I agree with all your above suggestion, but as for the fuse box, another good logical location would be next to the battery IMO, like so many other things have it,(ATv's Motorcycles and such)
I should have said on the 7000 as the 9000 has it mounted on the clutch guard. I am not a fan of that as it could be destroyed if you shred a belt. I would be happy with just some place out of harms way and easy to get at.I agree with all your above suggestion, but as for the fuse box, another good logical location would be next to the battery IMO, like so many other things have it,(ATv's Motorcycles and such)
sorry AL, your not making me feel so great about upgrading here LOLI can also say you guys should not be using two piece molded together coolant tanks on on any models let alone the 1100 4 stroke models as the seams let go. What a piss poor design. They crack and leave you stranded and are a royal PIA to replace. Arctic cat use to build Quality sleds. Now days IMO they build sleds to get out of warranty and that's it. Well you might make the mighty dollar once but it wont happen again with POS sleds like this!!! I am a Die Hard Cat guy but I have about had it with your new sleds. Ride them a 1000 miles and replace 1/2 the components because you dont care about quality!!! Sorry for the rant but at this point I am Pissed. Every time I turn around I am working on these things. I didn't spend 30K to wrench on them every 1000 miles!!!
Stan, For the price of these sleds there should be some quality built in. If they cant do it we will read about them going bankrupt before long because people will not continue to pay 15K + on a sled to work on constantly. Would you buy a 15K car and expect to take it to the dealer every 1000 miles for repairs??? Hell no, that is why they made the Lemon law!!! It dont help that every thing is sourced out to the cheapest bidder either!! My 96 Zrt has had a better track record in 11,000 + miles than the new sleds in under 2000 miles.sorry AL, your not making me feel so great about upgrading here LOL
but I agree, almost everything made to day is NOT made with long life in the cards, its a disposable world we live in n ow more than ever, guess it pays to buy them extended warranty's
I know Yamaha's have a 5 yr one, not sure if miles are involved in things or not, but sure makes me wish I had a warranty now!
I did see on that link I sent you, they have folks on the yamaha site that move there viper fuse boxes and seem happy with it
I am going to look more at mine when ever I get my hood off and see *sled is still covered in ice covering screws on me)
if there is room to move so access can be had with hood still on I think I might move mine, and then see if I can find a good stronger cover to help protect it if a belt comes apart/off! they say with cover being fixed, when mounted on top its protected, but I still see weak links in that alone idea!, but a small maybe aluminum cover that bolts on/lifts off over fuses shouldn;'t be that hard to make? bolt from bottom up so heads are up high away from belt area and then some speed wing nuts maybe to hold cover over fuses?
wish it was summer time so I wouldn;t feel bad about screwing with a sled in snow seasons?
just never thought about the fuse box till I blew a darn fuse on the trail and lost dash and brake lights, a safety issue NOT being able to fix trail side without major disassemble, piss poor design for sure IMO too!
I think its made this way so many folks will just TAKE to a dealer to fix, and then they can make money off you that way, over you fixing a simple thing yourself!
its all about $$, not quality or reputation for making GOOD long lasting products these days
all marketing to make you open wallets, and buy and then find out what crap you bought, and then sell you something else and repeat!
you need to figure out how to get one of these 800-900-1000 triple motor into a new chassis, bare bones electrical crap, manual reverse, and well, I'd still like electric start however LOL
and I;'m in on one again! as I bet a lot of others here would be
Looks like you haven't been to a dealer, or sled show in 2 or 3 years as almost everything you are bitching about was taken care of already, with the redesigned genII body workFor starters you can add a couple chain case drain & fill plugs. Having to tear the sled into pieces just to change the chain case oil is Nuts!!! Speaking of chain cases, Having a second chain with out a tensioner on the chain is just asking for problems. I am also in favor of a mechanical reverse VS these electric motors that leave you stranded between gears.
How about moving the oil tank so you can get at the chain case with out draining all the engine oil.
You need to put the fuse block some where that is easy to get at with out having to unbolt parts to get at it. A good place would be in front the handle bars under the google bag where you can get at it easily.
Install rivet nuts in body panels instead of riveting them on so you can remove belly pan part so you can work on these things would be a very welcome addition.
How about installing some good bearings instead of Made in China bearings that the metal from the bearing balls actually flake off. (I have replaced 3 of these so far with NTN & SKF bearings in under 2000 miles)
You could also go back to having the jack shaft / Chain case unbolted from the engine. While the idea seems like a good idea in all reality it don't work very well.
A hood that folds open and you can get at things like the old sleds would be real nice VS unbolting and taking pieces off and a wider body that gives you some better wind protection would be very welcome as well. These new sleds are a lot colder to ride VS the Twin spar, The F5-7 series or even the old Zr's & Zrt's.
I currently own a pair of 2014's and they are a engineering disaster under the hood IMO. Al
I have been to the dealer plenty for parts and look at the sleds as I walk past them to the parts counter. Yes I know they made the body to come off easier. No you dont have to drain the engine oil just bend the lines out of the way and hope you dont kink a line in the process but Really. How Hard is it to add a drain and fill plug to the chain case??? Move the oil tank out of the way so you can access the chain case. All you need is some common sense to fix half of these problems. I disagree with the statement you dont need a chain tensioner on the reverse as that chain is getting just as many miles on it as the drive chain is and will slop out over time but has no chain tensioner on it.Looks like you haven't been to a dealer, or sled show in 2 or 3 years as almost everything you are bitching about was taken care of already, with the redesigned genII body work
You aren't going to see big fat body work, or hood hinges ever again. no one wants that type of styling. It doesn't/wont sell anyplace but the utility category (bear cat).
There is no need to drain the engine oil, in order to open the chaincase up. Also there is no need for a tensioner on the reverse chain. Not only is it sized not need one, It has 2 guides in the cover, and only sees load when in reverse.
Thats a good thing with the visible coolant tanks. Can you fill them easily?? I know you can on the 7000 as I own one. I have not looked under the hood on any thing newer than a 15.There is no load on the reverse chain, unless the sled is in reverse. that means the chain wont wear or stretch unless you are going backwards. Do you think the transfer case in your truck, or transaxle in any fwd car has a tensioner??
And all the Gen II sleds (and the 7000) have easily visable coolant tanks