I agree with all your above suggestion, but as for the fuse box, another good logical location would be next to the battery IMO, like so many other things have it,(ATv's Motorcycles and such)
What needs Improvement well...
For starters you can add a couple chain case drain & fill plugs. Having to tear the sled into pieces just to change the chain case oil is Nuts!!! Speaking of chain cases, Having a second chain with out a tensioner on the chain is just asking for problems. I am also in favor of a mechanical reverse VS these electric motors that leave you stranded between gears.
How about moving the oil tank so you can get at the chain case with out draining all the engine oil.
You need to put the fuse block some where that is easy to get at with out having to unbolt parts to get at it. A good place would be in front the handle bars under the google bag where you can get at it easily.
Install rivet nuts in body panels instead of riveting them on so you can remove belly pan part so you can work on these things would be a very welcome addition.
How about installing some good bearings instead of Made in China bearings that the metal from the bearing balls actually flake off. (I have replaced 3 of these so far with NTN & SKF bearings in under 2000 miles)
You could also go back to having the jack shaft / Chain case unbolted from the engine. While the idea seems like a good idea in all reality it don't work very well.
A hood that folds open and you can get at things like the old sleds would be real nice VS unbolting and taking pieces off and a wider body that gives you some better wind protection would be very welcome as well. These new sleds are a lot colder to ride VS the Twin spar, The F5-7 series or even the old Zr's & Zrt's.
I currently own a pair of 2014's and they are a engineering disaster under the hood IMO. Al
How about moving the oil tank so you can get at the chain case with out draining all the engine oil.
You need to put the fuse block some where that is easy to get at with out having to unbolt parts to get at it. A good place would be in front the handle bars under the google bag where you can get at it easily.
Install rivet nuts in body panels instead of riveting them on so you can remove belly pan part so you can work on these things would be a very welcome addition.
How about installing some good bearings instead of Made in China bearings that the metal from the bearing balls actually flake off. (I have replaced 3 of these so far with NTN & SKF bearings in under 2000 miles)
You could also go back to having the jack shaft / Chain case unbolted from the engine. While the idea seems like a good idea in all reality it don't work very well.
A hood that folds open and you can get at things like the old sleds would be real nice VS unbolting and taking pieces off and a wider body that gives you some better wind protection would be very welcome as well. These new sleds are a lot colder to ride VS the Twin spar, The F5-7 series or even the old Zr's & Zrt's.
I currently own a pair of 2014's and they are a engineering disaster under the hood IMO. Al
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I should have said on the 7000 as the 9000 has it mounted on the clutch guard. I am not a fan of that as it could be destroyed if you shred a belt. I would be happy with just some place out of harms way and easy to get at.I agree with all your above suggestion, but as for the fuse box, another good logical location would be next to the battery IMO, like so many other things have it,(ATv's Motorcycles and such)
I can also say you guys should not be using two piece molded together coolant tanks on on any models let alone the 1100 4 stroke models as the seams let go. What a piss poor design. They crack and leave you stranded and are a royal PIA to replace. Arctic cat use to build Quality sleds. Now days IMO they build sleds to get out of warranty and that's it. Well you might make the mighty dollar once but it wont happen again with POS sleds like this!!! I am a Die Hard Cat guy but I have about had it with your new sleds. Ride them a 1000 miles and replace 1/2 the components because you dont care about quality!!! Sorry for the rant but at this point I am Pissed. Every time I turn around I am working on these things. I didn't spend 30K to wrench on them every 1000 miles!!!
sorry AL, your not making me feel so great about upgrading here LOLI can also say you guys should not be using two piece molded together coolant tanks on on any models let alone the 1100 4 stroke models as the seams let go. What a piss poor design. They crack and leave you stranded and are a royal PIA to replace. Arctic cat use to build Quality sleds. Now days IMO they build sleds to get out of warranty and that's it. Well you might make the mighty dollar once but it wont happen again with POS sleds like this!!! I am a Die Hard Cat guy but I have about had it with your new sleds. Ride them a 1000 miles and replace 1/2 the components because you dont care about quality!!! Sorry for the rant but at this point I am Pissed. Every time I turn around I am working on these things. I didn't spend 30K to wrench on them every 1000 miles!!!
but I agree, almost everything made to day is NOT made with long life in the cards, its a disposable world we live in n ow more than ever, guess it pays to buy them extended warranty's
I know Yamaha's have a 5 yr one, not sure if miles are involved in things or not, but sure makes me wish I had a warranty now!
I did see on that link I sent you, they have folks on the yamaha site that move there viper fuse boxes and seem happy with it
I am going to look more at mine when ever I get my hood off and see *sled is still covered in ice covering screws on me)
if there is room to move so access can be had with hood still on I think I might move mine, and then see if I can find a good stronger cover to help protect it if a belt comes apart/off! they say with cover being fixed, when mounted on top its protected, but I still see weak links in that alone idea!, but a small maybe aluminum cover that bolts on/lifts off over fuses shouldn;'t be that hard to make? bolt from bottom up so heads are up high away from belt area and then some speed wing nuts maybe to hold cover over fuses?
wish it was summer time so I wouldn;t feel bad about screwing with a sled in snow seasons?
just never thought about the fuse box till I blew a darn fuse on the trail and lost dash and brake lights, a safety issue NOT being able to fix trail side without major disassemble, piss poor design for sure IMO too!
I think its made this way so many folks will just TAKE to a dealer to fix, and then they can make money off you that way, over you fixing a simple thing yourself!
its all about $$, not quality or reputation for making GOOD long lasting products these days
all marketing to make you open wallets, and buy and then find out what crap you bought, and then sell you something else and repeat!
you need to figure out how to get one of these 800-900-1000 triple motor into a new chassis, bare bones electrical crap, manual reverse, and well, I'd still like electric start however LOL
and I;'m in on one again! as I bet a lot of others here would be
Stan, For the price of these sleds there should be some quality built in. If they cant do it we will read about them going bankrupt before long because people will not continue to pay 15K + on a sled to work on constantly. Would you buy a 15K car and expect to take it to the dealer every 1000 miles for repairs??? Hell no, that is why they made the Lemon law!!! It dont help that every thing is sourced out to the cheapest bidder either!! My 96 Zrt has had a better track record in 11,000 + miles than the new sleds in under 2000 miles.sorry AL, your not making me feel so great about upgrading here LOL
but I agree, almost everything made to day is NOT made with long life in the cards, its a disposable world we live in n ow more than ever, guess it pays to buy them extended warranty's
I know Yamaha's have a 5 yr one, not sure if miles are involved in things or not, but sure makes me wish I had a warranty now!
I did see on that link I sent you, they have folks on the yamaha site that move there viper fuse boxes and seem happy with it
I am going to look more at mine when ever I get my hood off and see *sled is still covered in ice covering screws on me)
if there is room to move so access can be had with hood still on I think I might move mine, and then see if I can find a good stronger cover to help protect it if a belt comes apart/off! they say with cover being fixed, when mounted on top its protected, but I still see weak links in that alone idea!, but a small maybe aluminum cover that bolts on/lifts off over fuses shouldn;'t be that hard to make? bolt from bottom up so heads are up high away from belt area and then some speed wing nuts maybe to hold cover over fuses?
wish it was summer time so I wouldn;t feel bad about screwing with a sled in snow seasons?
just never thought about the fuse box till I blew a darn fuse on the trail and lost dash and brake lights, a safety issue NOT being able to fix trail side without major disassemble, piss poor design for sure IMO too!
I think its made this way so many folks will just TAKE to a dealer to fix, and then they can make money off you that way, over you fixing a simple thing yourself!
its all about $$, not quality or reputation for making GOOD long lasting products these days
all marketing to make you open wallets, and buy and then find out what crap you bought, and then sell you something else and repeat!
you need to figure out how to get one of these 800-900-1000 triple motor into a new chassis, bare bones electrical crap, manual reverse, and well, I'd still like electric start however LOL
and I;'m in on one again! as I bet a lot of others here would be
IMO one of the problems with these new sleds is you are trying to compact everything under the hood way to tight. Be doing this it is creating tons of extra heat and the 4 strokes build a ton more heat than a 2 stroke so the problems you are getting is double by the 4 strokes. That is why there have been belt and clutch bearing issues, Coolant tanks I am sure cant take all the heat and pounding either as the under hood temps on these new sleds are insane compared to a decade ago plus.
Make the body a little bigger and spread things out and the under hood things will live longer with less heat trapped under the hood. Besides spreading the body out will make the sled warmer to ride which would be a good thing.
Make the body a little bigger and spread things out and the under hood things will live longer with less heat trapped under the hood. Besides spreading the body out will make the sled warmer to ride which would be a good thing.
Looks like you haven't been to a dealer, or sled show in 2 or 3 years as almost everything you are bitching about was taken care of already, with the redesigned genII body workFor starters you can add a couple chain case drain & fill plugs. Having to tear the sled into pieces just to change the chain case oil is Nuts!!! Speaking of chain cases, Having a second chain with out a tensioner on the chain is just asking for problems. I am also in favor of a mechanical reverse VS these electric motors that leave you stranded between gears.
How about moving the oil tank so you can get at the chain case with out draining all the engine oil.
You need to put the fuse block some where that is easy to get at with out having to unbolt parts to get at it. A good place would be in front the handle bars under the google bag where you can get at it easily.
Install rivet nuts in body panels instead of riveting them on so you can remove belly pan part so you can work on these things would be a very welcome addition.
How about installing some good bearings instead of Made in China bearings that the metal from the bearing balls actually flake off. (I have replaced 3 of these so far with NTN & SKF bearings in under 2000 miles)
You could also go back to having the jack shaft / Chain case unbolted from the engine. While the idea seems like a good idea in all reality it don't work very well.
A hood that folds open and you can get at things like the old sleds would be real nice VS unbolting and taking pieces off and a wider body that gives you some better wind protection would be very welcome as well. These new sleds are a lot colder to ride VS the Twin spar, The F5-7 series or even the old Zr's & Zrt's.
I currently own a pair of 2014's and they are a engineering disaster under the hood IMO. Al
You aren't going to see big fat body work, or hood hinges ever again. no one wants that type of styling. It doesn't/wont sell anyplace but the utility category (bear cat).
There is no need to drain the engine oil, in order to open the chaincase up. Also there is no need for a tensioner on the reverse chain. Not only is it sized not need one, It has 2 guides in the cover, and only sees load when in reverse.
I have been to the dealer plenty for parts and look at the sleds as I walk past them to the parts counter. Yes I know they made the body to come off easier. No you dont have to drain the engine oil just bend the lines out of the way and hope you dont kink a line in the process but Really. How Hard is it to add a drain and fill plug to the chain case??? Move the oil tank out of the way so you can access the chain case. All you need is some common sense to fix half of these problems. I disagree with the statement you dont need a chain tensioner on the reverse as that chain is getting just as many miles on it as the drive chain is and will slop out over time but has no chain tensioner on it.Looks like you haven't been to a dealer, or sled show in 2 or 3 years as almost everything you are bitching about was taken care of already, with the redesigned genII body work
You aren't going to see big fat body work, or hood hinges ever again. no one wants that type of styling. It doesn't/wont sell anyplace but the utility category (bear cat).
There is no need to drain the engine oil, in order to open the chaincase up. Also there is no need for a tensioner on the reverse chain. Not only is it sized not need one, It has 2 guides in the cover, and only sees load when in reverse.
I will add this as well. I sure hope they think about where the put the coolant tanks as on my 1100 you have to pull the hood to check the anti freeze level and then you have to open the cap as the tank is Black. Why would you use a black coolant tank that you can not visually check??? Why would you put it in a location where you cant visually check it with out removing the hood?? On the old sleds you checked the oil tank & coolant level daily. Why would you not check the coolant level daily if you could???
Maybe they have changed some of it and I hope they start thinking about these things when the next breed of sleds come out.
There is no load on the reverse chain, unless the sled is in reverse. that means the chain wont wear or stretch unless you are going backwards. Do you think the transfer case in your truck, or transaxle in any fwd car has a tensioner??
And all the Gen II sleds (and the 7000) have easily visable coolant tanks
And all the Gen II sleds (and the 7000) have easily visable coolant tanks
Thats a good thing with the visible coolant tanks. Can you fill them easily?? I know you can on the 7000 as I own one. I have not looked under the hood on any thing newer than a 15.There is no load on the reverse chain, unless the sled is in reverse. that means the chain wont wear or stretch unless you are going backwards. Do you think the transfer case in your truck, or transaxle in any fwd car has a tensioner??
And all the Gen II sleds (and the 7000) have easily visable coolant tanks
So I take you expect your reverse chain to last 100,000 miles??? 10,000 miles??? 5000 miles??? 3000 miles???
A transfer case uses a very wide & heavy duty Hyvo chain (Look at the pin size if you have ever seen one??) and the reverse chain is a standard link belt that looks like it came straight off a 95 puma 340 and put it on a 7000, 8000 & 1100 turbo. I have been inside Chevy's 3/4 ton transfer cases because of the pump rub issue and know all to well what they look like. Thats another brilliant engineering design.
My point with the reverse chain is.... As long as it is constantly rotating it will wear, as the pins wear and you cant adjust the tension to take the slack out. When the pins wear so much and the chain stretch's it is going to jump the teeth and ratchet. At that point hopefully all it does is break a chain with out destroying the case, gears, etc, etc. I know for a fact both of my reverse chains are getting sloppy and I will replace them with in the year before they break and take out the chain case or worse.
I seen they finally got away from that plastic gear in the reverse motor and that is a big plus in the right direction. I really wish they would have gave it a new PN so if you have to order one you dont end up with one that has the old plastic gear. I guess its a crap shoot for a while if you have to order one.
IMO, I still think a reverse should use a all gear set up instead of a 2nd chain to drive it and a manual reverse lever that dont fail. I work on a lot of sleds and not just my own and I have seen plenty of these reverse motors fail other than stripped plastic gears.
I know its a hard sell now days as would be a flip open hood but if it was made to look cool it would sell. I know now days every thing is all about electrical gadgets and fancy star war looks. The problem with electrical gadgets is they fail after a few years and star war looks make them a PIA to work on.
There is no way under normal use, you will ever stretch or wear out a reverse chain. Its got no load at all on it, unless you are going in reverse. Its not going to stretch, or wear appreciably during the life of the machine its installed on.
And its got the 2 guide pads to keep it in place.
I've seen several chain cases run dry, till the sled wouldn't move any further, but the reverse chain was still ok.
Next time you're walking past a new sled in the dealer, take 30 seconds to pop the side panels off and look
And its got the 2 guide pads to keep it in place.
I've seen several chain cases run dry, till the sled wouldn't move any further, but the reverse chain was still ok.
Next time you're walking past a new sled in the dealer, take 30 seconds to pop the side panels off and look
To be honest, the genII turbo body work goes on and off easier than the sno pro. The 2 strokes add 1 screw to the mix, but aren't as figity..
The race sled had easier access to the chain case.
I'm not that big of a fan of the new guage... Its good for the average guy, but is lacking compared to the competition.
I'm spoiled I guess. My race sled didn't come with any guage, so I got one of these:
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price was the same as, or cheaper than the cat kit iirc (and I shifted at 9200). It plugs into the lighting circuit
The race sled had easier access to the chain case.
I'm not that big of a fan of the new guage... Its good for the average guy, but is lacking compared to the competition.
I'm spoiled I guess. My race sled didn't come with any guage, so I got one of these:
price was the same as, or cheaper than the cat kit iirc (and I shifted at 9200). It plugs into the lighting circuit
Krom, The next one I walk past I will ask them to take the hood and side panels off. If you are going to buy a after market tach check out the new EGT II tach with built in MPH & RPM playback. I want to get one of these for our PS1000 sled. The MPH would help a lot in testing even though we have timers.
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Al, Is it adjustable, or only mountable with 9k at 12:00?
Concentrate on how the sled is acting, where its going, and use the playback. It's way, way, way more accurate than trying to guess at a stock tack that's only marked every 500 rpm
Doesn't matter if you can tune the tach for +/- .01 rpm,
You can't tell +/- 100 rpm bouncing down a field on one with marks every 500 rpm.
And the gen II turbo plastics come on and off easier than the sno pro chassis.
You can't tell +/- 100 rpm bouncing down a field on one with marks every 500 rpm.
And the gen II turbo plastics come on and off easier than the sno pro chassis.
Not sure why you're so angry... But there is no way in hell you can tell +/- 100 rpm on a ****** tach with the only marks 500 rpm apart, doesn't matter what angle its mounted at.
Have you even touched a sled with gen II body work?? Am I going to have to post a you tube video on here of the sides and hood coming off, and back on again?
Have you even touched a sled with gen II body work?? Am I going to have to post a you tube video on here of the sides and hood coming off, and back on again?
wow i thought there would be lots of love when i got back from vacation our snow is shot for a minuet and i'm ok i've had a lot of fun on my old 16 so far hoping for lot's more ! ride on sled brothers fix em fly em and love em
I switched my gauge to an aftermarket unit that can display rpm in a selected style. It was hard to read the OEM gauge with the sled bouncing around.
Procross first generation;
The hood needs to come off fairly often for repairs and maintenance. But, I try to limit taking off the hood because it is flimsy. The area around the fasteners needs to be a little more beefy with better fitment. The plastic clips under the top mesh intakes rarely stay down on left side. This has been a common problem with 2S sleds I have ran. Not sure if that is creating extra stress on the back upper hood assembly fasteners, but that area of the hood keeps cracking.
BTW, I have replaced four headlights on two of our Procross sleds just in the past year. That is more than I have ever replaced on past sleds. These things are also the most difficult to change.
I do like improvements with the hood assembly on the latest generation. Better to get at coolant and motor now. I would just like the next generation to be even better.
Procross first generation;
The hood needs to come off fairly often for repairs and maintenance. But, I try to limit taking off the hood because it is flimsy. The area around the fasteners needs to be a little more beefy with better fitment. The plastic clips under the top mesh intakes rarely stay down on left side. This has been a common problem with 2S sleds I have ran. Not sure if that is creating extra stress on the back upper hood assembly fasteners, but that area of the hood keeps cracking.
BTW, I have replaced four headlights on two of our Procross sleds just in the past year. That is more than I have ever replaced on past sleds. These things are also the most difficult to change.
I do like improvements with the hood assembly on the latest generation. Better to get at coolant and motor now. I would just like the next generation to be even better.
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
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