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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a leak again and have successfully pulled the impeller shaft from the balance shaft. What has worked for you to insert the new shaft and get it to the proper depth? I measured the length at 1.580". Is that about right?

I am going to freeze the new shaft and am considering heating the end of the balance shaft with a heat gun. Does anyone have a proceedure that works well ?

BP
 

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BP

I just did my stepsons zrt 800 and did as you are doing. The only thing I did to put it in was to make darn sure it was straight before installing it. I just tapped it in. I put a bolt in and screwed it into the shaft . Then tap it with a brass hammer and it self centers. The correct way is to pull the shaft so you won't hurt the bearings while hammering. I sure alot of people do it this way. And yes the length sounds right for the shaft sticking out.
 

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my shaft measured 1.586 in the motor and I have 2 other ones on the bench that measure 1.587 and 1.59... so I put it to 1.586 the way it came out... I installed it the same as tcat446 did his... solved my coolant problem :thumbsup:


BM...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have replaced the shaft and impeller and the leak is stopped. I want to share some info with everyone.

It appears the shaft is actually made from a 10mm x 58mm pull dowel. The pull end is machined with flats to drive the impeller. This removes the case hardening so the flats end is soft and wears if there is any movement between the shaft and impeller.

To insert the shaft to depth, I put a large diameter 6mm fender washer under a 6mm hex head bolt on the flat end. I put a stack of 10mm washers on the shaft limit the insertion depth. Measure the washers with a vernier and flip them until you get 1.580 - 1.585" of washer stack. Put the shaft in the freezer, evernight is best. Heat the end of the balance shaft with a small pencil flame from a torch. Stop heating when water spray will steam. Don't overheat the bearing. Quickly tap the shaft in STRAIGHT until the washers are snug. Tap on the head of the bolt in the end of the shaft. Remove the bolt and washers. Measure the depth with the vernier, it should be right on.

Pack the balance shaft bearing with grease, and put the pump back together and use green locktite on the impeller to shaft flats. This will stop the movement and should stop the wear from starting. Let the locktite cure before adding coolant.

I have about 400 miles on the fix now and have not lost any coolant. I have been battling this leak for three years and it is clear that the impeller to shaft is more of a problem then the mechanical seal. If any slop is found, REPLACE the parts. It will save you a lot of swearing.

BP
 

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Something I forgot to mention was tossing out the philips screws and buying 6mm bolts for the water pump. Just don't overtighten the bolts. Since they are bolts there is a tendency to do that.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Big ***** @ Feb 9 2007, 08:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I have replaced the shaft and impeller and the leak is stopped. I want to share some info with everyone.

It appears the shaft is actually made from a 10mm x 58mm pull dowel. The pull end is machined with flats to drive the impeller. This removes the case hardening so the flats end is soft and wears if there is any movement between the shaft and impeller.

To insert the shaft to depth, I put a large diameter 6mm fender washer under a 6mm hex head bolt on the flat end. I put a stack of 10mm washers on the shaft limit the insertion depth. Measure the washers with a vernier and flip them until you get 1.580 - 1.585" of washer stack. Put the shaft in the freezer, evernight is best. Heat the end of the balance shaft with a small pencil flame from a torch. Stop heating when water spray will steam. Don't overheat the bearing. Quickly tap the shaft in STRAIGHT until the washers are snug. Tap on the head of the bolt in the end of the shaft. Remove the bolt and washers. Measure the depth with the vernier, it should be right on.

Pack the balance shaft bearing with grease, and put the pump back together and use green locktite on the impeller to shaft flats. This will stop the movement and should stop the wear from starting. Let the locktite cure before adding coolant.

I have about 400 miles on the fix now and have not lost any coolant. I have been battling this leak for three years and it is clear that the impeller to shaft is more of a problem then the mechanical seal. If any slop is found, REPLACE the parts. It will save you a lot of swearing.

BP[/b]
Awesome info, thanks for sharing. I gave up on mine and just did the seals and impeller.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tcat446 @ Feb 10 2007, 04:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Something I forgot to mention was tossing out the philips screws and buying 6mm bolts for the water pump. Just don't overtighten the bolts. Since they are bolts there is a tendency to do that.[/b]
I ended up using hex head bolts. Same idea tho, much easier to get off next time.
 

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Don't forget to replace the bearing or bushing that the shaft rides on while you do this. Get evrything, the shaft, the impeller if its hit the cover, the cover, the seal, and the bearing or bushing, and bolts. Why screw around with the engine out. It's no fun pulling it a second time. Been there, done that.
 
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