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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done several Polaris and Ski-Doo track swaps, but never one with a DD. I switching my XF to a 144. Anybody have the basics?
 

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My buddy and I just switched ours to deep lugs and then back after we got back from Togwotee.

1. Pull sidepanels.
2. Pull off belt, secondary clutch, pipe and silencer.
3. Remove long bolt on brake caliper side.
4. Remove nut on brake disc.
5. Remove DD gearcase, disconnect speedo sensor.
6. Remove skid.
7. Remove trackshaft and track.
8. Install in reverse. After a couple times it can be done in an hour or less, easier than the chaincase style in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Having a hard time with the long bolt on the caliper side. Does the large nut need to come off first?
 

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I didn't have any need to remove the pipe and silencer on mine.
 

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Also, sometimes it helps if you loosen the track tension, especially when you put the DD back on. The long bolt is easier to put back on too! If you haven't changed you DD oil; do it when you have the case out.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (catrider800 @ Jan 12 2007, 07:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
My buddy and I just switched ours to deep lugs and then back after we got back from Togwotee.

1. Pull sidepanels.
2. Pull off belt, secondary clutch, pipe and silencer.
3. Remove long bolt on brake caliper side.
4. Remove nut on brake disc.
5. Remove DD gearcase, disconnect speedo sensor.
6. Remove skid.
7. Remove trackshaft and track.
8. Install in reverse. After a couple times it can be done in an hour or less, easier than the chaincase style in my opinion.[/b]
On my sled when swapping the track, I did not take off the brake nut. Instead I took the pads out of the caliper and unbolted the caliper bracket from the tunnel. Worked great. And no need for any special tools. And yes I too believe it is easier than the older chaincase style. Altough the rubber bumper on the clutch side can be alittle bit of a pain but with a little WD-40 not too bad.
 
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