[FastRog]

Now with 670 miles the F-1000 is back at the dealer for the update on the brain box.

My dealer just called me with some interesting info. Apparently Cat held a meeting on all the comments their customers are having with these sleds not running to good on top end. They (Cat) are getting a consistent 115 to 118 mph on radar after some testing and a few adjustments. Just like some of you may be getting already.

#1. Apparently this update gives these machines a little more snap.
#2. Just found out that we are supposed to be running 87 octane fuel, not premium. Just like the Ski-doo motors were. Cat claims pipe is not getting hot enough. Hard to believe the pipe is not hot enough with all the side panels melting.
#3. Cat is very, very, strongly opinionated on the air intake mods and Y pipe mods but I write that off as what a manufacturer would have to say. Yhey are claiming a loss in HP.
#4. Coupler blocks as we know will help acceleration and they were brought up.
#5. 14 inch track with studs was brought up.
#6. Word has it they are looking into some different weights for the drive clutch much as the first year ZR-900 with act drive. (04)

So apparently if you aren't getting to 115-118 mph, then check with your dealer for some of these tips. For those of you that are getting these speeds already (remember these were on a radar gun supposedly so speedo speeds may differ) there may be even a few more mph-s waiting for you. Maybe the F-1000 will give the Mighty Mach a run across the lake someday! Hell the ZR-900 sure did. At this point I'm wishing I kept mine as I am waiting to see these speeds I keep hearing about. Cannot beat the ride of the F's though in the rough! Good luck 1000 owners!

 

[bissonpa--off]

I have just over 1000 miles on mine and it ran 118mph on gps(122onspeedometer) and it is bone stock with 204 studs and that was on ice only.

 

[ODS Dan]

our f1000 kits are ready to go.
Dan

 

[f1pete]

How did it do in rangely?

 

[3xJR]

I didn't know that there was a such thing as a slow F-1000?

 

[Krom]

If you have 500 miles on it do a D&D Y pipe and bulls eyes, all the customers that have reported back to me are claiming between 115 and 124 on the speedo. If you are real nervous you can get a $99 pressure regulator to richen the sled up.

 

[ODS Dan]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (f1pete @ Jan 22 2007, 07:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

How did it do in rangely?[/b]

We didn't enter the sleds... we were helping with tech kinda, and setup etc..

well long story short.. the sled prepped by the local dealer there ran 84-85 with ypipe, bullseyes etc.. not sure what else.. one of ours ran 89 with y-pipe, SW intake and our clutching so?? both trail studs, and not great traction of course.. not fast for "ice drags" but that is a comparison.. my sled was faster

 

[Roy T]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Krom @ Jan 22 2007, 08:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

If you have 500 miles on it do a D&D Y pipe and bulls eyes, all the customers that have reported back to me are claiming between 115 and 124 on the speedo. If you are real nervous you can get a $99 pressure regulator to richen the sled up.[/b]

Krom, how many of those customers are only running premium fuel with no adjustable fuel box, and how many – if ANY – have "lost" motors with those mods? – Roy

 

[FastRog]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (pbizz @ Jan 22 2007, 07:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

I have just over 1000 miles on mine and it ran 118mph on gps(122onspeedometer) and it is bone stock with 204 studs and that was on ice only.[/b]

Thanks for the inspiration. Look forward to seeing speeds like that soon!

 

[evenfasterthanrog]

Rog-the first thing I see is you are going to have to change your name! Run any Mach Z's yet?? I know a couple of guys who are looking to meet up with your F1000 and give it a good beating. I will have to borrow a 600HO and give you a run!

Sounds like the same problems the 05 Mach Z's had-some were fast and others were not.

 

[THINK SNOW]

F1000 WHIPED MACH Z AT 1/2 MILE THATS ALL WE COULD RUN!!!!!!!!!

 

[sksnopro]

where is the rest of the video?

 

[FastRog]

After a long dry cold spell with no snow and a busy work schedule it has been a while since the last post. The jury is finally in on the new F-1000. After about 700 miles and some fine tuning the top end is finally there. Rather than ramble on about what we did, and if anyone dosen't know these tips already, they are detailed perfectly in www.supertraxmag.com. My dealer and I followed all these tips except move the frame strap up a 1/2" like they talk about. Man what a difference. Looking forward to the rematch with my old Z-900. The only thing I did above and beyond the tips was I cut my coupler blocks down another 1/4 " to 3/8" on the lower side.
I like the sensation of ski's coming off the ground under acceleration and that sure does the job. Handling in the twisties and bumps still excellent. Also I am still not studded as I plan on the 14" track first. 6" single bar carbides worked better on my sled than the 6" duallys I had on it. I was even able to drop the preset air pressure in the 60Lb range and it still turns in nice. Just some thoughts and wish all the new Cat owners good luck!

 

[Roy T]

Thanks for the nice update FastRog! The tip of the day is, if and when you stud it, don't waste your time and money on anything that sticks up less than 5/8" over the lug. I started out with 204 Woody's 1.175" and later switched to Woody's 1.325" for 5/8" penetration over the stock 1" Hacksaw track – 30% more penetration and 30% more traction than the 1.175" studs = MUCH better performance and higher fun factor too! – Roy

 

[Muskegocat]

#4. Coupler blocks as we know will help acceleration and they were brought up.
What the answer to this ? in or out?

 

[FastRog]

#4. Coupler blocks as we know will help acceleration and they were brought up.
What the answer to this ? in or out?

Muskego Cat:

Believe we found a compromise with the coupler blocks if you are running a combination of lakes and trails/ditches. There are four markings on these blocks from 1 to 4, 1 being the least amount of coupling for more acceleration. I cut off another 1/4" to 3/8" on the #1 side of the block for even a little more room before the suspension couples. This was my compromise and it seems to be fine in the woods and will pull the skis on the lake.

For all out lake racing you may just want to remove them. Run your track at a lesser tension but not so much it ratchets. Add the idler wheels in the rear for a more free rolling track. It is a cheap bolt on and will help your slide wear. Your dealer should be able to help you out on this.

Have fun, good luck, Fast Rog