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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished putting the new top end all back to gather. it starts up and i let it run for 1 hour at very low RPM's. then i tried to take it around my house and it moves ok at slow speeds 2-5 mph but when you give it gas to get it moving it just boggs. what could this be from?
 

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Not enough information to go on. Give us a complete run down on every aspect of the sled set up, the condiditons in which the problem occurs and how it behaves. I don't remember all the details from your previous posts and from your description all I can tell you is that there is something wrong with it, which is no help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it is a stock 94 zr 580. just rebuilt the top end. it starts up fine on 1-2 pulls. when i have it up and running it is fine if you feather into the throttle but if you go to push it all the way down it just boggs. i hope this is enough information
 

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did you check all the wire connections maybe also check the air temp sensoir in the air box maybe that came unpluged mine whent bad on my 97 zr 580 and it took me forever to figure out the problem hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i am not 100% sure if it is running to rich or not. how do i check this. also i want to buy a manual where should i go and how much are they. a dealer told me $150 and I dont have that kind of money.
 

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Did it run fine before you rebuilt the top end? What jetting are you running? Have you bypassed the TSS? Have you serviced the clutches? You check if you're running too rich by the conditon of the sprak plugs and the piston wash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (94ZR580 @ Feb 7 2007, 11:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Did it run fine before you rebuilt the top end? What jetting are you running? Have you bypassed the TSS? Have you serviced the clutches? You check if you're running too rich by the conditon of the sprak plugs and the piston wash.[/b]
yeah it ran fine before the top end went. i do not know what jetting, how do i check? i had to bypass the TSS because the cat dealer said i had to after replacing the cdi box. they charged me $325 for a used cdi and the bypass plug. i have not done anything to the clutches. i will try and get some pis of the plugs and pistons tom. if i get a chance.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (anthony10092 @ Feb 3 2007, 12:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I just finished putting the new top end all back to gather. it starts up and i let it run for 1 hour at very low RPM's. then i tried to take it around my house and it moves ok at slow speeds 2-5 mph but when you give it gas to get it moving it just boggs. what could this be from?[/b]
Yikes....IMO that is maybe the worst way possible to break in a new motor.
I bet its fouled up really badly for starters.

Changes plugs, and let it warm up to operating temp. then ride it like you stole it....hopefully you can salvage something from the sticky mess the idling and slow running created.
I bet rings are gummy, and cylinders glazed etc.

Personally a new motor of mine gets 2 mins idling to warm up a bit....then about 3 minutes of general riding up to say 1/3 throttle.
Then I hit it and hit it hard.
Full throttle pulls and bag on it.
Seat the rings and get it working.
Let it cool for half an hour and do it over again.

I bet if you pull the plugs they are likely looking they they were left to soak in burnt oil for a week.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (anthony10092 @ Feb 7 2007, 10:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (94ZR580 @ Feb 7 2007, 11:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Did it run fine before you rebuilt the top end? What jetting are you running? Have you bypassed the TSS? Have you serviced the clutches? You check if you're running too rich by the conditon of the sprak plugs and the piston wash.[/b]
yeah it ran fine before the top end went. i do not know what jetting, how do i check? i had to bypass the TSS because the cat dealer said i had to after replacing the cdi box. they charged me $325 for a used cdi and the bypass plug. i have not done anything to the clutches. i will try and get some pis of the plugs and pistons tom. if i get a chance.
[/b][/quote]

Yikes! on the CDI. It could well be a CDI problem that you are experiencing now. You can get a brand new, aftermarket CDI for around $60 - 70 CDN. Sorry to tell you that. You check the main jet size by removing the plug from the bottom of the float bowl and reading the number engraved on the jet. You have to remove the throttle valve (carb slide) and disconnect the throttle cable from the slide in order to access the jet needle to determine which position the clip is in. If it ran fine with that jetting before, then it should be OK now. I think you have to look to clutching and ignition. Make sure the plug caps are securely seated on the plug wires. Make sure the clutches are clean and worn parts replaced. If nothing changes then you may have to try a different CDI.
 

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Also check you ground wires and mak sure they have a good connection. You may also want to pull the carb bowls and clean them along with the main and pilot jets. very likely you dislodged some debries and plugged a jet when you tore down the top end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yikes....IMO that is maybe the worst way possible to break in a new motor.
I bet its fouled up really badly for starters.

Changes plugs, and let it warm up to operating temp. then ride it like you stole it....hopefully you can salvage something from the sticky mess the idling and slow running created.
I bet rings are gummy, and cylinders glazed etc.

Personally a new motor of mine gets 2 mins idling to warm up a bit....then about 3 minutes of general riding up to say 1/3 throttle.
Then I hit it and hit it hard.
Full throttle pulls and bag on it.
Seat the rings and get it working.
Let it cool for half an hour and do it over again.

I bet if you pull the plugs they are likely looking they they were left to soak in burnt oil for a week.
[/quote]

the paper work that came with my new pistons said to run through a tank of gas or 5 hours whatever comes first at low RPM's. the after that the next tank sould not be all high RPM's then I should be good to go at the third tank of gas. should i follow this or should i try to seat the rings. I dont know anything about this so any help would be great
 

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I don't know how anyone could go through a break in period as described in the info that came with your pistons. IMO the critcal aspect of break in is to not run at a constant RPM for a prolonged period of time. I will add a little bit of oil to the first tank of fuel and run a little richer jetting for that first tank. You want to make sure you get the engine to peak RPM during break in which is sometimes called "stretching the rods". The prupose is to make sure the ridge that forms on the cylinder wall at the extremes of the ring travel will be as far apart as potentially possible and not limit ring travel later on. A rule of thumb I try to use is to vary engine speed every 10 -15 seconds and make sure you get WOT before too long.
 
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