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Discussion Starter #1
Just replaced the track drive shaft pto and chaincase bearings. After putting track back on and with the rear end elevated I cannot pull the track forward or backward without really hard hand cranking of the primary belt drive!!
What’s potentially happening as I know the new bearings were installed by the book and the shaft rotated freely before reinstalling the track assembly!
Help!
 

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Is the primary making contact with the belt? Shouldn't be unless the engine is running and high enough rpm for it to engage. Unless you mean the secondary. Track can be hard to turn if it is too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was using the secondary drive to try to rotate the track through before tensioning at the rear axle. The track seems really tight at the front of the rails and there may be a cross brace that is slightly bowed upwards causing the rails to “toe-in” resulting in extreme resistance at that point?? I suspect this may have caused the chain to snap. Since I was rebuilding the chaincase area, I thought it best to replace the bearings (drive axle)while I had it apart. The slide rail strips appear ok.

I may try to undue the cross brace in question and see if this relieves any issues.
 

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unless your explanation is wacked, you've really got this Effed up. Now I don't know how you can have the track rubbing on the primary and the skid rails "toed in" please try and re-state all this in sled language
 

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First, what sled are you working on to give us a better idea for answers. Track will be tight behind driveshaft when lifted.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sled is a ‘97 Panther 550. Should I not be able to easily pull the track by hand with the rear end lifted? I can do this on my ‘01 Skidoo 500 F!

If you read my post, the tensioners are fully slackened and I’m trying to figure out why the chain broke in the first place by at least eliminating any kind of slide rail assembly issue. With the belt off the clutch drive, it takes excessive force to rotate the clutch which is attached to the driven shaft which has the top chaincase gear at the end. Make sense yet, eh!
 

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Did you change or at least check the jackshaft bearings when you did the driveshaft bearings. One behind secondary may have seized up. Yes you should be able to turn track by hand when in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
When I disassembled the chaincase I found the chain backing bracket had broken and there was a nickel sized hole in the case cover at the 4 o’clock position. The chain was broken at that point and wedged against what was left of the bracket.
 

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You have pictures?
 

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The chain backing bracket was a common problem with the reverse chaincase. It probably failed causing the chain to break.
I think they wear if the bolt comes loose and then breaks, the updated part has a new piece welded on. For some reason my bracket is twice as much as yours although yours tripled in price also.


Toe in of your rails would not cause your chain to break, it could only be toed in so much unless your front cross brace is super bent, and only at the front. I doubt you could have bent the front arm holding the shock but I suppose it's possible.


Loosen your track fully and see how it turns. If it is still to hard you did something wrong. Check the brake and rotor and make sure it isn't holding up there. If its still too tight take the chaincase cover off and have a look. A new chain can be pretty tight, did you do the proper procedure for the auto chain adjuster. Pic included without auto adjuster installed yet. and new backing bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I will take the cover off and get some pics. My bracket broke at the same location as yours. When torquing the sprockets back on with the track fully slackened, I used the brake to hold it all. The jack shaft to clutch assembly was free and smooth before install.
 
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