I have a 1992 EXT 550 special and I had to drop the track to put new tunnel protectors in. Now that I'm trying to get the suspention back in I cannot get the holes lined up. It looks like the shocks expanded and now their too far apart. I have it close but cannot get it the rest of the way. Anyone have any tips on how to get it lined up? Any help is appreciated.
Suspension help
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Not sure how close it is to a 85 suspension but I put the bolts in for the front of the suspension first.
I used a drift punch when the one side was close left it in then went to the other side and the bolt hole was not that hard to get ligned up back to the other side pulled punch and put bolt in but did not fully tighten them.
I did the rear bolts the same way....then loaded springs after.
I just used the punch so far side was close when working on opposite side I did not need to use it force the suspension around...the threaded shaft is aluminum
Would probably be easier with two working on it. took a little pushing the suspension around to get it all aligned
I used a drift punch when the one side was close left it in then went to the other side and the bolt hole was not that hard to get ligned up back to the other side pulled punch and put bolt in but did not fully tighten them.
I did the rear bolts the same way....then loaded springs after.
I just used the punch so far side was close when working on opposite side I did not need to use it force the suspension around...the threaded shaft is aluminum
Would probably be easier with two working on it. took a little pushing the suspension around to get it all aligned
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use a racthet strap to pull everything together if its all sprung. Thats what I had to do with my 85 el tigree to get mine back in
Snowmobile Track Replacement Problems.
You probably got the track back in now, but the magic word is a BOTTLE JACK and MACHINE ON SIDE.
I had my track out before and it went back in place no problem with the machine and track on the garage floor.
The next time I put studs on my track and new rear shock the same time. The track was a bugger to put back in. Fought for hours, even squashed down the suspension shock and tied with mechanics wire or coat hanger wire. But I this seems to make the track longer when the shock is squashed down and the track is not bolted in place.
Make sure your track is sitting in alignment in proper track grooves at all times as its hard to see everything while you are struggling.
Get good lighting on the subject. Make sure your track adjusters are completely backed off or removed and that the rear idler shaft is completely full ahead, even if you have to tap it!
Here is what I found best. Flip the snowmobile on its side and protect your front engine cover with sleeping bag on your garage floor or something of that nature. Watch you don't break off mirrors or windshield or just remove the hood completely.
With snowmoible completely on its side you can drop track into place. I have always put the front bolts in 1st.
Here is the easy trick. Get an adjustabe car hydraulic pump jack or screw jack and fit the jack between the front drive sprocket shaft and between the front suspension shaft. You only need a very little or almost no pressure as I screwed the jack by hand a coule of turns to get the slack out of the track. Usually you are trying to stretch that track about 1 inch in this area to get the bolt holes to alignment up. Once I figured out the jack thing, the track bolts were in within minutes, where before I fought for 2 different evenings trying to get track in where the year before if had no problem.
You probably got the track back in now, but the magic word is a BOTTLE JACK and MACHINE ON SIDE.
I had my track out before and it went back in place no problem with the machine and track on the garage floor.
The next time I put studs on my track and new rear shock the same time. The track was a bugger to put back in. Fought for hours, even squashed down the suspension shock and tied with mechanics wire or coat hanger wire. But I this seems to make the track longer when the shock is squashed down and the track is not bolted in place.
Make sure your track is sitting in alignment in proper track grooves at all times as its hard to see everything while you are struggling.
Get good lighting on the subject. Make sure your track adjusters are completely backed off or removed and that the rear idler shaft is completely full ahead, even if you have to tap it!
Here is what I found best. Flip the snowmobile on its side and protect your front engine cover with sleeping bag on your garage floor or something of that nature. Watch you don't break off mirrors or windshield or just remove the hood completely.
With snowmoible completely on its side you can drop track into place. I have always put the front bolts in 1st.
Here is the easy trick. Get an adjustabe car hydraulic pump jack or screw jack and fit the jack between the front drive sprocket shaft and between the front suspension shaft. You only need a very little or almost no pressure as I screwed the jack by hand a coule of turns to get the slack out of the track. Usually you are trying to stretch that track about 1 inch in this area to get the bolt holes to alignment up. Once I figured out the jack thing, the track bolts were in within minutes, where before I fought for 2 different evenings trying to get track in where the year before if had no problem.
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