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Discussion Starter #1
[attachment=59070:DSCN0288.JPG]
I did some wrenching last night, and tested today. Basically an entirely new set-up. Last time out was with ovs, and everything else stock. I didn't like the backshift I was getting with that so....New set-up.

Temp: low 30's
Conditions: first tracks on 7" snow covered lake.
set-up: HH 73.6 gram per fett bros baseline: 140/300 primary
-xs 801 belt
-44/40 helix, OVS kit, R/W secondary, 2nd hole

First test, low and top were a little revvy, spinning 8000+. Added 2g to heel and about 1g to tip. low was a bit too heavy, was happy with top, pulling 7800-7850 and climbing to 7900+/- a few.
Third and final, pulled 1.2g from heel, and was pretty happy with that. Ended up at 75.3g overall

The conditions did not lend themselves for any top mph runs, loose unpacked snow, but I did switch tach over to mph mode, and could not get over 85 mph. Pulled awesome, the HH are very smooth in the shift pattern, cluthces were a bit warm, and I will reserve judgement on the ovs kit, until I get some more time in. I may go back to stock Y/W primary, and Fett Bros baseline set-up and go from there. Anyone that may want to chime- in, Im open for suggestions.

Happy New Year all :chug:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Back at it today....Really happy with my set-up at this point.

Temp: mid-30's, snow is wet and packy

Pulled out the 140/300, and put in Y/W in primary. Threw some more weight at the heel's, let'er rip. Pulls like a mother! 7850 rpm, and climbs to 7920+/- a few. This is with the 801. I pulled the xs, and threw in the 044 and definately noticed some more slipping. Im sold on the xs., back on it went. Belt chirped at first as I added a shim, so removed it and ran it with a litttle more deflection, and actually had better mph w/a little more deflection. Yesterday maxed at 85 mph, today saw 93mph, in warmer and packier conditions.
Heres the kicker....after the off-set hype and everyone pulling shims from behind the secondary, I noticed that the moveable on the secondary was hitting the foot-well support, and carved a little bit out. I threw the .120 worth of shims back in and top mph went from 87 to 91. Cluthces held a bit less heat as well.
When the temps drop, and we get some hard-pack....this thing is going to rip!
Last test of the day, I installed injector perfector, with a 290 jet, top mph went from 91-93, and throttle response seemed crisper. I hope it will help a little in gas milage as well.
[attachment=59158:DSCN0290.JPG][attachment=59159:DSCN0291.JPG][attachment=59160:
DSCN0293.JPG][attachment=59161:DSCN0292.JPG]
 

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My machine was brutally quick the other day and I thought I better check the plugs since I am running the Injector Perfecter at 290.... I had held it Wide OPen for 1000 feet and hit the kill switch...pulled both plugs , they were WHITE as WHITE on the insulator. I will be taking the IP out and checking again? My oil usage is around 45 to 1 so its not the oil rod... must be the IP? I am a little concerned.

My friend that bought the IP at the same time as me will not run it anymore in his F6 as the 300 jet was making his plugs ultra white as well... his machine was flying too before he checked. Note: I realize that F6s are leaner that the 700...

2 strokes always rip ass right before they pop...


Thanks for the tips on the primary and belt....
 

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Awesome post. Glad to see some things starting to work out. I was in the garage all day today!!! Ground down a new weight profile. Shift seems way better now and still getting full shift out. No stumble this time! Had no heat in the primary and only a little in the secondary. Noticed a black ring on the top outside primary sheave. Removed a thick shim form behind the secondary. Have to see how that works out. I'm very excited to test this setup, both with the the stock 036 belt and the XS801. Should have some interesting things to report.

Hey Grizz, watch for little pieces of rubber (from the install) lodging in the orifice of the IP. I had that happen on the ZR and started to melt a piston. I wouldn't yank the IP yet, just run a larger jet. They give guidelines, but only you can test for your style of riding. Good info though!

I should have ssome hard, on snow data to report tomorrow.

Yeee haw!!
 

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2 things.....

You weren't running new plugs in your "plug tests" right

Second I believe the service manual states a minimum of 2 washers behind the secondary.....or you will have contact...
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (cmscat50 @ Dec 30 2006, 09:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
2 things.....

You weren't running new plugs in your "plug tests" right[/b]

Yes cmscat50 , I was running the new plugs. I am new to reading plugs and thought that putting in new ones was the best way to read? Should I throw in the older plugs that are brown already and do the test again. And if so, what should I see exactly, I was told just look at the insulator down in the middle, it should be light brown...my old plug are brown now, so will they just lighten up?

Thanks for the info, cause if the sled is OK after i test with other plugs, I'll be happier than a pig in SHIOT, cause it flat out rips right now... I cant even believe it actually.
 

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Oh, new plugs!!! I agree with cmscat50.....put the old plugs back in, they will lighten. If in doubt about the colour, post pics. Just for reference, the "old" plugs on the ZR were pretty dark before the IP. After tuning it they went to a nice real light brown.
 

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And you don't read the insulator...unless you have a hack saw and cut the threads off and can see the VERY top 1/8" of the inulator. Look at the bottom face of the threads...the ring that the ground strap attaches to. On a set of good USED plugs that should be brown. Not the threads themselves...the flat face that the ground strap attaches too...hope that is clear.

I'd be VERY surprised if a 290 jet is lean....but they are all different.
 

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I'll pull them and take pictures.....I'm sure there is others that would like to know exactly what reading plugs is all about. Good discussion.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Grizz, are you running 87 octane with the IP? I have been running 87 up to this point, but
with the addition of Y and IP, I'll be pumping 93 to be safe, along with some plug and piston readings.
I think I may get back out today, to get some plug readings, if nothing else. Pics later.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is a WOT/kill switch reading from today. Thes plugs have about 75 miles on them...maybe too new?
[attachment=59303:DSCN0302.JPG]
Any thoughts?
 

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mine looked similar to those... I have been working all weekend so I haven't had time to even go out to the garage. I will try and go for a rip this week and take pics of both old and new plugs.... and yes I ran 87 last tank.
 

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Looking at the above plugs they look safe. I'd like to see closer up. The right appears very black, the left brown...or maybe even no buildup. Might need a big more time on the plugs yet.

Once again I'm looking at the "bottom ring" that the ground strap attaches to.
 

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Similar thoughts here as well. Plugs look like they might need more time yet. Left seems leaner than the right. I have seen this on my Crossfire as well without any IP.
 

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The mag side always burns hotter. I believe that is the case in most sleds as a result of the power (extra heat) that the magneto puts out as well as being on the "far" side of coolant. My F7 and F5 were or are both leaner mag side. I jetted my F5 richer on the mag. I don't even pull the PTO plug when testing my F7...base it all on the MAG.
 

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Ahhh, thanks for all the info. After reading your posts and doing more research myself I have learned alot, and feel my plugs were just fine. Actually After I do another test, I might be able to safely go 280 on the IP.... boy o boy my ski-doo friends aren't going to like me :)

note: some things that rookies like myself never knew... this is a copy and paste from dragstuf.com's web site, I have no intention of saying it is my words.... (legal mumbo jumbo)...if you want to read more indepth go here http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/how-to-read-plugs.html



Jetting = the air/fuel mixture ratio shows up on the base ring (the last thread ring, it has the strap welded to it). You want a full turn of light soot color on the base ring!!! If you want to tune for max. power, then you want 3/4 to 7/8ths of a full turn of light soot color to show up on the base ring, but this is on ragged-edge of being too lean, but will make the most HP on most engines.

To be safe, leave it at a full turn of light soot color. If the base ring has a full turn of color, but there are "spots" of heavy buildup of "dry soot" on top of color, then jetting is too rich .

* If the base ring has a full turn of color with some spots of heavy dry soot, then jetting is too rich, REGARDLESS, if the porcelain is "BONE-WHITE", jetting is still TOO RICH !!!

* Do not look at the porcelain to read jetting !!!

Porcelain = the porcelain shows up preignition/detonation, it will not accurately reveal jetting/air/fuel ratios.

Remember when reading plugs...

* The "Ground-Strap" = Heat Range
* The "Plug's Base-Ring" = Jetting
* The "Porcelain" = signs of preignition/detonation


EDIT: note that is not snowmobile plugs in the pictures on the website, but from what I have read its the same principal.
 

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Grizz...everything I know says that literature is 100% accurate. I will CERTAINLY not claim to be an expert however.

The best way to check how your engine is running is piston wash. It's really pretty easy on the Crossfire...but that's another lesson...for another day. Pistons will give you a 100% accurate assessment of how the engine is doing. IMO plugs leave a bit of uncertainty on the table. That said I tune with the plugs for trail riding....just don't get greedy.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (cmscat50 @ Jan 2 2007, 10:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
The best way to check how your engine is running is piston wash. It's really pretty easy on the Crossfire...[/b]
Define "pretty easy". I'd call checking wash on the CF....or any other laydown Zuki anything but "pretty easy".....I'd say it falls more under the category of "pretty fukn ****ty" actually.... I dunno
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Define "pretty easy". I'd call checking wash on the CF....or any other laydown Zuki anything but "pretty easy".....I'd say it falls more under the category of "pretty fukn ****ty" actually....[/b]
Remove pipe and y-pipe....5 minutes...you can even see in there some with only the pipe removed. No reason to pull the head I don't think..
 
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