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Help me choose one option :

OPTION 1: Keep my 2001 Thundercat 1000 which is stock, (other than studs and reverse added),, with about 2500 miles on it, BUT re-work the entire sled so that I have much better traction,,,,,,AND, have a more upright seating position (boss seat, modify existing seat with more cushion/height, etc..),,,,,AND, modify the engine/clutch so I end up with about 190/200 hp while still on pump gas,,,,AND, have better/smoother suspension (used M10 for instance).
And doing all this without spending more than "AROUND" $3000. Reliability is most important also !!!

OPTION 2: Just buy a newer, (not brand new), sled (considering an F1000 for instance).

I ride in central NY on mostly groomed/quick trails with the occasional lake on the menu. I weigh about 230lbs.

The Thundercat is in excellent condition and has never been abused by me or the original owner,,both of which are not young riders. (i did the water pump seal/impeller,, and had all 4 shocks rebuilt months ago). I love that triple power and ease at which it works.

If you recommend OPTION 1 to me,,,please give me details to which parts/kits (hooper, D&D, M10, clutch kits, etc, that you would go with).

Yes, this is kind of a tall order,, but nothing beyond the Arcticchat capabilities !
Thanks in advance
 

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option 1
port cylinders and case get the crank trued and welded, fox floats in front and rear, torque arm for engine,vforce reeds,pipes jaws are the favorite, clutch kit from snow800, and as for option 2 I hear so many sob storys about guys that sell there Tcat and wish they didnt just my 2 cents
 

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I would almost hate to take that machine from original. I would leave it and keep it mint for the memories - enjoy a few rides a year. The newer sleds are so much nicer to ride. IMHO the only way to get that kind of power in a reliable sled on pump gas is to go to a 4 stroke modded turbo then even 300 HP is possible on a trailable machine that won't kill your back on long rides.
 

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Help me choose one option :

OPTION 1: Keep my 2001 Thundercat 1000 which is stock, (other than studs and reverse added),, with about 2500 miles on it, BUT re-work the entire sled so that I have much better traction,,,,,,AND, have a more upright seating position (boss seat, modify existing seat with more cushion/height, etc..),,,,,AND, modify the engine/clutch so I end up with about 190/200 hp while still on pump gas,,,,AND, have better/smoother suspension (used M10 for instance).
And doing all this without spending more than "AROUND" $3000. Reliability is most important also !!!

OPTION 2: Just buy a newer, (not brand new), sled (considering an F1000 for instance).

I ride in central NY on mostly groomed/quick trails with the occasional lake on the menu. I weigh about 230lbs.

The Thundercat is in excellent condition and has never been abused by me or the original owner,,both of which are not young riders. (i did the water pump seal/impeller,, and had all 4 shocks rebuilt months ago). I love that triple power and ease at which it works.

If you recommend OPTION 1 to me,,,please give me details to which parts/kits (hooper, D&D, M10, clutch kits, etc, that you would go with).

Yes, this is kind of a tall order,, but nothing beyond the Arcticchat capabilities !
Thanks in advance
buy newer. the newer sleds will ride some much better reguardless of what you do to MR Tcat. The Tcat will still be faster on the lake. Look into a Z1 turbo carry over or used.
 

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The 2 best options out there right now in 2-stroke land are pretty much tricking out a triple or going with the 2004 Snow Pro chassis with an F-1200 twin in it. The weight of the triple is 150-200lbs heavier than the real snow pro chassis. Put a light 144 inch paddle on the sno pro and they are a very quick/fast sled. Buddy built one.....he said his was in trail mode at the time...i have no reason not to believe him...and his 1200 twin sled was very fast for a trail sled. I mean it had the large throttle bodies on it, was about as light as you could get it, hooked up hard, realalistically around 190-210hp at the most...but when the sled is 200lbs lighter, hooks hard, is tuned in...ect...it is very hard to beat out on the trails. Trust me, that combo will run away from any stock T-Cat, modded T-cat with stock cylinders and most t-cats with big bores punched out of stock cylinders. He was clocked at 99mph in 500ft on Snow...ON SNOW! for those of you who don't know how fast that really is...I am telling you 100mph on snow in 500 feet is really moving for a trail sled. So, your issue is to try to sell the t-cat if you went in that direction...and you may not get much for it. So could you part with your t-cat for $2000 or less and then spend a total of $4000-$5000 to build an F-chassis with a 1200 twin in it. Or, you can keep what you have and spend an easy $3000 or more to run about the same as the sled I described above. Your triple will end up looking like mine when you're done with it for the most part. You will have to go thru the whole motor...aftermarket top end or other options because a Stock top end won't cut it for the most part. You can get 190-200hp out of a stock cylinder top end...but you will lack that last 10-20hp that different cylinders will give you to put you over the top and get you out front when running other trail sleds. Look at the Doo e-teks...they are about 450lbs and 160hp right from the factory and if the one I saw was ligit (They said it was stock with clutching) you will have a hard time beating one of those unless you mod quite a bit. Power to weight...that is where it is at and then hook it up. The pro of going with the triple: Lots of parts out there, won't cost a ton to make it go fast if you get the right combination of parts to start with. Triples pull nice on the top end. non efi so easy to work on. lots of proven packages out there. Cons: heavier chassis. Have to work harder to get them to hook up. Some parts are getting hard to find at times. Stuff like that. Don't buy an F-1000 they are heavy too...stuff an F motor in the light chassis. Lots of guys have done it by now and there are kits out there. My sled is what your end result will be if you go the triple route and I am very happy with how mine runs but I am giving up 150-250lbs to a lot of the new/newer sleds every time we line up so I have to have more hp to go by all of them and you better get a paddle on it if you want to get off the line with them. If I were starting from scratch with no sled...that would be a tough question...I would probably go the twin route because I've seen what a big bore twin can do not only in trail form but in race form too...and in the lighter chassis with the big bore twin in race mode is impressive. There is always someone faster...but out on the trail one of the 2 scinarios I described above are very hard to beat. One of the other interesting things you will see is once you get more hp depending on how you set up your sled will determine how much of it you can use. Buddy had a 180-185hp twin in a 136 with a paddle and on the trails that thing left the line very very hard...because the motor was just on the edge of overpowering the track...but couldn't. You just hit the throttle and it threw you back in the seat and you'd swear you have chisels on it running it on the grass it hooked so hard. Throw another 10-20hp at the same chassis...and you e.t.'ed slower because it would break the track loose and spin more. It had nice mid-range and top end but the lesser hp motor would actually e.t. lower. Look at the 2003 Firecats with the paddle tracks on them out on the trail. i still remember racing one for the 1st time and getting my butt handed to me. I had a lot more hp than they did but they were/are so light and when they hit the throttle they don't spin their paddle track at all..they just quick and left me eating snow dust shaking my head wondering what the heck just happened. Buddy has an F-7 with the 144" track with the 1.7 paddle on it. has a couple of simple mods done to it..runs on 87 all day long ect..and that thing will give anything a run for its money in 200-300 feet and unless you have a lot of hp in 500 feet he will still be ahead. That thing does not spin the track at all and might be 150hp at the most. Like I mentioned before...the Doo is 160hp and about as light as the 2003 F-7 so you can see why that thing runs good. I love the triples...but you will be fighting a weight issue with them when you line up against someone who has their homework done and stuffed a big twin in a light sno pro chassis let alone one of the doo e-teks with a big bore in it dialed in and hooked up.
 

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I may be partial but stick with the tcat.put a 136 in it and chisel it up. I ride wit sabercats and firecats. All of the guys are convinced mine rides smoother. If its done right, you can make big power and still have a dependable trail sed. I rode almost every weekend this season 150 - 200 miles a crack. Only open the hood to look once in a while...or put oil in.
From what i hear, if you want more power....forget about the m-10.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Wow,,thanks for all the advice (everyone). Keep em coming !
Blaine,,you really got me thinking about the Sno Pro Chassis and a big twin,,,,I like the idea of "lightweight". Although, I must say, I just did 141 miles on the Tcat last week any felt fine the next day (with some bad trails). But, I fully understand all your points and they are appealing. What are my chances of finding a Firecat/Sabercat (F-chassis) that wont have cracks of weld issues ?? And is the 1200 twin you mention a kit of whole engine ??

Another big issue though,,,I want to be more upright when riding and isn't the F-chassis (firecat,etc) seated like my Tcat ??
 

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Option one and go 136" with a crossfire or F skid. I would change the whole skid not just rails as the geometry has changed. Port the motor, reeds, jaws pipes, case mod, clutch it and let her rip!! Add a seat mod if wanted using a crossfire seat or similar and a set of bar risers if you want to stand. It will ride good and still be faster unless you want to spend a bunch of cash??? If you are going to do option 2 I would go with a crossfire with a HO or a turbo but the HO is lighter!!
 

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This is a tuff one. Contemplated this myself this winter after riding a used '12 turbo up north. After that ride, I was set on selling one or even both of my Tcats and getting a '12 or newer turbo. But then reality set in and the thought of spending 7-10 g's when the Tcat has been so damn reliable wasn't so appealing. I wanted to do this for two reasons...better seating position and mpg's. Just not worth the cash to do so in my mind. I was leaning towards an '11 leftover Z1 turbo...still a few around for 8-9,000.
 

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Wow,,thanks for all the advice (everyone). Keep em coming !
Blaine,,you really got me thinking about the Sno Pro Chassis and a big twin,,,,I like the idea of "lightweight". Although, I must say, I just did 141 miles on the Tcat last week any felt fine the next day (with some bad trails). But, I fully understand all your points and they are appealing. What are my chances of finding a Firecat/Sabercat (F-chassis) that wont have cracks of weld issues ?? And is the 1200 twin you mention a kit of whole engine ??

Another big issue though,,,I want to be more upright when riding and isn't the F-chassis (firecat,etc) seated like my Tcat ??
Was told the 04 chassis is the best..almost as light as the 03's, crack issues fixed and more cooling area. they also went with/have a higher seat for the F-Chassis....can't remember which year they changed to it...may have been 2006. The 1200 motor...well there are lots of ways to port them, different pipes ect...just get one that you know runs.....and not just on a dyno but at a track or against another known fast sled. Anybody can throw around dyno numbers. Why do I know so much about these 2 options...well I have option 1 right now...but am considering option #2 for my next project. Don't want to sell my current set up...it runs very good and I know the sled inside and out.
 
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