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Discussion Starter #1
I decided to dive into checking/adjusting my valves on the twin...well, the spec's call for a gap between .10-.15mm. so, I used the .12 feeler guage and it seems like they are too tight. it that possible for a bike that has 250+ hours and never been adjusted before? I figured the gap would be loose, not tight?

On another note, adjusted the first one, went to torque it back down and didn't catch the in/lbs specification when I grabbed my ft/lbs torque wrench. :eek: bang your head wrung off the tappet screw. I hate breakin crap when I'm tryin to fix it!!

Anyhow, if it's hard to get the feeler guage in the gap, does that mean it's too tight and needs to be loosened, or should I just leave 'em alone?

I was doing this because I thought it was my hard starting problem...
 

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they get tighter not loose'r, the tighter they get the harder to start. you wanna set them to the loose side of the specs, esp the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok, so would I loosen the screw, put the feeler guage in between, then tighten the screw onto the feeler guage? just making sure I dont have to struggle to get the feeler guage back out?
 

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you want a very slight drag on the feeler.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
sweet. thanks a ton bro! now I just have to get another tappet screw!
 

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no problem, most people think they would get loose and in automotive apps due to wear they do. in our apps the seats give some which seats the valve deeper and tighten em up, the valves also stretch making them tighter. sport quads with ti valves have to be adjusted every 20 hours cause the ti stretches faster. once they get tight enough thats there's no lash they hang open causing comp to go down, thats what makes em hard to start.
 

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also if they are too loose you will have a starting issue, reason being, to much gap prevents the compression release to operate.
i solved my m/p having starter bind going with cats new specs 0.04 intake 0.06 exhaust.

i also bought the ac valve adjusting tool from a dealer, no need for a feeler guage.and it takes 1/2 the time.
 

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I recently worked on a V2 that was next to impossible to start. Once I adjusted the valves (which were WAY too tight) it started like a dream. When they are too tight, you actually lose compression because the valves stay open a bit.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Indiana Mudcat @ Nov 21 2009, 12:24 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
no problem, most people think they would get loose and in automotive apps due to wear they do. in our apps the seats give some which seats the valve deeper and tighten em up, the valves also stretch making them tighter. sport quads with ti valves have to be adjusted every 20 hours cause the ti stretches faster. once they get tight enough thats there's no lash they hang open causing comp to go down, thats what makes em hard to start.[/b]
100% correct

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Sanny651 @ Nov 21 2009, 10:52 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I recently worked on a V2 that was next to impossible to start. Once I adjusted the valves (which were WAY too tight) it started like a dream. When they are too tight, you actually lose compression because the valves stay open a bit.[/b]
Yep, but running them "twds' tighter side of specs gives best perf as more lift and duration are brought into play (not a huge amount, but a little)
 

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If you wanted them set for .12 then a .11 would slide in with very little resistance, a .12 would slide in with some resistance and a .13 would not fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well, I set the intakes at .15 and the exhaust at .25. those where the higher end of the specs. I just have to wait on another tappet screw to come in. ordered it today from the dealer and they said it'll be two weeks because of the holidays next week.
 

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Catwalkin,

I too bought the Arctic Cat valve adjusting tool and you still need the feeler guage, it just makes turning the tappets easier and holds them in place when you tighten the lock nut.

When I did my valves I couldn't start it with the pull rope until I started it with the battery a couple of times first.
 

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Your bike should start like a dream now, i would suggest syncing your carbs when your done as well, I just did my valves and synced the carbs and all my hard starting problems are gone
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Crazyotto @ Nov 22 2009, 09:06 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Catwalkin,

I too bought the Arctic Cat valve adjusting tool and you still need the feeler guage, it just makes turning the tappets easier and holds them in place when you tighten the lock nut.

When I did my valves I couldn't start it with the pull rope until I started it with the battery a couple of times first.[/b]
You do not need feeler gauge with that tool. Every scribed line on the back represents 0.002" inch of clearance. to use it. you loosen the lock nut, close the clearance all the way down to zero. make note of where the scribed lines are in reference to the handle. Open up clearance the desired amount of scribed lines. tighten lock nut without turning adjuster. Once you get the feel for the tool, you can adjust a valve in under 15 seconds with no feeler gauge used.

On the Tcat there isn't enough clearance on the rear cylinder to use a feeler gauge. So unless you pull the engine from the frame, the only way I could adjust valves is with the tool.
 

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how about a pic of that tool ( and a rough price)?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yeah, the rear exhaust was a beyotch on the twin.

mthrshp, I had my carbs sync'd before the valve adjustment. but i rekon Ill do it again just for good measure. It's rather easy to do and kinda fun too!

Sanny, those measurements were the loose end of the specs.
Intake: .10-.15mm
Exhaust: .20-.25mm

Thanks to all of ya'll for the tips and advice!!!
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Crazyotto @ Nov 22 2009, 11:06 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Catwalkin,

I too bought the Arctic Cat valve adjusting tool and you still need the feeler guage, it just makes turning the tappets easier and holds them in place when you tighten the lock nut.

When I did my valves I couldn't start it with the pull rope until I started it with the battery a couple of times first.[/b]
on the top dial of the arcticat valve lash tool there are lines scribed into the wheel
every scribe is .002 so once you bottom out the the adj screw with the dial all you need to do is alighn the scribe with the handle of the tool then turn the dial to your specs, 004 turn the dial 2 notches then hold the dial and use the handle to tighten the jam nut.
 
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