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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am replacing my u-joint as it has pretty much blew out completely. I have tried, c-clamp with a socket and it wont budge, i have tried an airhammer with no luck either. I have even put a big gear puller on it trying to push it out and it wont budge! any ideas?

also on a side not i found out my upper a-arms move back about 1/4" due to stretched bolt holes:angry: and i still need to tackle the motor mounts again since we are in a blizzard watch and it is my main snow removal tool
 

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Just a wild idea, I've never tried it, though it might work. If you've got the time. I've always been able to just apply more persuasion in the form of a larger hammer, more pressure on the air chisel or more determination. I'm assuming you have already removed the 4 C-clips from the U-joint bearing caps.

Wrap the entire joint with plastic wrap, Then inject via the nozzle tube something like WD-40 into the joint to saturate it or fill the cavity completely and seal the hole with more plastic wrap and or tape. Now let it set for several days to perhaps if lucky, loosen the rust or corrosion that has it stuck.

There are products I've seen recommended that are far better than WD-40 for stuck parts but exactly what products escapes me at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i got it finally... stood it up on the rear bumper and got the BFH out with a punch.
 

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i got it finally... stood it up on the rear bumper and got the BFH out with a punch.
Kewl, No tool box should be without a BFH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
should have seen the neighbors checking out my atv doing a wheelie with no rider... i think they though i took up lawn art HAHA
 

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Wyo, PB-Blaster is a very good penetrating spray. Not sure if they sell it in your area though.
 

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PB Blaster
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
image.jpg . That's how it was in the Atv. No wonder it was making noise
 

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Wyo, PB-Blaster is a very good penetrating spray. Not sure if they sell it in your area though.
I hate pb blaster, it sucks, i use DeepCreep its amazing.
 

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If you have a set of good drill bits drill a 1/4" hole in the cap. They come loose every time for me
 

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I had the same problem you had last year. All I have to say is check your output shaft . If your u joint was finished, there is a good chance that the splines have worn down a little, you should have no play .

A mechanic told me this last year, I put the new joint in all nice just to find out that he was right. The shaft was close to 100 bucks I think.
 

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You can order it directly from them, you just have to make up a business name, since they don't sell to the public. You could also try an off the radar tool shop, we have one in town that sells off brand tools cheap and he carries it.
 

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I love aero kroil. My company does quite a bit of work for a chemical company that uses two types of salt to make their product. Needless to say everything there rusts badly. Spray a little on wait a couple minutes. If it doesn't come apart then it probably isn't coming apart. Down side is its about $20 a can.
 

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I love aero kroil. My company does quite a bit of work for a chemical company that uses two types of salt to make their product. Needless to say everything there rusts badly. Spray a little on wait a couple minutes. If it doesn't come apart then it probably isn't coming apart. Down side is its about $20 a can.
Just got this in an email from a friend

In 2007 “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them. This is what they came up with ( the torque measurement is actually pounds-feet):

Nothing: 516 lbs

WD-40: 238 lbs;

PB Blaster: 214 lbs;

Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,

Kano Kroil: 106 lbs

ATF/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.
 
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