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I was just wondering if anyone has had one of these tilt-a-rack atv carriers which hook on to the rear hitch. I've been reading about these lately and they have me intrigued. I used to haul my bike in the box of my ext.cab GMC shortbox 4X4 but I put a cap on the truck now and I'm back to using my trailer. I've read that the 700 model will handle up to 1000 lbs. "safetly" but they recommend a 3/4 ton and my truck is a 1/2 ton. The pic's off the site show a 1/2 ton using the trailer. I wouldn't mind one of these to haul my quad around as I hate using a trailer. My quad is a 500, with 27" tires, and with reading the spec's it might work to fit. So if anyone can give me some advise on this setup or anything else. it would be appreciated. Here's the link to the site.

http://www.easymobilityco.com/ATV_tilt_a_rack.htm

thanks
 

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I looked at a similar setup for carrying some items behind a motor home, then an SUV. One of the people I chatted with had worked something out to haul a motorcycle on the back and ended up tossing it.

From what I found, anything over 500lbs (maybe less) will cause a big difference in how your vehicle handles.

Keep in mind that many of the 500cc and up ATVs are in the 600lbs++ range, and bumps can substantially increase that force, I wouldn't use one of these. In my opinion, the risk of failure and/or damage is pretty high.

I small trailer isn't that much, and is much safer. It can also haul more gear :)

Just remember that a small trailer with small wheels is subject to sway, so watch your speed and load.

Worst case, I think U-Haul rents trailers for about $25/day for short term.

Hope this helps.

If I can find the links again, I'll post them here.

-DiskDoctr
 

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Have you ever had the occasion where you looked at something and your immediate first impression is "something doesn't look right"?

When I looked at the link and saw that set up, that what I thought. Something just doesn't look right. Might be O.K. for light loads. I doubt if I would use one at all let alone put a 700 lb. ATV on it. Get a good trailer.
 

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I have a VersaHaul. Similar idea, except it uses quick-detach/deploy ramps instead of having the entire rig tilt.

The truck's reciever capacities are 1200 pounds tongue, 12,000 trailer. The payload capacity of the truck is 4,500 pounds. It's an E-350 SuperDuty with air assist front & rear springs. In the pics, I didn't add extra air to the suspension yet. The truck weighs 5880 pounds empty, it's going to be even more with the extra stuff I carry. When the 160 liter gas tank is full, it's going to add even more weight.

The weight of the ATV out back didn't ruin the handling of the truck, probably because the truck is so darned heavy. The weight of the ATV just isn't enough to pull the front wheels off the ground on this one. But on lightweight pickups that weigh half of the weight of this van, it might be a problem... I cannot know. So if handling issues are a reality, it would depend on the truck you have.

It has been an excellent product. I would recommend it to anyone who is not interested in owning a trailer or has problems with trailer storage, maintanence, associated costs, ease of theft, etc. This one stands up against the wall in the shop, it doesn't sit outside in the rain and sun as a trailer would... There are no tires to rot off and won't rust to crap because storage is easy.

I actually own the one in the pictures, so I'm not guessing. This is first hand experience testimony talking. Even though someone else may think it looks funny, that's just an opinion about appearance. Many who have seen mine thought it looked real cool.

Also, it isn't any less safe, if used on a truck heavy enough and made to carry the load... The products are made for it, might even be safer in a bad traffic situation where a trailer might be worse. If you have to haul more gear, you have the room in the back of your truck because the ATV isn't in the pickup box anymore.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both trailers & these carriers, I'm sure if someone tried hard enough they could come up with a long list for both.

The key here is to buy what you want, not what other people want you to buy. Never buy something to make someone else happy. Just make sure your truck is heavy duty enough to handle it. If it isn't, either get a heavier truck or use a trailer instead.
 

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I had a local fabricator make a 36" x 60" platform for the same purpose. It has expanded metal as a bottom on a frame. I use it to put the 90 arctic cat on the rack while I put the 500 cat in the box of the truck. It works amazing. I had it made for $300. and painted it myself.
I think that they want too much for theirs. :thumbsup:
 

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I wonder how it stands up on rough roads. When I go bowhunting elk the roads going in are all gravel surface, then logging roads full of potholes and trailering really sucks! I'm really particular as to the condition of my equipment so trailering is usually done at a snails pace when on loose surfaces to avoid stonechips ect. My hunting partner is a welder by trade and we have been kind of playing with this idea so if we get one built I'll post some pics.
 

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No way would I advise some one to use this unit on a 1/2 or even a 3/4 ton truck.
First on over hang you will be dragging from the over hang when you get in bad routs. When the front of the truck goes up the rack gets closer to the ground. I have a 3/4 ton dodge diesel and the factory hitch was only rated at 500# ball weight, and that is with hitch of the trailer. With this unit you will have 700 to 800+ # on the bar. (that is bike, gas gear, + rack weight total)
The weight with this unit will be worse than a trailer ball since the tongue is right at the bumper where the rack is weight 4 feet + past the bumper. The farther back the weight on a bar in a case like this the more it strains the hitch assembly and the whole truck itself.
Best way to think of this unit is using a crow bar to tear some thing apart, the longer the bar the more force
you have to do the work and damage.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mile Hi Outlaw @ Mar 11 2007, 01:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
No way would I advise some one to use this unit on a 1/2 or even a 3/4 ton truck.
First on over hang you will be dragging from the over hang when you get in bad routs. When the front of the truck goes up the rack gets closer to the ground. I have a 3/4 ton dodge diesel and the factory hitch was only rated at 500# ball weight, and that is with hitch of the trailer. With this unit you will have 700 to 800+ # on the bar. (that is bike, gas gear, + rack weight total)
The weight with this unit will be worse than a trailer ball since the tongue is right at the bumper where the rack is weight 4 feet + past the bumper. The farther back the weight on a bar in a case like this the more it strains the hitch assembly and the whole truck itself.
Best way to think of this unit is using a crow bar to tear some thing apart, the longer the bar the more force
you have to do the work and damage.[/b]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
No way would I advise some one to use this unit on a 1/2 or even a 3/4 ton truck.[/b]
You don't have to, they already did. I'm sure they did their homework being in the sue happy world that we are in. I have had way worse loads on the hitch of my truck and it didn't bother it to say the least. You better step up to a good hitch if all your rated for is 500#
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (modn @ Mar 11 2007, 01:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I'm sure they did their homework being in the sue happy world that we are in. I have had way worse loads on the hitch of my truck and it didn't bother it to say the least. You better step up to a good hitch if all your rated for is 500#[/b]
On the VersaHaul site, there's a chart... You look up your vehicle, and it gives you max load for your vehicle when using the unit.

Mine was well over, for my cargo weight... It's a class 5 reciever and the truck is heavy-duty enough.

The rear of the unit doesn't seem to end up lower than the ground clearance of the middle of the truck. But I'll point out that I pump the air springs up to max pressure when I have the ATV on the rear.

Up here, the roads aren't exactly race tracks. I live in the country, pot-holed rough dirt roads are common. I've had the unit since nearly the beginning of ArcticChat, and there has been no damage to the unit, ATV or truck. No damage at all.

Modn's probably right... If it didn't work out well enough, the companies wouldn't be making them only to invite law suits... And I'll add the DOT or MOT would likely have outlawed them by now.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (modn @ Mar 11 2007, 01:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mile Hi Outlaw @ Mar 11 2007, 01:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
No way would I advise some one to use this unit on a 1/2 or even a 3/4 ton truck.
First on over hang you will be dragging from the over hang when you get in bad routs. When the front of the truck goes up the rack gets closer to the ground. I have a 3/4 ton dodge diesel and the factory hitch was only rated at 500# ball weight, and that is with hitch of the trailer. With this unit you will have 700 to 800+ # on the bar. (that is bike, gas gear, + rack weight total)
The weight with this unit will be worse than a trailer ball since the tongue is right at the bumper where the rack is weight 4 feet + past the bumper. The farther back the weight on a bar in a case like this the more it strains the hitch assembly and the whole truck itself.
Best way to think of this unit is using a crow bar to tear some thing apart, the longer the bar the more force
you have to do the work and damage.[/b]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
No way would I advise some one to use this unit on a 1/2 or even a 3/4 ton truck.[/b]
You don't have to, they already did. I'm sure they did their homework being in the sue happy world that we are in. I have had way worse loads on the hitch of my truck and it didn't bother it to say the least. You better step up to a good hitch if all your rated for is 500#[/b][/quote]

I think what Mile is saying is that the tounge weight is rated at 500lbs


I would not trust this with my ATV on it, but that is just my opinion
 

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YoungGrandpaCat statement was:

“So if anyone can give me some advise on this setup or anything else. it would be appreciated. Here's the link to the site.”

My advise was:

No way would I advise some one to use this unit on a 1/2 or even a 3/4 ton truck.
First on over hang you will be dragging from the over hang when you get in bad routs. When the front of the truck goes up the rack gets closer to the ground. I have a 3/4 ton dodge diesel and the factory hitch was only rated at 500# ball weight, and that is with hitch of the trailer. With this unit you will have 700 to 800+ # on the bar. (that is bike, gas gear, + rack weight total)
The weight with this unit will be worse than a trailer ball since the tongue is right at the bumper where the rack is weight 4 feet + past the bumper. The farther back the weight on a bar in a case like this the more it strains the hitch assembly and the whole truck itself.
Best way to think of this unit is using a crow bar to tear some thing apart, the longer the bar the more force you have to do the work and damage.


The rating is still 700# not 1000# The 500 cat weights 692# dry. Add oil and gas plus the list of other items that he has on the ATV (Less the 60” snow plow)

2005 500 4x4 manual
Warn 2500 winch
AC front and rear bumper's
60" AC snowblade
rear cargo box
AC storage box
rear side protector's with foot pegs
windshield
AC light bar with dual lights
hand and thumb warmer's
block heater
27X9X12 front tires
27X11X12 back tires
Mud Lites XTR Radials


and I come up with no less then 1025+ lb. for the bike; and the rack is rated as MAX of 700# And how much is he carrying in the storage boxes. Another 100 to 200#

Now take the bike and rack and you have 1100 hanging off a class IV hitch that is rated at 1000# tongue weight. Even the class V hitch that is a 2 ½ receiver is only rated at 12000# tongue.
And as I said before this is not tongue weight since it is 4 feet past the ball location. The hitch manufacturer will now multiply the weight by some number for each foot of added distance past the end of the hitch.
Now hit a bump in the road or drainage ditch at an intersection or RR crossing.
When the rake or hitch manufacturer ask how much weight you were carrying you can kiss your money and warrantee good by.
Have an accident and watch there layer claim you were driving an unsafe vehicle.
 

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Read #9...I think they know what they are doing. So you wouldn't run it, that is fine, But a lot of people would.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (modn @ Mar 12 2007, 06:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Read #9...I think they know what they are doing. So you wouldn't run it, that is fine, But a lot of people would.[/b]
I'd imagine they've tested them till they broke, so they'd have a clue about the actual breaking point or other problems (reciever/truck)

Possibly why it worked so well for me with zero problems is because of a few variables that might not be the same for everyone.

The truck & reciever are definitley up to the job, this doesn't mean all trucks are. I carry all extra gas cans, & ATV gear in the truck, not bolted to or on the ATV. My ATV isn't weighed down with stuff, it's a lot lighter than stock, no racks, bumpers, no boxes, no extra stuff beyound stock... It's as light as possible, lighter than the brochure specs. There are a lot of variables here, it can't be the same for everyone, most people bolt tons of weight to their ATVs for some reason.

Well, after having it for a few years... All the bad stuff... Didn't happen.

Like I said in a post above: It can work, it has worked for me. I've had it for years with zero problems. And yes of course... Anyone considering getting a carrier has to check & confirm the weights & capacites of everything and stay within specs & recommendations of all the manufacturers... Truck, reciever, ATV carrier, etc. If you don't have the right truck, reciever, or your ATV is too heavy... Yeah, get a trailer. If specs & capacities don't 'fit', or if you don't like it, or you don't think it's going to work for you, don't buy it. No one's recommending that you overload anything.
 

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in my mind i don't see it lasting. to have that much weight suspended that for from the hitch sounds bad. but i am only a tow boater not an engineer so i could be wrong and AG's set up is proving me wrong.
i am hard headed, however and would not trust it. that is my opinion.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (modn @ Mar 12 2007, 06:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Read #9...I think they know what they are doing. So you wouldn't run it, that is fine, But a lot of people would.[/b]
I think they are pretty cool, but I too, wouldn't trust them. #9 probably covers their butts, but how many people do you know would put it on any vehicle, just because they have a 2" receiver, so it must be good enough? You know it happens.

I submit for evidence the following:

This item is sold by Cabelas:

[attachment=66216:i520938sq01.jpg]

It states on their website:
"This extender will reduce your hitch's overall tongue weight capacity by 2/3 of original capacity. Example: 600 pound tongue capacity would be 200 pounds."

Now I know that is dependent on the length, and they don't differentiate between the 7, 14 or 18s, but still.

Evidence #2:

Can't you just see this guy

[attachment=66217:eek:verload...car_roof.jpg]

using one of these?

[attachment=66218:i520940sq01.jpg]
 

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Just remember that their calculated tongue capacity is directly proportional to a trailer that is 85-90% heavier than the tongue capacity. Basically they are calculating its strength by your trailer being 3300-5000# with a 500 lb tongue weight maximum. My point is that you are not pulling that weight which directly affects the pressure being put on the hitch obviously. Or for another point, how come I can hang a 8' Fisher plow off the front end 4' with 6 bolts and that is not a problem? Just a tad more than 500# there.

Would I want one? No, I'm a trailer guy with the biggest hitch available on my truck along with a goose neck ball and a fifth wheel hitch. But I can see where it would be pretty handy for the right condition.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (modn @ Mar 12 2007, 10:31 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Just remember that their calculated tongue capacity is directly proportional to a trailer that is 85-90% heavier than the tongue capacity. Basically they are calculating its strength by your trailer being 3300-5000# with a 500 lb tongue weight maximum. My point is that you are not pulling that weight which directly affects the pressure being put on the hitch obviously. Or for another point, how come I can hang a 8' Fisher plow off the front end 4' with 6 bolts and that is not a problem? Just a tad more than 500# there.

Would I want one? No, I'm a trailer guy with the biggest hitch available on my truck along with a goose neck ball and a fifth wheel hitch. But I can see where it would be pretty handy for the right condition.[/b]
Yea, I understand. I just personally wouldn't use one, as they don't look like a good idea to me. A lot of stress on one spot.

I'll be weary of following someone with a big pig on one as well. Like I implied in my post, you just can't count on someone elses intelligence in using them.

Jay
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ArcticDad @ Mar 12 2007, 11:36 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (modn @ Mar 12 2007, 10:31 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Just remember that their calculated tongue capacity is directly proportional to a trailer that is 85-90% heavier than the tongue capacity. Basically they are calculating its strength by your trailer being 3300-5000# with a 500 lb tongue weight maximum. My point is that you are not pulling that weight which directly affects the pressure being put on the hitch obviously. Or for another point, how come I can hang a 8' Fisher plow off the front end 4' with 6 bolts and that is not a problem? Just a tad more than 500# there.

Would I want one? No, I'm a trailer guy with the biggest hitch available on my truck along with a goose neck ball and a fifth wheel hitch. But I can see where it would be pretty handy for the right condition.[/b]
Yea, I understand. I just personally wouldn't use one, as they don't look like a good idea to me. A lot of stress on one spot.

I'll be weary of following someone with a big pig on one as well. Like I implied in my post, you just can't count on someone elses intelligence in using them.

Jay
[/b][/quote]


I'm with you on that one!!! I have seen some things that just are not right. I have passed a few trailers that were loaded totally stupid before. Get away.....way away!!!
 

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YoungGrandPa Cat you said you have a 1/2 ton short bed 4x4 that you use to Carry the ATV in before you got the cap. You did not say if the hitch is class IV or not. Now that you have the cap what do you use the bed of the truck for. With the cost of the basket and if you have to install a new hitch you would still be over weight and have spent over $1100.
What if you were to sell the cap and get a new cap with a door big enough to get the ATV through. Years ago I had a cap that I had a door that was more than high enough to get my ATV through and Carry it in side the cap.The nice thing about this way no one know that I had an ATV since it was out of sight. With the 6 foot bed you would have to leave the tail gate down and the doors open but this would be safer than the rack.
 
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