Arctic Chat : Arctic Cat Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hi - bought a 92 lynx deluxe 340 of some stranger. Did usual stuff with carb/clutches to get it running like a top but i have a persistent problem. track seemed to be ratcheting so first think I did was tighten track. still had problem. even when track was overtightened I had problem. noticed that sprokets were in bad shape so i removed the 2 old sprockets that were there now on the driveshaft and pressed on 3 other used sprockets (ie extra one) which were in pretty good shape but not perfect. Then noticed that it looked like sprockets might at times be hitting rail tips. So I reduced thickness of tips so that they couldn't possibly be hitting. I thought the problem was eliminated! but today when I started pulling a heavy sleigh it happened again. it also happens when I pinned the throttle. NOt nearly as bad as it was but is happening at times.

I checked upper and lower sprockets and chain in chain case - nothing seems out of ordinary there. no stirpped teeth, no sign of metal debris, splines on driveshaft look perfect. Chain has automatic tensioner so assuming that's ok.

Note - track is old but seems ok. Could the track lugs rubber be so old that it really is just plain old ratchetting? Before shelling out big bucks for a track, is there anything else I should be checking?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
337 Posts
Note - track is old but seems ok. Could the track lugs rubber be so old that it really is just plain old ratchetting? Before shelling out big bucks for a track, is there anything else I should be checking?
Could be or another thing that comes to mind is either the track or the sprockets are the wrong pitch and not meshing correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Did you ever figure this out?

On my 1988 El Tigre 5000 I'm having the same issue.
Would ratchet real bad under load. The rubber cogs on the track look good.
Or at least they are all the same. Inside rows and outside.
The outer two drive wheel lugs were all chewed up where track clips are. (just the inside portion)
I pressed them off, turned them around and put back on opposite ends.
That way they were using the "good side" of the lugs, which looked fine.
Put things back and drove for about 100 miles. (all new bearings, chain/gears too)
I don't think the track was too tight as it would coast to a stop when up in the air.
No ratcheting, but when I checked things the same cogs are already showing signs of being chewed up.
Only where the clips are.

Could this be from worn out slide rails?
I don't have a "new" track to compare, but this one looks like my other sleds that aren't having this issue.
The stand on the clips does lay on top of the rubber lugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,362 Posts
Are these cleated tracks or are they rubber tracks?? The clicking could be not the track skipping. Could be the hyfax snagging the clips as it goes around see if the hyfax in the front hang down lower then the plastic tip protector. Also is the skid put in correctly. If you get the back shock tipped down behind the the wheels instead of floating over the tip the shock rod eye will come in contact with the track. I have seen this before its very easy to do if the skid was out. when you bolt the rear part of the skid in the shock should float above the idler wheels not go down and under if you look at the skid you will see what I am talking about. The rear shock bottom of shock is hooked to a J shaped bracket it has to swing above the wheels. If it swings back behind the wheels it goes down and wedges.
Also make sure someone didnt put the wrong pitch drivers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Not sure about deanpeddle, but for me it definitely was ratcheting.
The noise never came back after turning the drive wheels around.

But I parted out the sled before they too got worn to the point it
would have started again.

This is with a rubber track. I'm not sure how to tell if it's still good.
would worn slides cause it?
I did notice that the tunnel protectors seemed to be thinner than the heat exchangers. But it doesn't have studs.
It also was a little cracked behind most of the bumps on the outside of each "cleat". (again rubber track)
I'll try and post a picture this weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Don't know about dean, but I solved my problem.

Seems a previous owner decided to replace the drive wheels with the wrong ones.
I never noticed because I didn't have anything to compare them with side by side.
Pulled the shaft out of my 1985 6000 and I was shocked.
The drive wheels were about an inch smaller in diameter and the outer ones have uneven lugs.
So the reason the "wrong" ones were getting chewed up wasn't because of the track, it was because the clips were contacting lugs.

According to the numbers on them, the wrong ones are from a 1992 Jag, with the track that is supposed to use two wheels instead of three.

So now I have another question, will using a larger drive wheel give you more top speed? Assuming that the engine can still pull the same rpms?
This sled always seemed to spin the track more than it's twin.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top