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I'm not exactly sure what you want to do either. You can look at adjusting the limiter straps though. This will have a big effect on whether you 'launch' on the holeshot or corner like your on rails.

Auger
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
looked at my limiting strapes and looks like there is no adjustment bolts to top frame and loops down through rails i though they had threaded rod hooked to strapes to adjust with
 

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You can drill new holes in the limiter strap or buy the Grip-n-Rip kit for $90. I would try drilling them in one inch increments, My '03 has three holes in the strap, so I don't think drilling would matter much. If you are looking to hook up better on take of you can take out the coupler blocks all together. This would give you all the transfer you can get. This will also make your sled light in the front so ski traction or pressure will sacrifice. You mentioned drilling new holes for the stop blocks (a.k.a. Coupler Blocks), they should have 3 settings you can use to tune the transfer. Stock= position 1. I wouldn't drill new holes in the rail, there is enough adjustment in the blocks.

NIGHTFIRE I would start out with this set-up for launch.

1: Front ski shocks loosened until spring rattle then tighten just until rattle stops (about 1-2 turns)
2: Rear suspension, loosen the front arm shock spring until loose then tighten 1-2 turns.
3: Let the limiter straps down to lowest hole moving the front of the skid down ( so the front of the track is flat with the ground )
4: Take the Coupler blocks out or leave them on the #1 position ( to keep some ski pressure )
5: Definately put studs in! At least 153, use the Stud Boy pattern or the Woody's, they will have the most scratch lines per studs. 1 to 1 1/2 studs per HP is a good start.

Losening the front ski springs will allow the weight to transfer back to the track instead of lifting them up in the air. The front arm shock in the rear suspension kept loose and no coupling blocks will allow the susp. to move freely under accelaration, keeping the whole track in contact with the ground and all of your studs grabbing for traction. NOTE: you can have too much transfer!! When you peg the throttle and all you see is blue sky, you might be riding on just the rear axle, which is less track and studs on the ground ( but cool as hell to see and feel ) WILL give you less traction. I had my '03 F7 S/P set-up like this and it launched awsome!!! The only thing is I am a corner carver, the sled felt real tippy with inside ski lift really bad. I changed my set-up alot but haven't been able to ride it yet with the snow fall we have yet to get since I was out last. Check out a post I posted a while ago under " How do you have your Firecat set-up? " in the search feature at the bottom left of the page. GOOD LUCK!
 

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listen more to slncapri...he's closer to what you need to do than sabercat500efi, who seems to be saying everything backwards from what the result will give you. BUT you have to let us know what it is you are trying to achieve here....better launch for drags only...better acceleration out of the corners while trail riding, or what. As said above, you can get too much transfer and actually cause a bigger problem. Set-up depends on what you are trying to get for an end result.....
 

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For launch you are gunna need to just add studs on your sled and tighten your front shocks until you cant move them anymore that will give you more track pressure.

On a firecat and most sleds there should be a few drilled holes already in your limiter straps. If you want to corner better you need to pull them up. Since you want to drag aparently you cant push them down anymore. Unless the guy before you did pull them up 1 or 2 and you need to just put it in the last hole.
 
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