i have and 06 crossfire and i cant turn when im trail riding at all. at first i just thought i need to put bigger carbides on it so i bought the bergstem triples for it and i still cant turn it i could use alot of help. i was told i need to turn the cofflink blocks and i didnt no which way to turn them thank you
turning
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Well I dont have a X-fire but my F7 cornered like crap last year, it just pushed into the corners, I had to throw alot of wieght into it to make it turn and when I did that I would get some serios inside ski lift. The fix to my problem is buying new C&A Razor ski's with 7.5 Stud Boy Shaper carbides. I wish I could give you a report on how it changed the turning of my sled but we have had NO SNOW and I dont leave for a snow chasing trip till thursday. But I can say that after reading a TON of posts like these its a safe bet to say that this will make your machine corner MUCH better. I think IMO that a wide carbide sucks for agressive riding, its better to have a narrow and deep carbide for more bite on the trail. :beer_cheers:
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rtkat2, is it under acceleration that you are having trouble turning? I can't imagine you not having enough ski pressure when not accelerating. I only have 8.3 miles on my '06 Crossfire 7 Sno Pro (just picked it up this afternoon :super_happy: ) but from just screwing around in the ditches tonite, mine seems to have LOTS of ski pressure. First thing I noticed was how hard this thing steers compared to my F7. Seems to turn real good (hard packed conditions), even with the stock dual carbides (they're going away as soon as my Powder Pros come in).
I started with my Floats set on 65 lbs. -- do you have your front shocks set at a real low air pressure? Pumping them up will give you more ski pressure, of course. By the way, I'm real impressed with these Fox Floats so far. Ride is awesome, a little firm but very composed and smooth.
I did notice quite a bit of ski lift, though. Does not turn under acceleration. Is this what you're seeing? You (and I) need to adjust our coupler blocks. They're the black plastic blocks located on each slide rail, close to the back wheels. You need to loosen them and turn them -- they have four different posistions, each with a different amount of coupling. I haven't looked at mine closely yet, but it looks like they're on 1 (the least amount of coupling) from the factory. There should be a number on each of the four sides of the block, corresponding to the amount of coupling. Loosen the bolt & turn them from 1 to probably 3 (do both sides evenly) & try 'er then. Your skis should stay planted much better under acceleration. If "3" still isn't enough, turn them to "4".
I found with my Firecat that "4" was too much -- they also make your ride rougher as you increase them. Don't go any higher than you have to to keep your skis planted. My Firecat worked best for me on "2".
I believe that some of the early build Crossfires do not have coupler blocks. If that's the case, I'd check with your dealer to see if they could be added. Some people don't like them for some reason, but no ****, without them you will have serious ski lift issues under acceleration, no matter what some people might try to tell you.
Another thing you can try to get more ski pressure (if none of that stuff above helps) is to loosen your front skid frame shock spring. Turning it looser will allow more of the weight of the sled and you to transfer to the skis. You just want to make sure that when the track is lifted off the ground (or the sled is tipped on its side) that the spring isn't so loose that it rattles. It should at least be snug when no load is being applied to the track.
The next step would be to start messing with your limiter straps; I'm not sure yet if Crossfires have extra holes to draw up the straps more (which will certainly give you more ski pressure) or if new holes have to be drilled. Others can help with this one.
I also agree on the skis, from what I've read, Razors and even Powder Pro skis will really help you turn (gets a little expensive, but absolutely everyone seems to agree that they're worth the $).
Good luck, this problem can certainly be dialed out of your sled with a little adjusting.
I started with my Floats set on 65 lbs. -- do you have your front shocks set at a real low air pressure? Pumping them up will give you more ski pressure, of course. By the way, I'm real impressed with these Fox Floats so far. Ride is awesome, a little firm but very composed and smooth.
I did notice quite a bit of ski lift, though. Does not turn under acceleration. Is this what you're seeing? You (and I) need to adjust our coupler blocks. They're the black plastic blocks located on each slide rail, close to the back wheels. You need to loosen them and turn them -- they have four different posistions, each with a different amount of coupling. I haven't looked at mine closely yet, but it looks like they're on 1 (the least amount of coupling) from the factory. There should be a number on each of the four sides of the block, corresponding to the amount of coupling. Loosen the bolt & turn them from 1 to probably 3 (do both sides evenly) & try 'er then. Your skis should stay planted much better under acceleration. If "3" still isn't enough, turn them to "4".
I found with my Firecat that "4" was too much -- they also make your ride rougher as you increase them. Don't go any higher than you have to to keep your skis planted. My Firecat worked best for me on "2".
I believe that some of the early build Crossfires do not have coupler blocks. If that's the case, I'd check with your dealer to see if they could be added. Some people don't like them for some reason, but no ****, without them you will have serious ski lift issues under acceleration, no matter what some people might try to tell you.
Another thing you can try to get more ski pressure (if none of that stuff above helps) is to loosen your front skid frame shock spring. Turning it looser will allow more of the weight of the sled and you to transfer to the skis. You just want to make sure that when the track is lifted off the ground (or the sled is tipped on its side) that the spring isn't so loose that it rattles. It should at least be snug when no load is being applied to the track.
The next step would be to start messing with your limiter straps; I'm not sure yet if Crossfires have extra holes to draw up the straps more (which will certainly give you more ski pressure) or if new holes have to be drilled. Others can help with this one.
I also agree on the skis, from what I've read, Razors and even Powder Pro skis will really help you turn (gets a little expensive, but absolutely everyone seems to agree that they're worth the $).
Good luck, this problem can certainly be dialed out of your sled with a little adjusting.
My 06 XF700 nonSP had the same issue. I just couldn't get it to turn without letting off the throttle, and under braking it would dive forward. After looking at how my dealer set mine up, they had put the front shocks too stiff, the front skid frame shock was super stiff and the cam adjusters were on 1 (soft) this made the whole sled pivot on the front skid frame shock like a see-saw. Anyhow, I have since loosened up the front skid frame shock to two turns tighter then when it rattles. I've loosened the front shocks and have adjusted the cam adjusters to 2. The sled is worlds different now. Just by messing around with the factory suspension I was AMAZED at how much can be done to get it to do what you want. Play with what you have now. My dad has the same exact sled and he tightened his limiter straps by 1/2" and he says I should too, but I'm going to leave that to my last resort.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (rtkat2 @ Jan 6 2007, 03:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Then loosen up the spring preload on the center shock. Then make sure the rear torsion spring tension is set properly for your weight. It should not move more than about two inches when you sit on it. If that's still not enough, crank up the preload on the ski shock springs. The stock skis will rail around corners when set-up properly, but for deeper/looser snow, you might want to buy a more aggressive ski.
Turn the coupler blocks to their highest setting, so that they allow less movement of the rear arm link.
Then loosen up the spring preload on the center shock. Then make sure the rear torsion spring tension is set properly for your weight. It should not move more than about two inches when you sit on it. If that's still not enough, crank up the preload on the ski shock springs. The stock skis will rail around corners when set-up properly, but for deeper/looser snow, you might want to buy a more aggressive ski.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (JaySond @ Jan 6 2007, 11:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I know that my Crossfire doesn't have extra holes drilled, but it doesn't need them, either. It will corner just fine with the other adjustments.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (DamageInc @ Dec 31 2007, 02:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
[/b][/quote]
I agree, mine are still in the factory holes as well. It bites hard in the corners, but I'm running C&A Razors w/ 6" shaper bars. Floats at 55 lbs. Sled seems well balanced and "happy" set up like this. Still has a little ski lift under hard acceleration, but it hooks up best that way.
I know that my Crossfire doesn't have extra holes drilled, but it doesn't need them, either. It will corner just fine with the other adjustments.
[/b][/quote]
I agree, mine are still in the factory holes as well. It bites hard in the corners, but I'm running C&A Razors w/ 6" shaper bars. Floats at 55 lbs. Sled seems well balanced and "happy" set up like this. Still has a little ski lift under hard acceleration, but it hooks up best that way.
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