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I found this skidoo sled, 03 or 04 600 ho. It is selling for 1600 and seems to be a great deal to me. However, my friend told me this guy I'm buying from is a "rough rider." My friend does seem to have a point since the seller's profile picture is him jumping his new sled, and supposedly he did some similar stuff with this skidoo. I don't think he jumped this one though. He rebuilt the top end, I think he said '3 hours' ago, but it was a Little mumbly.

My question to you guys is what does "rough riding" do to a sled? Should I look at an arctic cat over the skidoo?
 

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You see it all the time on threads here where chassis' are bent or cracks form beside the welds. It doesn't matter what brand you buy. Constant jumping and hard landings are not good. There's always a reason sleds go cheap.
 

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You see it all the time on threads here where chassis' are bent or cracks form beside the welds. It doesn't matter what brand you buy. Constant jumping and hard landings are not good. There's always a reason sleds g
Is it something that I should take with a grain of salt, or not buy at all? I have a feeling by now that I should avoid snowmobiles that are not "lady drivin"
 

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Any used sled or atv should be gone over with a fine tooth comb. Lady driven to me means nothing. They can be just as bad. Personally when I'm buying used stuff I look at their other vehicles in their yard and the yard appearance itself. I think It says a lot about a person who keeps their stuff clean and tidy. Do some searching on Ski-doo forums for problems or issues with that sled first. I researched my used 2005 Sabercat on this site before I joined back in 2014. I still have that machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Any used sled or atv should be gone over with a fine tooth comb. Lady driven to me means nothing. They can be just as bad. Personally when I'm buying used stuff I look at their other vehicles in their yard and the yard appearance itself. I think It says a lot about a person who keeps their stuff clean and tidy. Do some searching on Ski-doo forums for problems or issues with that sled first. I researched my used 2005 Sabercat on this site before I joined back in 2014. I still have that machine.
I didn't even think of looking at how other stuff is taken care of. I will do a little more research on them abd see what it comes up with, thank you!
 

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its a 12+ yr old sled, and that means its seen its share of use and abuse, sleds are toys that things cna go wrong from just being parked, salt eats metal, mice eat wires and parts, rusts destroys things, shock need rebuilding, bearings go dry, gaskets and so on dry rot, even fuel lines get britle, on TIME alone, add in the way the sled was ridden, and LOTS of possible problems can be there on ANY used sled!

also, any older sled can be a night mare to own, of ANY brand, if they were not cared for or beat on and put away with little care

older sleds like this, can BE OK, but most all will have MANY things you need to FIX too make RELIABLE

so look at every thing you can, look for rust, dry things from belts to tracks to gaskets you can see, inspect all bearings on all things you can, ,look for anything bent
and BE honest with yourself
what are your skill sets to FIX things if they need fixing, and be honest with what your budget will be to replace basics that should be done before ride time!
price tag on sled alone isn';t what gets you thru a season!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
its a 12+ yr old sled, and that means its seen its share of use and abuse, sleds are toys that things cna go wrong from just being parked, salt eats metal, mice eat wires and parts, rusts destroys things, shock need rebuilding, bearings go dry, gaskets and so on dry rot, even fuel lines get britle, on TIME alone, add in the way the sled was ridden, and LOTS of possible problems can be there on ANY used sled!

also, any older sled can be a night mare to own, of ANY brand, if they were not cared for or beat on and put away with little care

older sleds like this, can BE OK, but most all will have MANY things you need to FIX too make RELIABLE

so look at every thing you can, look for rust, dry things from belts to tracks to gaskets you can see, inspect all bearings on all things you can, ,look for anything bent
and BE honest with yourself
what are your skill sets to FIX things if they need fixing, and be honest with what your budget will be to replace basics that should be done before ride time!
price tag on sled alone isn';t what gets you thru a season!
Thank you for the response, a lot of times I over look things and this is very helpful to know what else to look for and check out. Being honest, the 1600 is just barely something I can afford to take on at this time, and being reminded that I'll still probably have to put more money into it helps me make my decision. Thank you, and if anyone still had some ideas on things that should be looked over, I'm all ears! Still kinda new to the sport.
 

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, do a compression test on cylinders, look at clutch's and look for fine cracks, as well as , see if all dusty with belt dust, or does things look like they were all made pretty to HIDE things
are both ski's pointing straight like, track good, no rips/tears, dry rot?
they all come to mind for me when looking at used sleds!
 

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Don’t forget about clutches. They can add up quickly if shot. Go to the forum dootalk for info on clutch issues if any. Hardcoresledder is another forum not brand specific for sled info. Lots of info out there now. I’ve seen too many guys get into this sport and can’t afford it. New sleds are expensive and old sleds are cheap but can be expensive to fix to be able to ride them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
, do a compression test on cylinders, look at clutch's and look for fine cracks, as well as , see if all dusty with belt dust, or does things look like they were all made pretty to HIDE things
are both ski's pointing straight like, track good, no rips/tears, dry rot?
they all come to mind for me when looking at used sleds!
I'm happy to hear of more things to look for! I had re-convinced myself to look into buying it and this will help! Forgot about the fact people hide things with a pretty looking sled, one day I had my sister's friends try covering up mudding Damage from a gravel pit, had water in the gas, probably even sediment. Tool boxes and rear seat were CAKED with it even up to an exaust 3 feet of f the ground... Sorry for the rant, he had tried to pressure wash it to conver stuff up (long story short). Thank you for the advice!
 

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Jumping doesn't usually wreck a sled. Landing is a different story. ;)
I see things that just plain wear out with hard miles. Six thousand miles of stutter bumps will do a lot to a sled.
There is a lot of good advice already.
I"m adding what I look for on my own machines. Any rubbing on aluminum makes a lot of dust. That includes worn fastener mount locations and cracks in the structures. I always look at the clutches for odd belt wear. Nice smooth clutch faces with full shifting are easy to check. ****ed out shocks are also easy to test with a hop on the machine.
Even if money isn't tight, it is worth looking over the sled very well. If the seller is leery about the scrutiny, walk away.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Jumping doesn't usually wreck a sled. Landing is a different story. ;)
I see things that just plain wear out with hard miles. Six thousand miles of stutter bumps will do a lot to a sled.
There is a lot of good advice already.
I"m adding what I look for on my own machines. Any rubbing on aluminum makes a lot of dust. That includes worn fastener mount locations and cracks in the structures. I always look at the clutches for odd belt wear. Nice smooth clutch faces with full shifting are easy to check. ****ed out shocks are also easy to test with a hop on the machine.
Even if money isn't tight, it is worth looking over the sled very well. If the seller is leery about the scrutiny, walk away.
Thank you! I'm going over to check it out tomorrow, all of this will Definatly help me out. I appreciate all the feedback! Ill let you all know how it goes
 

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I own 5 Cats and had 2 Skidoo’s. My brother in law has 2 skidoo’s in my garage so I’m pretty familiar with them. There’s a lot to look for on that sled. First off that’s a decent sled depending on the trim. I just sold an ‘07 MXZ 600HO X package with a blown engine for $1600. Mine was in excellent shape other than the engine and top end only had about 1700 miles on it. There’s a design flaw on all the Skidoo 600 and 800 2 stokes. The crank shaft bearings can’t be greased and regularly fail around 5000 miles on the 600 and 3000 on the 800. Find out if he ever did the crank shaft bearings. You have to pull the engine to do it but you can get to the critical one on the clutch side by pulling the clutch and repacking and changing the seal. If it’s never been done your on borrowed time. Mine went right at 5000 miles. Check to see if the shocks are rebuildable. If not they are a bit pricey to change. Check the tunnel for any damage or loose rivets. Check the front end carefully to ensure it’s straight. Common problem with this sled. Make sure there are no leaks or cracks in the oil tank. When they leak they start fires do to their location. It’s a good sled for the money if it’s not shot or in need of significant repair and or maintenance. Find out what trim, is it an X, blizzard? Makes a big difference in ride. I bought mine for my kids but they really preferred the Cats over the Skidoo as do I. They’re riding F6 and F8 Snopro sleds. We ride a decent amount and I can say the Skidoos are in the shop more than the Cats. My mechanic tells me to buy more skidoo’s because they’re what keeps him in business.
 

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I own 5 Cats and had 2 Skidoo’s. My brother in law has 2 skidoo’s in my garage so I’m pretty familiar with them. There’s a lot to look for on that sled. First off that’s a decent sled depending on the trim. I just sold an ‘07 MXZ 600HO X package with a blown engine for $1600. Mine was in excellent shape other than the engine and top end only had about 1700 miles on it. There’s a design flaw on all the Skidoo 600 and 800 2 stokes. The crank shaft bearings can’t be greased and regularly fail around 5000 miles on the 600 and 3000 on the 800. Find out if he ever did the crank shaft bearings. You have to pull the engine to do it but you can get to the critical one on the clutch side by pulling the clutch and repacking and changing the seal. If it’s never been done your on borrowed time. Mine went right at 5000 miles. Check to see if the shocks are rebuildable. If not they are a bit pricey to change. Check the tunnel for any damage or loose rivets. Check the front end carefully to ensure it’s straight. Common problem with this sled. Make sure there are no leaks or cracks in the oil tank. When they leak they start fires do to their location. It’s a good sled for the money if it’s not shot or in need of significant repair and or maintenance. Find out what trim, is it an X, blizzard? Makes a big difference in ride. I bought mine for my kids but they really preferred the Cats over the Skidoo as do I. They’re riding F6 and F8 Snopro sleds. We ride a decent amount and I can say the Skidoos are in the shop more than the Cats. My mechanic tells me to buy more skidoo’s because they’re what keeps him in business.
That's good to know, the guy had said he put 3-5k miles on the sled once he bought it from a guy in Milwaukeep. Supposedly that guy had it rebuilt it rebuilt it himself. I think the shocks are rebuildable but I didn't have the money for it rn😂 the only problem I see is the engine sounds like it is popping while running but I think that is usually from what I've read. From what I understand it is an 04' rev, if there was a rebuild done, is there a chance that the bearings are stronger than stock (if replaced?) It well idle around 1500 rpms and engage the clutch at 3500.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I own 5 Cats and had 2 Skidoo’s. My brother in law has 2 skidoo’s in my garage so I’m pretty familiar with them. There’s a lot to look for on that sled. First off that’s a decent sled depending on the trim. I just sold an ‘07 MXZ 600HO X package with a blown engine for $1600. Mine was in excellent shape other than the engine and top end only had about 1700 miles on it. There’s a design flaw on all the Skidoo 600 and 800 2 stokes. The crank shaft bearings can’t be greased and regularly fail around 5000 miles on the 600 and 3000 on the 800. Find out if he ever did the crank shaft bearings. You have to pull the engine to do it but you can get to the critical one on the clutch side by pulling the clutch and repacking and changing the seal. If it’s never been done your on borrowed time. Mine went right at 5000 miles. Check to see if the shocks are rebuildable. If not they are a bit pricey to change. Check the tunnel for any damage or loose rivets. Check the front end carefully to ensure it’s straight. Common problem with this sled. Make sure there are no leaks or cracks in the oil tank. When they leak they start fires do to their location. It’s a good sled for the money if it’s not shot or in need of significant repair and or maintenance. Find out what trim, is it an X, blizzard? Makes a big difference in ride. I bought mine for my kids but they really preferred the Cats over the Skidoo as do I. They’re riding F6 and F8 Snopro sleds. We ride a decent amount and I can say the Skidoos are in the shop more than the Cats. My mechanic tells me to buy more skidoo’s because they’re what keeps him in business.
and how do you repack a bearing? Roughly😂 I'm also glad to know that as long as the bearings check out and there is no major damage it is a good sled
 
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