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So you want to replace the drive shaft bearing(s) on your T660 Turbo eh? Well I wrote this up to walk you through the process. This is not a perfectly detailed step by step how to, this is more an outline of the steps involved. I’m not sure this job is for the faint of heart, while I didn’t encounter and major problems, be prepared to take a bunch of stuff apart.

First off, start by removing the belt and driven clutch. You have to remove the vent above the left hand foot hold and remove a bolt on the left hand side. There’s also a screw that’s under the good. Once you’ve done this you can pull the belly pan out to slide the driven clutch off.



Once the driven clutch if off, get the back end in the air and loosen up the track. I loosened mine up as much as I could, this will be very helpful later on.

Next I removed the bearing cover/spedo sending unit cover. There are three nuts that need to come off, just slide the cover off when you have the nuts off.



Go over to the other side of the sled and get ready to start digging. First remove the battery and set it aside. Then remove the Muffler, there’s 5 springs, 2 on the back, 1 on the front inner corner and two on the connector pipe. After that remove the battery bracket plus the muffler support. I then removed the reverse **** lever, and its attached bracket. You will have to unplug the reverse alarm button and remove it and its bracket as well.

Sorry for the lack of pictures here, I got busy and forgot to take them.

I used my oil extractor (which is also very useful for changing the oil on your T660, everyone should have one!) to suck the oil out of the case. This is really handy, and much cleaner then the alternative (pulling the cover and trying to catch the oil using paper towels).

Now it’s time to remove the chain case cover. I forget how many bolts but I’m sure if you’ve made it this far this step is a piece of cake. Once the cover is off, you will need to remove the bolt that holds the gears on to the drive shaft. There was a tab lock on my machine, but it wasn’t really bent up that far and I removed the bolt with out even knowing it was there.



You will need to pull the chain tensioner, back and use the set crew in the tensioner housing to hold it back. Remove the chain, and then remove the gears to expose the bearing cup. Make a note of the order the gears came out, there’s spacers that need to go back in all in the right order. Remove the three nuts that hold the bearing cup on.



Back on the clutch side it’s time to tap out the bolts that hold the bearing cup together/the cup to the tunnel. Once the bolts out, push the drive shaft towards the chain case side, and then slide the bearing off the chain case side of the drive shaft.



Now it’s time to wrestle the drive shaft out. This would probably be much easier with two people. I did it by my self, so it is possible but be prepared for a fight!


Note: This picture shows the bearing off while the drive shaft is still in the machine. I thought maybe I could replace it while it was still in there but couldn't, sorry if it caused any confusion)

Now that the drive shaft is out it’s time to remove the bearing. It’s lightly pressed on, so you’re not going to be able to just slide it off. I used a two jaw puller and it came off easily. I should note that I removed the magnet from the end of the drive shaft to avoid damaging it with the puller.

Now to put it all back together….Just do the opposite of what you did to take it apart! :D I’m not going to go into detail here, but I will give you a few pointers. I just tapped the new bearing back on to the shaft, taking care to only hit on the inside of the bearing. When I reinstalled the magnet, it looked like it was glued in, but to be honest it came out so easily I’m not really sure. To be safe I used some silicone to make sure the magnet stayed in place.

Putting the drive shaft back in is just as much of a fight as pulling it out, maybe more. Slide it info the chain case side, then reassemble the bearing cup on the clutch side and bolt it all back together. Do the same on the chain case side, make sure you get the O-Ring on the cup back in there. Again, this is probably a two person step, but can be done by one with a little leverage, brute strength and maybe a few cuss words. :D

Remember to clean out/wipe out and then refill your chain case, the T660 takes 12oz of oil (one AC container). Take the opportunity to checkout your clutch. I had to clean up the shaft and key, they were pretty rusty which surprised me (this is a garaged machine). I also coat the shaft with some grease to prevent sticking.

Take care when tightening up the track, your manual gives you the correct settings.

I hope this helps.

EDIT: Clarity, also if anyone else has anything to add to this process I would be happy to add it to the original post!
 

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:wow: Awesome!
I want to thank you for going through the trouble and effort of explaining the fun job of this bearing replacement! I don't quite have 600 miles on my 2006 T660 Turbo Touring LE, therefore I have a little ways to go before I can get my hands greasy on this non-greaseable bearing that AC made so handy for keeping maintained. I guess it's all part of owning a snowmobile. I would also say at this time, I would buy this sled all over again. Simply said, my wife & I love it!! ;) Thanks again!
 

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Kopeck,

In your first photo, is that a small crack on the starter motor bracket? I am referring to the narrowest spot between the starter engage grear housing and the edge of the bracket. From the photo it appears there is a small crack starting. I looked for this in your photo, out of four t660 and four stroke sleds that I own three have broken in that same spot. You might want to check it out, hopefully it's nothing!!!
 

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Kopeck, Not worthy: You rock! Thanks for the detailed report. I am going to be tackling this in my 06 t660 touring very soon.
It is great to have people on this site like you that will take their time to help others out.
Thanks! thumbguy
 

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Discussion Starter #8
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (dukie @ Dec 30 2007, 11:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Kopeck, Not worthy: You rock! Thanks for the detailed report. I am going to be tackling this in my 06 t660 touring very soon.
It is great to have people on this site like you that will take their time to help others out.
Thanks! thumbguy[/b]
No problem. Good luck with it, it's not the worst job but it does take some time.

K
 

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Kopeck. That was very nice to take the time to help people out. Wish there were more post like this, very imformative.
PHJ..... good eye. It give's people an idea of where to look on there own sled. :thumbsup:
 

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On my 2006 T660T the secondary is held onto the jack shaft by what appears to be a plactic ring. Other machines I've owned have the secondary clutch held to the jackshaft with a bolt.
How do I get the secondary clutch off the 06 T660T jackshaft for cleaning and grease?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (cat don @ Jan 13 2008, 09:38 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
On my 2006 T660T the secondary is held onto the jack shaft by what appears to be a plactic ring. Other machines I've owned have the secondary clutch held to the jackshaft with a bolt.
How do I get the secondary clutch off the 06 T660T jackshaft for cleaning and grease?[/b]
Bolts still there, the plastic thing you see has a hole in the middle of it. I *think* it's 1/2, I used a short socket with an extension. You maybe have to pull the belly pan side out (instructions above) to get the socket in there.

That plastic thing is for adjusting the belt deflection.

K
 

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I did all this myself too, and found dropping the skid with the 4 bolts holding it in, made taking the drive shaft out, much easier. While the skid is out, you can check out all the other components too. Replacing the skid was not that hard, and I used a small racheting strap bound to the front bumper to draw the tension tight enough to align the second set of bolts on the skid.
 

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Clap Hi Kopeck,
I stated back in December of 2007 and I'll state it again :wow2: and thanks for the great Info. & Pic's.
I haven't tackled this yet but I will be in the spring of 2009 due to closing in on 3000 miles. I want to change it out "before" I have any issues with it. I have a question for you; While having the machine apart, is there any other bearings that you feel should be replaced that may be at your fingertips? Since bearings are relatively inexpensive, it may be a good time to go through everything. Also, is there anything else that comes to mind to look out for?
Cat happy Thanks a ton and have a fantastic, safe season!!!! Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would replace the bearing inside the chain case as well. The ones on the jackshaft don't worry me as much, especially since the one behind the secondary clutch has a grease fitting. Obviously check for gear wear and chain wear, at 3k you *shouldn't* find any problems. I also like to wipe everything down when I have it apart. Some folks may scoff at this but it's better then reaching in and coming out with a hand full of grease and dirt next time you go to work on it.

I didn't replace the bearing in the chain case, afterward I kind of kicked my self for not doing it when I had everything apart.

I'm going to be pulling it all apart again to install a new track. Maybe I'll snap some more photos and try for a better write up. I could also take some photos of what pulling the skid/checking the idler bearings & installing the track if anyone is interested. I'm going to do the same with my wife's '02 so I can compare and contrast (pretty much the Turbo is a pain to work on and the non-turbo will be easy with all that open space :p )

Oh, and yes, I will be changing the bearing in the chain case this time. ;)

K
 

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Hi Kopeck,
I for one really appreciate your help and photos. By all means, and I'm sure that I'm speaking for others as well; "The more info and help in taking things apart and putting them back together would be Awesome! I am so thankful that there are people out there like you that takes the time to help others. Your hands on experiance is truly a help. Again, a sincere thanks for passing on the fantastic info. Ray
 

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I'm about to put a new track on my T660, this thread looks like it will come in handy! I would also like to put a taller riser on so standing up pis a bit more comfortable. Kopeck said he went 4 inches. How much can you get without needing new brake an throttle cables?
 

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I put an adj. Rox Riser on mine and just made it w/ old brake line. I would say 4" is max. Eventually I broke down and replaced the brake line anyway but I hope I answered your question. I also have replaced all my bearings, adj. valves, replaced track w/Ripsaw, Hooked bars w/ Rox riser, Powder Pros. One mean ass, nice looking Turbo Touring if I say so myself. Ron
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (double r @ Oct 1 2009, 08:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I put an adj. Rox Riser on mine and just made it w/ old brake line. I would say 4" is max. Eventually I broke down and replaced the brake line anyway but I hope I answered your question. I also have replaced all my bearings, adj. valves, replaced track w/Ripsaw, Hooked bars w/ Rox riser, Powder Pros. One mean ass, nice looking Turbo Touring if I say so myself. Ron[/b]
WE NEED PICS!!!!!
 
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