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Discussion Starter #1
I HAVE A 2002 ZR 600.RUNS GREAT AND PULLS OFF THE LINE JUST FINE ITS JUST WHEN I AM GOING LIKE 50 AND LET OFF THE GAS AND GO BACK TO FULL THROTTLE I WANT THE POWER TO BE RIGHT THERE WHERE IT TAKES A SECOND FOR THE REVS TO GET BACK UP. I WANT IT TO BACKSHIFT LIKE A SOB. ANY IDEAS?WHEN I MASH THE GAS I WANT IT TO SCREAM YA KNOW WHERE THE MOST POWER IS THERE RIGHT WHEN I GET ON THE GAS.WHEN I TAP THE BRAKE AND THEN GAS IT SCREAMS SO HOW CAN I GET THAT SAME THING WITHOUT USING THE BRAKE?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
also i wanna know if i can change where the secondary spring hole location. its in the middle hole now(red spring) can i adjust this to a different hole to get the performance i want?
 

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Change the helix's second number higher. What is in it now?
 

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On second thought have you got the right belt on it? Is the center to center correct on it? Are the rollers good and not excessively sloppy? I would check the belt deflection while your at it too. The belt should sit approx. 1/8" out of the secondary clutch. All this should be checked. The helix should be fine if its a 53.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the rollers are good for sure. the belt is almost level with the clutch.is there a way to adjust this?to make it sit above the clutch
 

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Yes, you have to take out probly a .060 thick washer (the thicker one) and put it back together again. Its part #11. There should be 3 of them in it. Be sure to mark both sides of the clutch with a marker and the roller cover to. This will keep everything in balance upon putting it back together.

If the belt is shot it would be easier to put a new belt on. Although you may still need to do this with a new belt too. The belt should stick out of the secondary approx. 1/8".
 

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Discussion Starter #8
how do i wind the spring? and in which hole should i go into this time. i believe i want it a bit tighter,on past sleds iv tightened the spring and liked the results
 

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You just wind it by hand on the bench by pushing down and twisting. Takes a nak, but you will get it. I would leave it in the middle hole were its suppose to be. All these holes do is make the motor rev approx. 100 rpm's more when moved counter clockwise and 100 rpm's less when moved clockwise. It will increase or decrease spring tension. Just keep it in the middle hole. This is factory and you shouldn't notice any difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i was under the impression the hole change will tighten the spring more holding it in longer before it shifts. is this not true?what should a do to get it to stay in longer before it upshifts?and also how hard should i turn the spring by hand? it seems hard to do just one rotation of the spring. am i missing something here?haha
 

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No this is not true. If you want a different shift point you need to change the helix. The spring will only change top rpm. It may actually change the shift point but I don't think it would be to the effect that you would notice.

If you marked the cover you will see how much to turn it. Approx. 1/3 of a turn till bolt holes line up and cover can be pushed over the 3 studs.
 

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I got the same set up on mine red spring / 53 and mine is a rocket .. no bog if i want power i just ask and its there .. make sure every thing is aligned and clean
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks for all the imput!!! first off ill take that shim out of the clutch then check on that belt deflection and go from there thanks again
 

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Check to see if you movable sheave bushing on your primary is not getting bad. This will make a primary "hang up". I noticed if you tap your brake and get after it again it works better? I recommend a 57/50 with a green arctic spring! I run mine on the last hole, but that's just me!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yeah when i tap the brake and mash the throttle the sled totally rips like i want it to right towards top speed. im looking for the same effect without the need for the brake. so for instance when im goin like 50 and punch it i get max rpm instantly
 
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