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i should keep this thread going throughout the weekend! im doing all the maintaince i should have done through the summer...

so im at the point of trying to remove the jackshaft bearings....i have both the clutch off and gear off....now im assuming im supposed to free the locking collar on the clutch side and slide the shaft toward the rotor and the bearing will fall out(retainer plate is off)...

does that sound right? only problem is the locking collar is frozen on the shaft.....ive been beating on the little punch hole with a punch but its not moving and the allen bung is loosened....

am i going abou this the right way?
 

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i should keep this thread going throughout the weekend! im doing all the maintaince i should have done through the summer...

so im at the point of trying to remove the jackshaft bearings....i have both the clutch off and gear off....now im assuming im supposed to free the locking collar on the clutch side and slide the shaft toward the rotor and the bearing will fall out(retainer plate is off)...

does that sound right? only problem is the locking collar is frozen on the shaft.....ive been beating on the little punch hole with a punch but its not moving and the allen bung is loosened....

am i going abou this the right way?
I wish it was that easy. You need to pull the shaft out the sled with the bearings on it, get the locking collar loose, and you will probably need a puller and heat to get the bearings off. They more than likely will be a bear to get off.
 

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The shaft should slide out of the brake disc. Watch for the key in the shaft when you pull it out. Yes it should come out the clutch side.
 

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how do u do that? take the brake caliper off? and slide it to the clutch side?
Oh boy. I thought you had done all that already. You've got a lot of work ahead of you yet.

You need to remove the entire chain case, brake caliper and rotor and then you' can get the jackshaft out. I don't know if you've removed the air box yet. It's not necessary but makes things a little easier to see.

If you haven't done so already you also need to remove the drive shaft to get the chain case off.

It sounds pretty daunting but it's not that bad. If you're not familiar with this stuff make sure you take lots of pics so you can see how things go back together.

I just did this on a 99 Panther 550 with reverse and electric start (reverse and e-start making things a little more interesting becaus of the battery tray, extra gears and reverse fork). If you don't have either of those it's pretty simple.
 

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You don't have to remove the chain case. You can pull the secondary shaft right out of the brake disk and out the clutch side of the sled. I have done it several times. might have to loosen the belly pan and flex it out of the way, or put a hole in the belly pan and put a plug in it like there is for the primary.
 

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You don't have to remove the chain case. You can pull the secondary shaft right out of the brake disk and out the clutch side of the sled. I have done it several times. might have to loosen the belly pan and flex it out of the way, or put a hole in the belly pan and put a plug in it like there is for the primary.
Yea just remove the cover and the nut holding the top gear on, pull the gear off and you can tap on it with a rubber mallet on chaincase side. Look out for the key for the brake rotor its a pain to find if u knock it off
 

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You don't have to remove the chain case. You can pull the secondary shaft right out of the brake disk and out the clutch side of the sled. I have done it several times. might have to loosen the belly pan and flex it out of the way, or put a hole in the belly pan and put a plug in it like there is for the primary.
Well I guess I made a little extra work for myself. Wasn't that bad really. Made dealing witht he brake disc pretty simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i also was going to change the gearing, but the gears i bought dont match up with the 01's i guess...

are the gears different when u have reverse?
 

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and what is this! lol

Can't really tell for sure from the picture because I can't tell the size, but if I had to guess, I'd say that is the tip of the plunger on an automatic chain tensioner.
 

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Can't really tell for sure from the picture because I can't tell the size, but if I had to guess, I'd say that is the tip of the plunger on an automatic chain tensioner.
Yep that's what it is. I had that show up all of a sudden (didn't see where it fell from) and after looking at the parts diagram that is exactly what it is.
 

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i also was going to change the gearing, but the gears i bought dont match up with the 01's i guess...

are the gears different when u have reverse?
The top sprocket and chain are the same for reverse or non-reverse. The bottom sprocket is obviously different. The sprockets and chain are sold in different widths for lower or higher horsepower applications. For up through 600 cc sleds I use 13W chain and for my 800's I have used 15W chain. I always use the correct width top sprocket to match the chain, but I have used the wider 15W chain with a 13W lower sprocket on my reverse sleds because the 15W reverse lower sprockets are hard to find and costly compared to the 13W. The 15W chain works fine with the 13W lower sprocket because the there are many more teeth engaged with the chain on the lower when compared to the top sprocket.
 

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Mine had a spring. It stayed in the of the shaft.
Mine just had the plastic stud on it the keeps constant pressure. I can twist it in then it will automatically push back till it has pressure...but im sure mine isnt working right and isnt stock cause the P/O had to put a dent in the can for it to fit right
 
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