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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a pretty easy mod to do and will cost you a few hours work and less then 10 bucks from a hardware store.

When I completed the mod, I lost a tiny bit of top end, but it added so much pull to the bottom I literally could not believe it.
From just off idle to almost WOT it flat rips.

What you need.
Clutch tool, you can buy one for 70 bucks or you can make one for 7

(thanks to Sanny for this)
1------2' long, 1/2" threaded rod
2------1/2" washers
2------1/2" nuts
1------large washer or other metal piece to hold tool together (see pics)
1------exhaust adapter (I used 2 1/4" to 2 1/2")

[attachment=75610:clutch_tool.jpg]

1 good set of large ring pliers (angled kind work best, I used straight)
Impact wrench
1 1/4 socket (had one lying around)
1 7/16 socket (20 bucks at sears, 6 bucks at autozone)
1 1/2 to 3/4 adapter for the impact wrench.... (I was only able to find the 1 7/16 socket in a 3/4 drive)

Dremel the exhaust adapter on the bottom to allow access for ring pliers (see pics)

I drilled a hole in my workbench to help hold the whole mess in place while I worked.


First you need to remove the left side foot well, and engine cover to get at the star-headed screws that hold the clutch cover on.

Once you remove the footwell, you should be able to easily get all of the screws out of the cover with no problems. Take note of the longer screws, they need to go back in the same location when you reassemble.

Once you have all of the screws off you should be able to coax the clutch cover out of the way by holding down the rear brake pedal. Be cautious to avoid damaging your clutch cover gasket.

With the gasket and the cover out of the way you should have clear access to the secondary on the left and the primary on the right.

Simply hold the plates with one hand while you use the impact wrench to remove both retaining nuts. The 1 7/16ths is on the secondary the 1 1/4 is on the primary both are normal thread.

When you pull off the primary you will only get the outer plate assembly with the rollers and helix. The inner primary stays on.
Now would be a great time to replace your rollers (see pic)
[attachment=75612:primary.jpg]
When you pull your belt, check for wear... You want clean edges, no rolls, round spots, frays, burns, or the like.

When you pull the secondary off, it will come in one piece, both plates, the helix, and the spring.

Take the secondary over to a workbench and insert one end of your clutch tool through the secondary with the exhaust adapter on the top of the helix. Be sure to turn the adapter so the open end of the retaining ring is easily accessible. Using two wrenches compress the clutch tool until the retaining ring rises just off of the top of the helix (1/8th of an inch)
[attachment=75611:clutch.jpg]
Using your ring pliers, remove the retaining clip. This is a little problematic because the retaining ring is heavy duty. Keep trying, I used a small flat-head screwdriver to help.

Once you get the retaining clip out, use a magic marker and mark the location of the helix on the upper plate, you want the "fingers" on the helix to line back up to the same spot later. Now use your wrenches to open the tool slowly. Watch carefully here because while I did this my helix stuck on my shaft. If your spring doesn't press your helix up (for a total of about 10 inches) it may need some coaxing...

Following Sanny's advise I GENTLY tapped the top sides of the helix all the way around, and within 30 seconds she popped right off.

Once the helix releases the shaft, back off the tool until the spring is completely relaxed.
Now you should be able to look at the top of the helix and see four holes numbered 1 through 4. Lift the helix and turn it counter clockwise 90 degrees.

Now call your buddy/wife/kid for help re-compressing the spring.

Once you get a partner tighten the nuts until the helix fingers are just above the rubber stops on the upper plate. You should notice that the helix is not aligned with the marks you made earlier. I held the plates with one hand and the helix with a strap wrench and had my son make the last few turns with the wrench once I had the helix lined up with my marks.... You should notice that you are pre-loading the spring so it will apply more clockwise pressure against the rubber stops. This will keep the secondary in a "lower gear" while you are riding.

Continue to tighten the nuts until the shaft is far enough through the helix to re-insert the retaining clip. Don't forget the key between the shaft and the plate, if it doesn't line up, grab the bottom plate and turn it until you can insert the key. You should notice that there is a "seat" for the clip, once you have the key on the shaft, re-insert the retaining clip and remove your clutch tool.

Re-install the secondary into the transmission. Helix goes in. Make sure your shims are still in place. (they were behind the secondary)

Take one of the screws from the cover and insert it into the threaded hole near the middle of the outside of your secondary, this will cause the secondary to spread and allow you to drop your belt into place. Once your belt is in there, re-install your outer primary plate. Tighten both nuts to spec on the shafts...

Now slowly remove the screw from your secondary while rolling the plates to allow the belt to rise into place.

Double check your work, Make sure your belt is on right, reinstall your cover gasket, and cover. Be sure to place the long screws back where they belong.

Re-assemble your body panels, go ride, then come back here to tell us all how sweet it is.

If anyone has better pics or point to clarify, please chime in. If you have questions I would be glad to help...
R/
Professor :beer_cheers:
 

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Where were you with this about a week ago???!!!! I did mine kinda flyin blind! But had no trouble with it as it's really easy. Except I used a press instead of the home brewed shop tool.

Good write up though!!
 

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Thats just what I needed also, thanks for the write up it will help a lot. So everyone is putting it in position 4 right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
#4 is right, You'll see when you get it apart.... I can't see why they even have four holes because two and three look like they would cause serious problems if it worked at all.
 

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Does this mod change your engaugement rpm? All I'm lookin for is more low end grunt not to raise the rpm when the clutch catches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (zack2746 @ Sep 12 2007, 01:04 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Does this mod change your engaugement rpm? All I'm lookin for is more low end grunt not to raise the rpm when the clutch catches.[/b]
No, it holds it in low "gear" through a higher RPM so you accelerate faster + harder. More bottom, less top.
 

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I did the same thing to the Prowler back in March. It runs so much better and backshifts alot quicker also.

One thing to make sure to do is use a drop of red loctite on the primary & secondayr shaft threads befors installing the nut. Its a TSB from Cat to make sure of no nuts coming loose. Heard of a guy or 2 with this and it made an awful mess of things.
 

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Thanks for the write up did the mod tonight
love how fast it snaps up to speed

Hardest thing about doing the mod was getting the footwell back in place
 

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no this mod will not work on the v2.

To do this to a v2 you will have to change the springs

you will have to install a stronger primary and secondary spring

check with the v2 mods pinned topic and it will tell you more.

I had a v2 before my h1 and you get the same results, just a different way to do it
 

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just saw this mod. great write up! i will do this in the next few days and chime in.

im assuming this changes the load in low and in high "gear" ?
 

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So, this will help with spinning larger tires? I'm guessing that it is better than buying a clutch kit, b/c it's free, right? Does it perform the same as a clutch kit?
Great write up!!!!
 

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I just finished this mod, and will all the help here it was easy for me to do. And I don't have a lot of engine/transmission experience. Thanks guys!

Now for some feedback. This mod is insane for the little time and zero cost it makes a huge difference with the gearing. I only put about 3 miles on it today but I can easily lift the front tires off the ground. This was with the roughly 40 pound box and the winch on the front with the XTRs. Also the torque to climb hills was amazing. It almost feels like high is geared like low used to be and low is insane. I never take the ATV over 40-45 anyways for the riding I do so top end wasn't a factor.

I will post pics as soon as I get done downloading them.
 

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Yes its a very good mod, and the best part it cost allmost nothing to do, think i spent like $3.00 on the parts to make the compresser which i will use more then once anyway.. :D
 

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ok im deffinately doin it soon...
if i ever get time to
 
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