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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I'm starting the process of getting to my belt to check the deflection for the first time. Do I have to remove the floor board to remove the belt cover? I've got all the bolts out and can't seem to jimmy the cover out. Also I'm assuming I need to detach the actuator(?) from the cover? Just the 4 bolts look like that will take care of it. Any tips on saving the seal between the belt cover and engine? I'd rather not have to replace it unless necessary. Any other tips are much appreciated. I would like to get in and out as easily as possible.

I've tried to get to KOD's website, but it looks like it is down right now.

Thanks,

Jake
 

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not completely out but completely loose but is easier out. won't need new gasket just take your time with old one. once all bolts are out and your pulling out there are a few dowels i believe (can't recall for sure) to help line up. just unplug the accuator, no need to unbolt.
 

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its eaisest to take the floorboard off thenunplug or remove the actuator and the belt case the case seal is a rubber seal that can be reused if you dont damage it its actuall a very simble project note if you measure your new belt width when you replace it you can randemly check the belt wear by measuring it periodically
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you guys have the rivet gun to replace the plastic rivets when you take the floor board off? I'll go loosen everything up and give that a shot. I just hate flexing the plastic to much. I just can't get use to flexing it some, but not to much. I don't mind working on cars, but for some reason these utilities have me gun shy.

Thanks,

Jake
 

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trick on the "rivets" is to use needle nose plires on the back side (inside the fenders) or if your real careful cutters will work and pull/pry straight out. it is a two piece setup, once you get one off you will see what i mean. used piece of flat steel or plires to push back together. i have taken off my plastic a few times and then ended up just getting all of the allen head/nut's like is on the end. newer cats come through this way allready from factory i believe, no more rivets. ordered online and were only around 8-10 bucks and work alot better for me since plastic is on and off a decient amt. two bolts on frame in center of foot rest (kinda a bit** to relign when you put back together), two bolts (10 mm i believe) that holds front bracket on, rivets and couple of allen bolts, rear support after you get everything loosened you can lift up on foot rest and get that off. seat off and unplug the accuator plug (one of the two on that side, just trace wires), all bolts and pull off
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, managed to get the cover out after loosening everything. It looks like I'm on the high side of the deflection (not a surprise). I'm hoping KOD's website comes up with the pictures for removing shims. I've looked at it so many times I should have it memorized. So from what I remember, I'll have to take a shim out to get the deflection on the lower side. While I'm in there I was wondering if I should change the springs. Most of the time I'm using the V2 to pull a small trailer and hunting. This year with a deer on and another guy, I thought I smelled the belt once or twice. It made here grunt a little bit. Does anybody have any suggestions from experience whether to change the springs or not and what colors. I guess if I changed them it would be for lower end torgue. I'll take any ideas or suggestions.

Thanks for your help,

Jake
 

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you are right, remove a shim to tighten the belt. removing one .01mm shim going to tighten the belt roughly 1.45mm (when measuring the deflention), I run mine with one shim removed and it is about 23-24mm

I also changed the clutch springs to EPI pink primary and black secondary, it gived me more low end power but just tightening the belt might help
 

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yep black secondary here also and recomend for what ya are looking for.
also one shim here also, watch for different size shims if there are two or more and start with the smallest first unless your math is good. watch the little buttons when taking clutch apart.
can get the black spring from outdoorshop on here also if you go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well KOD's sight isn't back up, so I need some more help. I was expecting to be able to use his site for pics. I've done searches on this site and NYROC, but just need a kick to go a little further and finish the project. Does anybody have some pictures to help a guy out? I've got the AC manual, but haven't found it much help for adjusting the belt(unless you have a specific page I missed). I've got everything open and ready to go. I just need some specifics to get through it the first time. I can't remember where the shims are exactly. Can someone give me there best process. Do I have to pull the clutch to get to them or just take off the outercover on the clutch where the main spring is? I don't have a puller, so do you have any tricks without it or do I need to go pick one up? If so, will any polley puller work?

Sorry for all the questions, but I would like to get it right the first time if possible and finish this project up tomorrow night to use the brute for some work this weekend.

I appreciate any comments,

Jake
 

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Did you remove the clutches or the belt yet? You do need a clutch puller to remove the primary clutch to take the belt off, because the secondary won't come off unless the belt is removed. If you don't have a clutch puller (the one needed has left handed threads) you can "walk off" the belt with out removing the primary. I have never done it that way, but I know that some people do. Regardless, once the belt is off you just loosen the nut on the secondary and pull it off. Make sure to keep track of your washers so when you re-assemble you put the washers back in the right direction (I put the washers on backwards once and when I tried to tighten the nut the shaft within the secondary started to turn, which is not good!). Once the secondary is off you need a spring compression tool (which you can make yourself) to compress the secondary spring so you can take the large c-clip off. Then you have to remove the 4 small rollers by just flicking them out with a screwdriver, and then the clutch will come apart in two halves. The shims are inside, just remove one. If you want to be really accurate, measure the thickness of the shim, as was stated above, for every .1mm shim removed you reduce deflection by 1.45mm. When I did mine I ordered a few sizes of shims to I could get it as close as possible.
The first time you do it, it's a pain, but the next time it'll be much easier.
 

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Please note that I am in NO way taking credit for KOD's work here. He's had issues with his site's stability, so I took the opportunity when it was up to get the info together in case it was needed later (like now). Cheers.
 

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On a side note, to get the belt off without a puller, you need to walk it off the secondary as described. However, a key trick to making life easy when attempting this is to simply take a piece of wood or the handle from a hammer (so as not to damage the belt) and pound the belt down into the secondary. That will spread the sheaves apart some, and thus make it incredibly easy to walk the belt off. You can almost do it one handed at that point. Trust me...done it many times with zero issues. I like to use a hammer with a rubber handle so as not to scuff the secondary sheaves.
 

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Wow Sanny , great info, nice pictures, at least you were smart enough to save them , This info is invaluable and even a rookie like myself could do a belt replacement . I have a 06 650v2 and this winter I got stuck in the snow and tried rocking it back and forth till I smelled rubber. I haven't had any other issues since and still hear the same sounds from the belt , what are my chances with the belt being ok?? I already have an extra belt but was waiting till the other shoe drops.
 

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two things to add, remember the direction of the belt and reinstall same way, mabey put a arrow on it with a magicmarker.
here is a picture of my clutch compressor tool that i made with the help of this site. threaded rod, washers, exhaust flange but if you don't have can use something else, just wouldn't recommend plastic products even though you could probably get away with it.
i also have taken off the belt without touching the primary, it can be done. secondary should just slide right off after nut is removed.
 

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I used a PVC fitting, but Kevin is right in the the metal is better. It'll slip less against the collar. THe PVC tends to walk on a guy.

As for your belt Catmandoo, I'd check it. If you only smelled it quickly and got off the gas, you're likely just fine. Still, I'd pop the cover off just to take a peek...just to be sure.
 

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My issue would be if I'm going in anyway I probably would want to change the springs, not sure to what, but I pretty don't care about top end, I 99.9% ride in low and maybe hit a top speed 45mph. Is there a combo of colors just for an all around setting where you don't have any belt issues? I have an 06 650v2 with 26" xtr's but might go to a bigger tire .I've never played with the clutch but like I said if I'm going in I'll go all the way. Any suggestions would be great.
 

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black spring at the least mabey even a almond, keeps the belt nice and tight. as for the primary many run the pink (little more stall before enguagement) but i kept mine stock, i do alot of rock crawling type stuff.
 

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Kevin sounds like you ride similar to me, so a black secondary is what you run?? Where can I get one?? I'll need a primary puller also to do the job right. This may be a pain but I'll feel some satisfaction when I get it done. Thanks for the info.
 

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i wouldn't get the puller but that's just me, for the money and if you were going to use it more than once probably a good idea. yes i run the black secondary spring. ods on here sell them but i don't know what brand, here is the puller.
http://www.theoutdoorshopinc.com/v3/produc...products_id=101

https://www.erlandsonperformance.com/mm5/me...egory_Code=cspr
kss3 i believe it is, see the almond is one stiffer than the black

i run 26inch bighorns and like the setup i have: black secondary, one shim, stock belt, stock primary.
 

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I ran 27" Mudlites and had an EPI black secondary and pink primary in mine and it rocked. I don't do the high speed stuff...45mph max and that's only out on the ice or straightaway trails. Otherwise, it's slow and go type stuff. Loved the setup.
 
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