall than stock and one that will have 500rpms more than stock. I am assuming that more stall will mean harder hook-up (easier wheelies). I do about 75% trail and about 25%mud right now but I will soon be going to some offroad parks(Mud Nats maybe?)and I know I will be doing about 50% mud and 50%trail so I need something that will be good for the occasional peanut-butter mud but still let me run 65mph. Also which belt do yall recommend, stock, Highlifter, reg. Dayco??? I am going to replace it when I do the clutch kit. Do I need the $80.00 compression tool or the $35.00 primary clutch puller, or can I make my own?

Sorry for the ridicously long post, and I know this stuff has been hit on 1 too many times but if any of you guys have used any of these components or have opinions it would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Just my feelings but I would go with what EPI reccomends, they have been selling kits for along time and know their stuff. More stall means you must press the throttle more before the clutch will lock onto the belt, I have the EPI setup in our 400 and it has the +100 and works great but we run 26" tires. If you plan on serious mudding, try asking the guys on the highlifter forum, they are bunches of the most serious mudders there and they could tell you what works best, just remember the higher the stall the harder it launches this is really not a good thing for trail riding if you need to be gentle on the gas.
 

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You will need to buy the clutch puller. The compression tool you can make for $6 and a trip to Home Depot.

As for the stall rate, you nailed it. Higher stall rate will increase the ability to wheelie. However, keep in mind that when you start clutching your quad for mud and such, you'll start losing top end. There's not a setup that I've read about that will give you gobs of low end plus maintain your top end. I'm not saying you'll top out at 30mph, but be prepared to lose more top end as you gain more low end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok thanx guys, being gentle on the gas is not in my vocabulary so I think I am am gonna go with what EPI recommends. Stall should be a good thing for trail or mud right?

Sanny are we talking around a 10mph top-end loss or what? Which belt do you believe in?
 

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why dont you just go with the heelclicker clutch kit. 2wice as good as epi and you will see no top end reduce either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well for one thing I have nevr heard of the "heelclicker kit" and another was that EPI was the only kit that I have seen that compensates for the raised ignition timing of an aftermarket CDI. Where can I get info for the heelclicker

P.S.-650BOY I couldn't help but notice that you have the EPI kit but modified, whats that all about?
 

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well i didnt change the spring but took apart the primary last year and i didn't need a puller, i might have just got lucky. here is a picture of a homemade spring compressor, i used on my secondary to change to a black spring.
 

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Im in the market for something also. Is there an easy way to just get a little more snap at the low and mid range? Mabey just a spring?And what site sells them?
 

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The modified epi clutch kit is junk. Im getting a heelclicker clutch kit in the next month or two. A friend of mine has the heelclicker clutch kit and the epi clutch kit and he said that the epi clutch kit is where your probem begins. They smoke belts way to fast,heelclickers dont. And also if your into the speed the epi will slow you 10 miles on the top end and the heelcicker doesnt. And another thing is that the clutch weights of the heelclicker you can adjust right there. If you want more top end you can adjust them to that. And yes like gunrunner said always run a brute force belt. Ill get the website later.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (V2RIDER @ Jan 19 2007, 04:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Im in the market for something also. Is there an easy way to just get a little more snap at the low and mid range? Mabey just a spring?And what site sells them?[/b]
I'm pretty happy with the dalton clutch springs in mine. I got it from The Outdoor shop. Site sponser to your right on top. Good price for an all around good clutch. I tried the Dayco belt. Junk. Now I use the AC/Kawi belt. Since the clutch, I haven't lost a belt yet. I am thinking of using a BF belt next.
 

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In my sig. you can see what i did. pink, black springs. on the v2 you dont need anything else. You can just buy the springs. and put them in I didnt take me that long. And i feel it made a big diff. Top end speed only droped approx. 4-6 mph. I can still go 55-58 mph. in high range.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (650boy @ Jan 19 2007, 06:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
The modified epi clutch kit is junk. Im getting a heelclicker clutch kit in the next month or two. A friend of mine has the heelclicker clutch kit and the epi clutch kit and he said that the epi clutch kit is where your probem begins. They smoke belts way to fast,heelclickers dont. And also if your into the speed the epi will slow you 10 miles on the top end and the heelcicker doesnt. And another thing is that the clutch weights of the heelclicker you can adjust right there. If you want more top end you can adjust them to that. And yes like gunrunner said always run a brute force belt. Ill get the website later.[/b]

Does the heelclicker clutch kit make a kit for 400 auto's? I want to pull trees and mud mine. I don't want to work my clutch too hard.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (650boy @ Jan 19 2007, 04:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
The modified epi clutch kit is junk. Im getting a heelclicker clutch kit in the next month or two. A friend of mine has the heelclicker clutch kit and the epi clutch kit and he said that the epi clutch kit is where your probem begins. They smoke belts way to fast,heelclickers dont. And also if your into the speed the epi will slow you 10 miles on the top end and the heelcicker doesnt. And another thing is that the clutch weights of the heelclicker you can adjust right there. If you want more top end you can adjust them to that. And yes like gunrunner said always run a brute force belt. Ill get the website later.[/b]
I have some doubts about some of those comments. Lots of guys run EPI springs, myself included. Without issues. I also had Dalton springs, without issues.

Smoking the belt is usually due to improper spec, and/or rider error. Too much gas, not enough brains.

You buddy doesn't ride a poo does he? The only kit I seen was for the polaris. Post up the link if you can. I would be interested in reading about it, anyway.

:beer_cheers:

Later
Molsondrinkr
 

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Below is the thread with the beginner questions I had. You may be above that, but might help you out some. I went with the EPI Almond Primary and Black secondary. The almond raised the rpms up by 200 before belt engagement. So far I really like the setup. There's no hesitation when the belt engages. It's made a difference in pulling, but I haven't got out to run it through any mud at this point. I also adjusted the belt deflection by removing one shim. Personally, I wouldn't want to run the rpm's up much higher before engagement, but that's just me. I only have stock tires for now. If you have larger tires the red primary raises the engagement up 500 rpm's. I believe this is what is in there big tire kit, but not positive.


http://www.arcticchat.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59460


Jake
 
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