I have Sq AL backers. No problems with them yet. I went with these because I got a great deal on them, no other reason.

I've heard that the polymer backers are lighter then the AL and would like to know what the weight difference could be between them. I'm happy where I am at with these I guess and sorry I don't have an opinion that would help you decide. I don't know which are better really. All I know concerning the polymers are some like them and have good luck with them while others complain and will never use them again. I don't know that I've ever read anyone griping about the aluminums and I've never read of them bending or breaking but it sounds like you have.

 

I have had both types of backers without any problems caused by the backers. Right now I have plastic backers on my sled. I haven't had any problems with them breaking or cracking. Performance wise I think it just comes down to weight. I just picked up 96 woody's studs for my dad's sled this past season and when I held a bag of plastic backers and compared that to a bag of AL backers I would have to say there was at least 5-10 pounds difference. Now that was only a bag of 96 backers, as you can imagine the weight difference goes up as you put more backers/(studs) on. I truly think the only difference between the two types of backers is the weight. I have had luck with both types of backers. I have heard of the tracks stretching a little bit more with AL backers but the only sled I have had with AL backers I bought used so I have no way of comparing that to my current sled (with plastic backers). Just my opinion. Good Luck!

 

Interesting input. I am now leaning towards plastic. Seems there are less problems that I thougt. Mainly I guess the problems must come from the installation.

 

5lbs is a significant difference. Next time I need backers I'll try some plastics out.

 

Just keep in mind that plastic/nylon backers require much less torque applied to the nuts.

Saber Plastic torque to 35 in/lb.
Metal backers torque to 85 in/lb.

Plastic backer will fail if overtorqued.

I've had great success with Saber plastic backers, both single and doubles.

 

I believe Nick did a poll on this a little while ago, as he needed someone to make up his mind for him Not sure where it is though. Lots of interesting info in it.
I'm currently running plastic FastTracbackers on all my sleds with no problems.
I also agree with Brunter Burner about most problems caused by improper installation. Most Aluminum and steel backers are dome shaped, allowing the track to be held between the backer and the head of the stud. The plastic are not, and most often the backer bottoms out on the shoulder of the stud without firmly gripping the track allowing for excessive flex. I've champhered the backs of mine
and haven't had any problems useing both Woodys and StudBoy studs.

 

I have tried turd plastic, aluminum, and steel. plastic looks cool if you trail ride your sled to the local gas stop and pose next to it. Aluminum is nice and light, however if your sled makes any kind of serious horsepower you will constantly bend them. I ran Woodys aluminum backers for the last few years and recently switched to all steel square backers. I'm running 240 studs in my zr and bend only a few a year now. They weigh more but thats why they make performance parts! P.S. my studs are 5/16" mega bites. Go with steel ans save yourself the headache

 

I've had great success with Saber plastic backers.
The trick is to not over-torque the studs when plastic backers are used.
35 in/ib max for plastic. The stud head doesnt' seat down into the track too far but it doesn't seem to cause any negitive issues and pull throughs just don't occur.
Over-torque on plastic backers bends them and leads to breakage.
FYI, ~85 in/lb torque for metal backers.

Note: These are in/lb values, not ft/lb. You'll need a smaller 3/8" drive torque wrench.

Good Luck, whichever you choose.

 

A bit more input woul;d help. Example- 2 seasons ago i ran 192 studs with plastic backers on my 01 700 .88 track and i pulled out 3 in a season, all were torqued to spec. They were not straight line pull out's, 1 here in the center, 1 on the outer ect.... I then bought a new track 1.25 and went with 144 woody's studs w/aluminum backers. Not one pull out, a few bent studs but no pull throughs. Your adding studs to help the hole shot and cornering/breaking right? So what if you lose 3 MPH on top end. The difference is only about $40-$50 for the studs, whats a track cost $300-$400? Buy good quality studs- Woody's/Studboy with big backers. The ideal set up is the double backers.

 

How about, Sabre DOUBLE plastic backers? Available?
I have heard some good things about Sabre. And their backers. Must just be smaller company that doesn't run many sponsorships.
I will have to look at their website(if they have one)

 

Nick, any suggestions? I dunno

 

Originally posted by 3x@Oct 17 2005, 12:28 PM
Nick, any suggestions?  I dunno
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Yeah, what he said....

 

How about aluminum angles? Are they good? And what is effected? Stopping?

 

i have plastic. like the weight diffrence and plastic is more forgivable than alum.

 

I'm not a fan of the flat plastic backers (the ones that look like a regular alum. or steel backer), and HIGHLY recommend NOT using the plastics with the nuts built in. Aluminum bends too easy and can tear the track with it's thin edge when it gets ****ed while the stud is under pressure, as can steel which is also ridiculously heavy. But I really like the Sno Stuff Diamond backers. They're thicker so they won't bend or break like flats, you use a regular nut, and like what's said above, tighten them properly and you won't have any problems. Best of all worlds IMO.