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So the other day i noticed my 2011 sno pro 500 almost died when i punched the throttle to get up a drift... so i let off and the sled returned back to normal idle and punched it again and it was fine. But now i noticed this is starting to happen more and more. I did put in 92 octane into it (always was taught to run higher octane in small gas motors). Did i put to high of octane in it? or do i have a bigger issue on my hands?I dunno
 

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Apparently there was a recall for an ecu reflash for the 2010's for the exact same problem you are having. The 2011's seem to have the same problem and quite a few 2011 owners had there ecu reflashed with great results. Its a low rpm rich condition. Those sno pro 500's are super finicky. They're tuned from the factory to pretty much be hung wide open all the time. They don't make good trail sleds right out of the box. There's been some complaints from general trail and recreational riders about the sno pro 500. I guess I should have asked this first but is this something that just started happening? By the way don't run anything over 87 octane!!! Sounds crazy but ask any cat dealer or racer that knows the sno pro 500's. It wouldn't hurt to use an ethanol treatment either.
 

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Apparently there was a recall for an ecu reflash for the 2010's for the exact same problem you are having. The 2011's seem to have the same problem and quite a few 2011 owners had there ecu reflashed with great results. Its a low rpm rich condition. Those sno pro 500's are super finicky. They're tuned from the factory to pretty much be hung wide open all the time. They don't make good trail sleds right out of the box. There's been some complaints from general trail and recreational riders about the sno pro 500. I guess I should have asked this first but is this something that just started happening? By the way don't run anything over 87 octane!!! Sounds crazy but ask any cat dealer or racer that knows the sno pro 500's. It wouldn't hurt to use an ethanol treatment either.
Wow- what misinformation..... Did you even own one?

Here in Minnesota and Wisconsin, the higher octane fuels are the only ones at the gas station that are not E10. So, many of us run it to avoid the alcohol. It is certainly possible that you got some bad fuel, but most likely the ECU is just in need of a reflash.

This was never a recall- it was a technical update that was available to correct sleds that were effected by the bog you are describing. It most commonly effected the '10's, and generally occurred on sleds that were just "gunned" from idle, creating a rich bog. On mine, it most commonly occurred when the engine was cold and I learned to increased RPM's less abruptly and it reduced the likelihood of the bog.

Finicky? It started easily, it ran extremely well, and was reliable, had EFI- I don't see your point? I can see your point about the bog, but that was fixable.

They don't make good trail sleds right out of the box??? WTH? If there is ANYTHING that this sled does well, is run through twisty trails. It corners tight. It is light and flickable. The engine is calibrated to run corner to corner very quickly (contrary to what "ZRteeth" claims), and is right at home on a trail system. Now if you had said that it isn't a lake racer, then I would have gladly agreed with you.
 

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I have never owned the sno pro 500 i'll give you that one but I have worked on MANY of them and worked one on one with quite a few racers. I have lost count of the amount of hours spent on the dyno and on the phone with arctic cat and spoke to their "EFI specialist" several times. The "not making great trail sleds" I honestly can't answer that personally I'll give you that one to. I get a lot of feedback from people out on the trail and that come in for service and the response seems to be a trend (not everyone). We are talking box stock sno pros. I can assure you that arctic cat will tell you to run 87. That's coming from their "EFI specialist" I gave my 2 cents. Seems like I struck a nerve. I'll retire from this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow- what misinformation..... Did you even own one?

Here in Minnesota and Wisconsin, the higher octane fuels are the only ones at the gas station that are not E10. So, many of us run it to avoid the alcohol. It is certainly possible that you got some bad fuel, but most likely the ECU is just in need of a reflash.

This was never a recall- it was a technical update that was available to correct sleds that were effected by the bog you are describing. It most commonly effected the '10's, and generally occurred on sleds that were just "gunned" from idle, creating a rich bog. On mine, it most commonly occurred when the engine was cold and I learned to increased RPM's less abruptly and it reduced the likelihood of the bog.

Finicky? It started easily, it ran extremely well, and was reliable, had EFI- I don't see your point? I can see your point about the bog, but that was fixable.

They don't make good trail sleds right out of the box??? WTH? If there is ANYTHING that this sled does well, is run through twisty trails. It corners tight. It is light and flickable. The engine is calibrated to run corner to corner very quickly (contrary to what "ZRteeth" claims), and is right at home on a trail system. Now if you had said that it isn't a lake racer, then I would have gladly agreed with you.
Any way to tell the dealer had done this update or do i have to call into a dealer and ask?
 

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Updates done to sleds should be in system attached to the vin number. If it was reported. Meaning if your dealer runs a vin number of a random sled he can tell what updates or recalls have been performed.

Ps box stock the clutch and suspension calibrations are a bit harsh for most trail riders. I think this maybe what teeth was referring to. I would never suggest this sled to anyone who I didn't think was an aggressive rider. But if you are than you'll love this sled.

I have never had any issues with the EFI sleds I have owned.
 

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Updates done to sleds should be in system attached to the vin number. If it was reported. Meaning if your dealer runs a vin number of a random sled he can tell what updates or recalls have been performed.

Ps box stock the clutch and suspension calibrations are a bit harsh for most trail riders. I think this maybe what teeth was referring to. I would never suggest this sled to anyone who I didn't think was an aggressive rider. But if you are than you'll love this sled.

I have never had any issues with the EFI sleds I have owned.
Exactly!!! By no means was I trying to bash the sno pro 500. The harder you ride it the better it performs. We did some of the updates on the 2010's and used that same map on some of the 2011's. Cat didn't do the best job with the low rpm fuel curve. We have to put a sticker on the ecu box and put it in the data base so yes the update will follow the vin. We have two sno pro 500's in the shop now. When I get back to the shop I'll take a pic of the ecu with the sticker on it. Some "non legit" shops will do updates or fuel map changes and not report it or log it.
 

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<snip>
Those sno pro 500's are super finicky. They're tuned from the factory to pretty much be hung wide open all the time. They don't make good trail sleds right out of the box.
<snip>
Wow- what misinformation..... Did you even own one?

<snip>

Finicky? It started easily, it ran extremely well, and was reliable, had EFI- I don't see your point? I can see your point about the bog, but that was fixable.

They don't make good trail sleds right out of the box??? WTH? If there is ANYTHING that this sled does well, is run through twisty trails. It corners tight. It is light and flickable. The engine is calibrated to run corner to corner very quickly (contrary to what "ZRteeth" claims), and is right at home on a trail system. Now if you had said that it isn't a lake racer, then I would have gladly agreed with you.
<snip>

Ps box stock the clutch and suspension calibrations are a bit harsh for most trail riders. I think this maybe what teeth was referring to. I would never suggest this sled to anyone who I didn't think was an aggressive rider. But if you are than you'll love this sled.

I have never had any issues with the EFI sleds I have owned.
Reading through this, I can see that the wording of zrteeth's 1st post was probably not the best. However, I have to agree with ziemann on his points. I have owned 4 different 500s. I still have my original 2010 500 that I pre-seasoned. It is hands down the most reliable, easy to operate sled I have had from Cat in a long time. Finicky ??? Hardly.

Not a good trail sled right out of the box ?? About the only way I can agree with this statement is due to the shock calibration. But, as 500porsno states, the sled IS geared towards an aggressive trail rider. Hell, you are buying a race chassis sled here people.

Now, on to the problem the OP posted about....
A couple things come to mind. Air temp sensor is one of them. Was this "incident" after riding, then stopping for a bit, and then starting off again ? We had some "want to die" issue with 720s...they would start up fine, but when you went to drive away, the sled would die right off. This was after riding, then stopping and then heading off again. We ended up relocating the air sensor and that seemed to correct the problem. Seemed that when we stopped, the air in the air box would warm up while sitting from under hood temps. When we started up again, the ECU would recognize the warm air, lean the sled out for THAT temp, but when we'd push the throttle, cold air would then enter the motor... and voila ... lean condition.

Just a thought...........not being there to see what the actual condition is.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just bought the sled and this was my first ride with it, checked the ecu box and there is only 1 sticker on it from the factory, no sticker is on it from a dealer.. ill try putting indiffernt gas and if the problem continues its going to the dealer.
 

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Reading through this, I can see that the wording of zrteeth's 1st post was probably not the best. However, I have to agree with ziemann on his points. I have owned 4 different 500s. I still have my original 2010 500 that I pre-seasoned. It is hands down the most reliable, easy to operate sled I have had from Cat in a long time. Finicky ??? Hardly.

Not a good trail sled right out of the box ?? About the only way I can agree with this statement is due to the shock calibration. But, as 500porsno states, the sled IS geared towards an aggressive trail rider. Hell, you are buying a race chassis sled here people.

Now, on to the problem the OP posted about....
A couple things come to mind. Air temp sensor is one of them. Was this "incident" after riding, then stopping for a bit, and then starting off again ? We had some "want to die" issue with 720s...they would start up fine, but when you went to drive away, the sled would die right off. This was after riding, then stopping and then heading off again. We ended up relocating the air sensor and that seemed to correct the problem. Seemed that when we stopped, the air in the air box would warm up while sitting from under hood temps. When we started up again, the ECU would recognize the warm air, lean the sled out for THAT temp, but when we'd push the throttle, cold air would then enter the motor... and voila ... lean condition.

Just a thought...........not being there to see what the actual condition is.
Thanks for posting the info. I was just searching for that exact same problem. I have a 12 500sp with D+D porting/head mod. It was kinda warm thiursday and a couple times after stopping then restarting to move the sled, it would bog and almost die unless you feathered the throttle a lot. But that's what I was thinking was the air temp sensor because once the airflow came back it ran perfect.
 

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Thanks for posting the info. I was just searching for that exact same problem. I have a 12 500sp with D+D porting/head mod. It was kinda warm thiursday and a couple times after stopping then restarting to move the sled, it would bog and almost die unless you feathered the throttle a lot. But that's what I was thinking was the air temp sensor because once the airflow came back it ran perfect.
yup...simple fix to an annoying problem
 

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Where did you relocate the air sensor too ? Pics ? More info please
My guess is anywhere you can mount it lower or more forward into the open air. Going to look at doing mine tomorrow, will let ya know what I find if Taperk600 or GregB doesn't respond first.
 

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Where did you relocate the air sensor too ? Pics ? More info please
Sorry I don't have a pic of where it was relocated. Basically removed it from the airbox, slid it towards the outside of the engine compartment where it could get fresh air easier, then heat taped it in place....leaving the tip exposed.
 

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2011 500 Sno Pro

I am having the same problem with my 2011 500. Mine will do it if it is cold. Took it to my local dealer and they told me that I needed a whole new ECU. There is no update for the 2011 sleds. If everyone else is getting by with the reflash why would I have to have a new ECU? I really don't trust this dealer. I only have 900 miles on the sled.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I am having the same problem with my 2011 500. Mine will do it if it is cold. Took it to my local dealer and they told me that I needed a whole new ECU. There is no update for the 2011 sleds. If everyone else is getting by with the reflash why would I have to have a new ECU? I really don't trust this dealer. I only have 900 miles on the sled.
How Ironic, i have 889 miles on mine, put 87 octane in mine but.. it got to warm and most of our snow melted so ill keep you updated if it fixes the problem or not...
 

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I know this is a older thread, I have a 2010 With a D&D 720 kit and I am having the same throttle issues. Was teh air sensor the fix? Any pic's or info on where to move it? I see above one guy just left it out in the open is that ok to do? Thanks
 

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Can I zip tie the sensor to something and just let it be out in the open? Is the sensor going to get messed up?
 

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Can I zip tie the sensor to something and just let it be out in the open? Is the sensor going to get messed up?
Pretty much what I did.
Remove sensor from it's location in the air box, heat tape over the hole where the sensor was, and zip tied the sensor wires in place to the spar that is right next to where you remove the sensor (if memory serves me right)
 
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