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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As many of you know (and many may not) I periodically produce sets of diamond plate aluminum stick stoppers (Hos Stoppers as some have dubbed them) and am currently looking to do another round for interested A-chatters.

The sets I make now are two sided, they protect where the stock stoppers do as well as the underneath portion of the a-arms and work rather well. I've recently decided to give it a go and see if a three sided stopper would be feasible, thus protecting the front, bottom and rear of each a-arm. Note: I haven't attempted to make a three sided stopper yet (pretty sure it's not going to be a problem), just want some input.

Disclaimer: I thank A-chat for being a generous billboard for my endeavor, I've never went about this for a profit or to become wealthy...ultimately want the rest of the Arctic Cat riders to have the same benefit of the stoppers.

Question...previously, my two sided stoppers have sold for $115/set (four stoppers) delivered (Canadians +$5)...would $130 for the new 3 sided stoppers delivered be reasonable?

Any and all input is greatly appreciated. Myself, I'm pretty excited to get a set of 3 sided one's made, I think they'll be the Cat's A$$...no pun intended!

Thanks all,
hos
 

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Sounds like a fair and reasonable price to me! :thumbsup:
 

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Would a swaybar cause problems or just an easy cut out?? Is it possible for a brushed aluminum stopper?? And yes 3 sided would be the cats meow and would be my preference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anybody with a swaybar want to chime in? I don't have one, nor know how it would or wouldn't affect the stoppers...not sure exactly where the swaybar lies back in that area.

hos
 

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My son is going to make a set similar to the old style in high school shop for my bike. You put out a template on an earlier post. If you have a template for the 3 sided I will get him to make them if you are sharing again. I have the aluminum and he has just started tech this last week so he plans on making them in the next month or so.

WC
 

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Travis, i am glad to here that you are going to make some more. i need another set for my H1. either the 2 sided or three sided, wichever you make. i think $130 is a fair deal for the three sided.
 

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great price!!! My question is with a three sides stopper, would it not be very hard to clean the chunks of grass from swamps, mud and all the other debris that gets hung up in there out? I love the three sided i dean but may some sort of system that will allow easy removal or something to clean it out easier.
But yes i would be in on a pair for sure............
 

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Hos650, I have the swaybar and it attaches to the front of the rear a-arm. I suppose a person could cut out the area to fit around the spot where it attaches. Am interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Bugsy @ Feb 12 2007, 08:38 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Hos650, I have the swaybar and it attaches to the front of the rear a-arm. I suppose a person could cut out the area to fit around the spot where it attaches. Am interested.[/b]
Anybody got a pic of this? Does it attach to the top or bottom bar on the front of the rear a-arm? If the bottom, things will be difficult...if the top, it should be doable.

As for the cleaning out, yes it probably will be a bit tougher to clean, but trade offs are trade offs. However, if you look at the front of the rear a-arm, a majority of that area is blocked by the shocks anyway, so getting in there to clean it is already a PIA. As for the fronts, I think by turning the wheels one way or the other getting a hand in over the wheel to clean things out shouldn't be too much trouble. Like I said, trade off's are a fact of life. I'll make 2 sided stoppers for whoever would rather have them, but in the past the first question I always got was do you make a three sided stopper...trying to respond to demand.

hos
 

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I agree with Travis in that it MAY be a bit trickier to clean, but the added protection would be worth it to me. I'm going to get a set and potentially drill out 3/4" holes on the bottom (only 2 or 3) so that junk can drain out the bottom a bit easier...that is, IF it's needed at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just looked up a pic of where the sway bar attaches...bottom arm on the rear a-arm bang your head . In this case 3 sided stoppers would be a huge PIA to fab, and what little material would be on that front side after notching out for the sway bar mount would be difficult to keep from getting bent around and barely affective at doing anything period. Even the standard two sided stoppers I make will need to be modified to fit well with the sway bar (wish I had one so I could custom fit them).

My recommendation would be for those with the sway bar to get the two sided one's and notch around the sway bar mount. I hate to ask a customer to hack away at something they just spent good money for, so I'll see if I can't come up with a way to get a dimension on where that swaybar mount cutout needs to be.

hos
 

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I would still go ahead with the 3 sided concept. Many of us don't have swaybars on ours. I bet someone will come up with a workaround for the swaybar folks. There's gotta be something that can be done. it's tough to come up with something though when you don't have the swaybar there to work with.
 

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Let me know when the three-sided ones are available. I would like to order 2 sets.

Mitchman
 

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Is this for both front and rear? All 4 wheels for $130?

If it is it's a steal!

I'll take a set! Where/how/when do I pay? :)

:site:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (GreatWhiteHunter @ Feb 12 2007, 02:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Is this for both front and rear? All 4 wheels for $130?

If it is it's a steal!

I'll take a set! Where/how/when do I pay? :)

:site:[/b]

Well in that case, make it $200! Kidding. And yes, that price is for all four guards, although not set in stone (haven't seen how much time it going to take to fab a 3 sided vs. 2 sided yet or how much more material it will take, it shouldn't (if at all) be much more than that (no more than $150 if it does go up). Still unsure what to do with the whole sway bar issue. Don't want to leave anyone out just because they have a sway bar.
 

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Hos,

Thanks for the additional info in the PM, much appreciated and I'll look forward to your updates.

Here's the reason I chose to reply here instead of a PM.

I purchased the Moose CV Boot guards for my Poo way back when and I had something happen that I would be interested in getting some ideas on how to prevent in the future.

After thoroughly beating those things through the brush and over downed logs, I found that the fronts bent back and rubbed against the strut housings. This wasn't a big deal but the rub marks bothered me. I know that the AC's are set up very different from the Poo (A-Arms vs McPherson Strut) but I'm wondering if there's a chance for these to get bent back and rub the upper A-Arm. If so, is there a chance that you or someone else could fab a collar out of polyethylene that wrapped around the upper arm? That way if the shield bent back it rub that instead of the paint/metal?

Also, these other guards that I mention were held in place with U-bolts that went over the lower a-arm and protruded through the bottom of the plate. This left exposed threads, even after I trimmed them, that caught on EVERYTHING. I used to drag grass, mud pack and small children all over the trails! Not having seen your guards up close I can only guess at how they are attached even though I'm a bit better informed now (thanks again Hos) I was wondering if you could enlighten us and possibly show some pix of your older sets mounted, specifically the mount points. Thanks in advance!

Oh, and btw - I was just kidding about the small children, I always stopped and dislodged them rather than drag them. :tongue_nana:
 

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I'd say start with your "mainstream" client (that being the nonswaybar folks) and see what the swaybarrers come up with. It stinks big time knowing that the swaybar interferes with the guards, bu some sort of fix will come along and you could integrate that into your next batch?
 

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These are mounted by bolting them into the same bolts that mount your stock plastic guards on. However, most/many of us have used some pipe hangers (or similar setups) to secure the guards to the A-arms as well. That helped me out big time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here are some pics of my attacment method that I recommend. I use 3/4in pipe clips for the front a-arms and 1in. pipe clips for the rear a-arms..I coated my clips with PlastiGrip (stuff you can use to put new grips on your pliars) so they don't scratch the paint as much.

I think for the new 3 sided stoppers the clips will still work, but a 1/8in.-1/4in. might have to be cut off so they don't wrap as far around the a-arm and hit the adjacent side of the stopper (confused yet). I've had no trouble with things snagging, I use dome head bolts (see pic) and lock nuts and have had no issues.

As for GWH issue with them being bent back and scratching things and so forth...only way to prevent that would be for me to extend the front side of the front stopper (and rear side of the rear stopper) up to the top a-arm member and wrap it around it so that it would be more difficult to bend it back into anything and cause damage or whatnot.

Remember guys, these (nor any others on the market) are a protect ALL. They DO provide remarkedly more protection than stock, and may require more effort when it comes to cleaning, but they do what they are supposed to. Ultimate protection would be the elimination of the rubber CV boots... or somehow creating a water, debris tight encasement for the a-arms and cv's, but that wouldn't ever be possible with the articulation of the a-arms and turning of the wheels.

All this input is great!!! Any way I can improve these stoppers I will, but there is only so much that can be done and done keeping reason and everyone's pocket book in mind. Be glad to field any more questions, and hope this helps a bit (if at all).

I've only seen or heard of two people have trouble with these being bent back (and maybe none of my past customers run through as much muck and debris as you GWH) and both were a case of not having the pipe clips on the portion of the stopper underneath the stopper.

keep the comments coming..
hos

1st pic-coated pipe clips before installation
2nd-coated pipe clip installed on front stopper
3rd-view of front and underneath of front stopper
4th-view of rear and underneath of rear stopper
5th-underneath of front stopper
6th-underneath of rear stopper
 

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Hos,

Thanks a bunch for those pix! I'm completely satisfied now and want a set more than ever!

Get busy will ya? :beer_cheers:
 
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