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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It’s my second year of snowmobiling and I traded up from a 94 V-Max to a 03 F5 SP, I’m having trouble over here in Japan because they don’t groom the trails and the only snocross I can attempt is on the MX tracks. The problem is that in the mountains or even getting “to” the track, the snow is too deep/powdery and I spend more time getting unstuck than riding (I know, nice problem to have this year huh? Sorry!). I just can’t seem to get “on top” of the snow, it’s kinda like a boat that won’t plane and if I stop I’m done. Is it the 1.35” X 13.5” X 128” track? Skis? Setup? Technique? I seemed to do better last year with my pitiful .5” X 15” X 121” V-max. I’m thinkin’ it’s the wrong sled and it’s like spending all your time off trail; probably not the best thing to do on a Sno Pro 13.5” X 128” Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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I would get like a really long 2 inch paddel track. Great for deep snow. Also some like 8 inch wide skis. Than just get a few mods into it or someway to boost your HP than you wont get stuck to often.
 

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I would look at some new skis. Something like SLP Powder Pros and a bigger lug track. There was a Ski test on HCS a few years back and the stock skis really plowed under the snow vs on top when they switched the skis to Powder Pros. I think the 13.5" track is not as good in the snow as a 15" wide track. Maybe 2" like CodyG suggests.
 

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Also need to mention the F5 is exactly a mountain sled :p or that great in the deep snow. If you have constant deep snow I would go for a mountain cat or king cat with a bigger engine size :p. Thats if u only ride in the mountains or really deep snow.
 

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All the above but technique is really important, probably the best mod for your sled! Deep powder riding is like riding a different animal all together and as such you have to ride differently. Throttle control and balance and momentum in the deep stuff. You probably already found out turning dont work by turning the bars. Just sometings to keep in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks everyone for all the good info. Last week after doing all my homework on the F5 setup to get better handling on the trail, we got 18" of heavy snow. With all that extra pressure on the front she sank like the titanic! Didn't do much for my confidence, but I did get a good workout! Smack Z-Yeah I definitely noticed she don't turn with the bars in the deep stuff! I was thinkin' I was getting good 'til last weekend! Ok, since for now my pref is to ride trail/snocrosss, I've decided to get the C&A razors (they're 1" wider) and then when it gets deep, set up the sled with less front end bite. When I get back to the states next year I think I'll add an M series to my toylist :thumbsup:
 

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check this out for a sec, I dont know how advanced a rider you are so I'm not nockin your abitlity, when ya got the sled parked get onit, stand and grab the bars and start leaning a lil right, you will notice you obviously are putting more pull pressure on the left side of the bars and if ya lean left there is more pressure on the right side of the bars. You lean to turn. When ya carve a turn aat first the skis are just an rch in the oppisite direction cause you are leaning and putting a pull on the bars. Your pressure on the bars transfers to the back of the inside ski in the turn and only on the inside ski as the other starts lifting up out of the snow. Its a crazy feeling at first and you will want to fight it but dont, let it go a lil. once that outside ski is up find that balance point to keep it up but dont lean so much that the track comes all the way out of the powder if it does you loose all forward momentum.If you do lean too much well so what, you will just fall over, your going to slow for it to hurt.. its all about finding that balance on the sled. Ride it like a seadoo its like being in water. Now staying on top of the snow is alot of throttle control, too much and you dig and sink, too little and your skis will not stay up as you dont have enough push(weight transfer). Also remember you have to use momentum its your best friend in the deep stuff. just some stuff to try out a little. Again if you already know these things and are applying them then nevermind the post. If ya dont well try it for little bit. The standing on your sled exercise while you are stationary will help you feel the lean and pull on the bars. Oh when you get that outside ski up then you can turn the bars ever so slightly and you will notice instead of riding a rail straight you will start turning a lil. Then start practicing and your there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks SmackZ I'm definitely a rookie at this, so all info/tips are much appreciated. I've been riding MX most of my life and staying away from the snow but got turned on to Snowmobiling last year, I'm hooked...now all those cold places are starting to look OK! Plus after seperating my pelvis on my dirtbike last March the wife ain't too keen on MX right now (don't tell her how dangerous snocross and avalanches are just yet). Anyway I look forward to trying out your techniques. I knew momentum was important but I didn't have enough confidence/skill to keep it moving while dodging trees and posts! I'll be practicing in a nice open area this weekend!
 

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this trick may or may not work but it helped with my 121" 3/4 lug track on my HEAVY 92 wildcat 700. i had the same problem getting the front to lift due to the weight issue and short lugs at slower speeds. i started to hang my legs behind the bumper and lay down on the seat when going slow and trying to pick up some speed, after doing this i was getting stuck about 60% less. again this has to do with the weight transfer and may not work on a lighter sled like an f sled, but its something to try.
 
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