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Timing--- Crank---Cam--valves

5628 Views 26 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  CatProwler
2007 Powler XT 650h1 is what I have. I have no regrets I bought it cheap...and seller told me they could not get it started. What I was told was they took it out, went through a major mud puddle...and it died and would not start up to run again. Well, after I washed all the mud off the motor, inside cab, outside cab...two days later I could actually see what was underneath all that mud! Important note: while I was looking around, checking for spark and wire, computer connections...I did notice permeant marker marks on the top end as someone had taken it apart some time ago..perhaps to change the Cam chain? but..I figured they did a good job cuz it ran and got mud all over it...but due to the blow back I was getting at the carb...and the erratic way it was sparking at the plug ... , I went back in my head with all the small engine stuff I had gotten into...and my first thought was a sheered flywheel key. But that was on small engines with weak keys...I wouldn't think they'd use a weak key for a beast motor like this...so I watched a video of a guy checking the top end Cam chain and timing! What the hell...someone in the past was in there doing what? all them red permeant marker marks. Well...I took the top end off...before that I opened the eye hole for the timing at the crank(flywheel) lined up the line at TDC all valves closed....then I take top cover off and look at the Cam timing...it should be left to right edge of casting as a guide...well....IT WAS NOT...it was more UP and DOWN...I'm checking this out and there's no way that I can see this new looking chain to have jumped that much! So?? back to my old thought?? Key is sheared and flywheel is stuck in funny spot? or.......piston rod is slipping on the crank?? Am I missing something some thing here? I have a stupid question too...on small engines...if I was turning the flywheel by hand and I went past where I wanted it to be...I could just reverse my rotation with my hand a little and get it where I wanted it...On this thing.....I can only rotate it in one direction!!????????? Thinking out loud with ya folks here...so any thoughts or idea's to all this...what could I be missing or should check? I have NOT taken the cover off yet to see the flywheel...as it will envolve undoing the water pump too and the clutch arm.
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Wasted spark single cylinder engines do all kinds of weird things with timing. My 04 400 ran 22 degrees out of time.

Check your tensioner and look down the cam chain to check the guides. You should pull the head and make sure valves didn't contact piston that far out of time. I don't believe cat builds interference fit heads so you SHOULD be ok but still worth a look.

Did you check piston position using a stick/screwdriver or are you just TDC on flywheel? Pull spark plug, put something long down the hole to move with the piston, ensure piston TDC is at timing mark TDC.

BEFORE YOU REMOVE the cam gear... Run a piece of mechanics wire through the chain under the gear. If the chain drops down I believe you need to split the other side of case to recover it. It sucks.. trust me.

I feel it's highly unlikely they had the flywheel off ever, you need the special puller, they didn't fail on those rigs.

Eratic spark.. cat runs a wasted spark system, it sparks every TDC, not just compression, makes it look weird visually and to the brain.
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Sounds like you're on the right track, oil pump and water pump potential damage or failure.
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If the filter was dry, I would look a bit closer at the oil pump and the oil pump check valve
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If the relief valve went bad and is stuck open then oil isn't reaching top of engine.

If oil isn't reaching top then everything is drying out, trying to find why that cam chain got stuff like that.

You could be right that coolant was low and things got hot. Also if cam timing was off like you said that could cause excessive heat to linger longer in the top end than is healthy.

If it was me, I would be pulling oil pump and relief valve to inspect when I was this far in, if you're doing piston and chain already I would chase down any potential cause to no oil travel before I put it together and risked all my new parts.
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I've definitely seen guys add oil pressure/temp and water pressure/temp gauges to their UTVs and ATVs.

Be careful with a hone I'm not sure if the 650h1 is a nikasil cylinder or not, someone here can confirm I'm sure.

Be careful where you send for overbore, might be better to find a replated jug if its nikasil
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