Arctic Chat : Arctic Cat Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
594 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im having trouble setting up my new secondary clutch this is for a 96 zr 580 i put the stock 53* helix with the stock yellow spring in. the spring is in the 2nd tightest hole.
it bogs right at take off then wayy over revs till 60 mph then doesnt go much faster.

any suggestions i just would be happy to go back to stock performance
thanks dann
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,778 Posts
Bog at take off is kinda strange because the differences between roller and button will not be evident until the secondary starts to shift. Check that your belt is riding at the correct height (likely same as your button clutch) If it is low in the secondary you will be in a higher gear ratio which could cause a bit of bog, you may need to remove a shim to get the belt to ride at the correct height.

If the 53° helix is stock for the button you will need a steeper one on the roller. With the reduction in friction you will need to go to around 49° in the roller. If you still over rev you may also need to drop some weight in the primary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,097 Posts
You may not have assembled the clutch correctly. My sled worked fine with the 53* helix and stock spring when I did the roller conversion. The only result from the stock helix in the roller clutch is the loss of 2 - 300 RPM on top. The acceleration and back shift was noticable better than with the original button cover. Did you mark the cover and align the marks when putting it back together? Your problems should not be the result of the roller conversion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
594 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
im gonna try less weight in the primary see if that helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,097 Posts
Your problem is not with the primary and not with the helix, or the roller cover, unless it was not assebled properly. Did you get enough twist on the cover when you reassembled the secondary? My guess is you should take the cover off and get th eproper amount of twist, spring preload, on it and also make sure the helix contacts all three rollers evenly. Loosen the three scrwews that attach the helix to the clutch and let the preload of the clutch spring set the helix in even contact with all three rollers and then tighten the screws back down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
594 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
im pretty sure the secondary cover is on flush with the helix i did tighten the hex bolts after there was pressure on the helix how much preload should i come up with?
to do this i was thinking vise grip on the secondary sheave with a fish scale pulling on the vise grip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,097 Posts
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (dann @ Mar 16 2007, 09:32 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
im pretty sure the secondary cover is on flush with the helix i did tighten the hex bolts after there was pressure on the helix how much preload should i come up with?
to do this i was thinking vise grip on the secondary sheave with a fish scale pulling on the vise grip.[/b]
The pre-load on the secodary spring is the rotation of the cover when installing on the towers. You have to rotate the cover against the spring pressure to properly assemble the clutch. If the cover just drops on then you are about 120 deg out from where you should be. There is no need for vise grips and fish scales. The screws I was talikng about are the little allen head screws that connect the helix to the moveable sheave. I was not talking about anything being flush.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
594 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok were on the same page, i was told by someone who builds race sled that i should measure the force of the spring using a fish scale pulling a till it opens then measuring the force he said i shouls run 12lbs but that didnt make much sense
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top