How is the flow of gas to the carburetor? I had some crud in the bottom of my gas tank once that caused similar issues.Removed the tank and cleaned it, was shocked to see what came out.
SOLVED 2002 500 4x4 Automatic decides to cut out and die after a little driving.
Video of issue…2002 AC 500 Automatic 4x4 decides to not work after a little while.
So just spent a few weeks fixing up a 2002 Arctic cat 500 Automatic. It ran great before starting to fix up plastics and installing a winch. Then I took it out for about 30 minutes of easy snow driving. Everything worked great till the next time I drove it. It went about 5 minutes until the engine just sputtered and died. I let it sit awhile and it started right up and drove back. Now every time I drive it it can barely make it down the driveway before it starts sputtering and dies under acceleration. Usually it can continue idling poorly. Yet when it dies I can start it right up instantly and it runs fine again for about a minute.
The video shows me right after starting it.
I have replaced fuel filter, fuel lines, and ultrasonicly cleaned and inspected carb.
I heard a guy on here say changing his cam chain fixed it. Yet I don’t see how it would run fine for awhile if the chain was bad. Wouldn’t it just always run rough?
Also when I bought quad it had a new choke cable in the box. Mine looks fine but I never asked why he had purchased a new one.
Please any advice would be appreciated!
So just spent a few weeks fixing up a 2002 Arctic cat 500 Automatic. It ran great before starting to fix up plastics and installing a winch. Then I took it out for about 30 minutes of easy snow driving. Everything worked great till the next time I drove it. It went about 5 minutes until the engine just sputtered and died. I let it sit awhile and it started right up and drove back. Now every time I drive it it can barely make it down the driveway before it starts sputtering and dies under acceleration. Usually it can continue idling poorly. Yet when it dies I can start it right up instantly and it runs fine again for about a minute.
The video shows me right after starting it.
I have replaced fuel filter, fuel lines, and ultrasonicly cleaned and inspected carb.
I heard a guy on here say changing his cam chain fixed it. Yet I don’t see how it would run fine for awhile if the chain was bad. Wouldn’t it just always run rough?
Also when I bought quad it had a new choke cable in the box. Mine looks fine but I never asked why he had purchased a new one.
Please any advice would be appreciated!
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Set your fuel valve to RES and check. It may be partially plugged in the ON position.
Let's play the good news bad news game.
Good news! its a 500 not a 400, your flywheel magnets have not fallen off, and not destroyed the stator.
Good news! it also doesn't sound like you have an excessive amount of cam chain noise/valve chatter.
Good news! this sounds like hopefully a cheap fix, the diagnostic might just drive you a bit bonkers.
Bad news, there is a long list of small things it could potentially be.
The 2 guys above are right, check your fuel on reserve, look in your tank with a light and look for crud, CHECK THE NEW FUEL FILTER, I've had brand new fuel filters with stupid check valves or other stupid non needed moving pieces/overly small inlets/outlets etc cause issues. If you have a spare chunk of fuel line or a double barb fitting try running it without the filter a bit and see what happens.
Try loosening fuel cap a bit or removing it temporarily to see if that happens again, (vent line looks rotten might not be breathing enough)
Check carb vent, could also not be breathing well.
Try removing the air filter to see if it happens with the air filter out, inspect the inside of the air filter for raw fuel.
You mentioned you have been fixing it for awhile, away from the carb what other work have you done?
Are you 1000% certain you put the jets back in the right locations during carb re-assembly?
Pull the spark plug after it stalls out and check if it's black, white, or tan, or WET easy way to check if it's rich or lean.
Remove the fuel tank and check the wiring on the right hand frame rail going to the steering post, the 2001-2004 autos had a couple spots in there that key wiring used to chafe through, the exposed wires wouldn't arc until they got hot, it presents itself a bit different for everyone, I don't BELIEVE this is your problem but it is 2 screws to remove the fuel tank and rule it out with a visual inspection.
Good news! its a 500 not a 400, your flywheel magnets have not fallen off, and not destroyed the stator.
Good news! it also doesn't sound like you have an excessive amount of cam chain noise/valve chatter.
Good news! this sounds like hopefully a cheap fix, the diagnostic might just drive you a bit bonkers.
Bad news, there is a long list of small things it could potentially be.
The 2 guys above are right, check your fuel on reserve, look in your tank with a light and look for crud, CHECK THE NEW FUEL FILTER, I've had brand new fuel filters with stupid check valves or other stupid non needed moving pieces/overly small inlets/outlets etc cause issues. If you have a spare chunk of fuel line or a double barb fitting try running it without the filter a bit and see what happens.
Try loosening fuel cap a bit or removing it temporarily to see if that happens again, (vent line looks rotten might not be breathing enough)
Check carb vent, could also not be breathing well.
Try removing the air filter to see if it happens with the air filter out, inspect the inside of the air filter for raw fuel.
You mentioned you have been fixing it for awhile, away from the carb what other work have you done?
Are you 1000% certain you put the jets back in the right locations during carb re-assembly?
Pull the spark plug after it stalls out and check if it's black, white, or tan, or WET easy way to check if it's rich or lean.
Remove the fuel tank and check the wiring on the right hand frame rail going to the steering post, the 2001-2004 autos had a couple spots in there that key wiring used to chafe through, the exposed wires wouldn't arc until they got hot, it presents itself a bit different for everyone, I don't BELIEVE this is your problem but it is 2 screws to remove the fuel tank and rule it out with a visual inspection.
Now here's an experience for me I bought a shut-off valve and inline fuel filter one time off the shelf at local Farm Store took them back and replaced them on a running machine and went to start it and it wouldn't run worth a s*** and I spent a couple of hours of diagnosing this thing what it was was there was a little bit of plastic shavings that was either in the shut off valve or in the filter from manufacturing. It went the fuel line and right up in the main jet. Cleaned the carb and it ran perfect.
Check for a possible overcharging condition. I have a 2000 500 that was doing a similar thing. It would idle fine and spit/spudder and die when accelerating. Changed the battery and regulator and it was good to go...
Thank you all for the replies!
So first off all all the things I fixed the month leading up to issue were mostly cosmetic or unrelated to engine performance.
All plastics swapped, new cv axles, new from brake calipers, etc.
Although I did put in a winch so there was a lot or swearing and running cables. I must state I am meticulous and take my time with everything I do. So don’t imagine the average farm atv with random bolts and things sort of fitting.
I also cleaned the carb in ultrasonic cleaner and double checked jets to make sure the sizes were stock and in correct position.
The fuse block had wires chewed on by mice in a few spots so I replaced small sections properly with shrink wrap, correct sized wire, and cramp connectors. One thing I noticed with the fuse block was that the second 10a fuse that stated it’s for the high beams had no power to either side of it. Test light lit up for all of the other ones though. Although my high beams work fine for some reason.
I have also ran it without gas cap on and problem persisted. Hooked up auxiliary tank directly to carb without filter and premium gas and it still has issues.
I might have to really follow wires and make sure everything looks good next. I will definitely update once problem is found to possibly help the next person.
So first off all all the things I fixed the month leading up to issue were mostly cosmetic or unrelated to engine performance.
All plastics swapped, new cv axles, new from brake calipers, etc.
Although I did put in a winch so there was a lot or swearing and running cables. I must state I am meticulous and take my time with everything I do. So don’t imagine the average farm atv with random bolts and things sort of fitting.
I also cleaned the carb in ultrasonic cleaner and double checked jets to make sure the sizes were stock and in correct position.
The fuse block had wires chewed on by mice in a few spots so I replaced small sections properly with shrink wrap, correct sized wire, and cramp connectors. One thing I noticed with the fuse block was that the second 10a fuse that stated it’s for the high beams had no power to either side of it. Test light lit up for all of the other ones though. Although my high beams work fine for some reason.
I have also ran it without gas cap on and problem persisted. Hooked up auxiliary tank directly to carb without filter and premium gas and it still has issues.
I might have to really follow wires and make sure everything looks good next. I will definitely update once problem is found to possibly help the next person.
Check the voltage at the battery when it’s running. Let us know
So the battery with atv off was at 12.6v. When I started it and it ran fine for awhile it read 14.7v. Then as issue started it read 17.8v.
That to me sounds like it is an overcharging issue. I’m going to order a regulator rectifier from eBay and let you know if it fixes the issue. Thanks again for the suggestions!
That to me sounds like it is an overcharging issue. I’m going to order a regulator rectifier from eBay and let you know if it fixes the issue. Thanks again for the suggestions!
Ya, let us know if that fixed the issue or not.So the battery with atv off was at 12.6v. When I started it and it ran fine for awhile it read 14.7v. Then as issue started it read 17.8v.
That to me sounds like it is an overcharging issue. I’m going to order a regulator rectifier from eBay and let you know if it fixes the issue. Thanks again for the suggestions!
SOLVED!
So it was indeed the voltage regulator. After putting in a new one I just drove the quad for almost an hour without a hiccup. It used to just run for a few minutes tops before stalling out.
So for anyone having issue where it runs fine for awhile and then just starts sputtering like my video. Check voltage on battery while it’s still running fine and you should have 13-15 DC volts. I think that’s within spec in the manual.
Then once it start’s sputtering check to see if the voltage had spiked.
Thanks again to everyone for helping me solve the problem quickly.
So it was indeed the voltage regulator. After putting in a new one I just drove the quad for almost an hour without a hiccup. It used to just run for a few minutes tops before stalling out.
So for anyone having issue where it runs fine for awhile and then just starts sputtering like my video. Check voltage on battery while it’s still running fine and you should have 13-15 DC volts. I think that’s within spec in the manual.
Then once it start’s sputtering check to see if the voltage had spiked.
Thanks again to everyone for helping me solve the problem quickly.
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