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Discussion Starter #1
I was working on my suspension and our ZL has more snap to it (i mean rebounds much snappier) but thats because her arm is more angled towards the front of the sled ( I think) and mine where it connects in front of the rear wheels theres that arm that attaches to a lever mines starting at straight up and down and hits the blocks (which the zl does not have) with in 3 inches of travel my sled stands at 15.5 inches noone on it and i measure from where the bumper begins on the running boards. anyways u can see what arm im talking about here in the picture

So where i have my bolts located for the top and the bottom are they right do i remove the blocks???? im so confused I thought the cce was suppose to be a sled with good travel but can jump ..... please explain and tell me where i went wrong ask me for more pictures if you need on where shocks are located in there holes anything to understand this sled....

EDITED : Look at the angle of my arm its already facing back is if the sled was compressing.... that dosent seem right to me at all could i see some ZR pics of your guyses rear suspension...
 

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A quick observation: the first and third pictures of the ZR appear correct. THe middle picture of the ZL show the rear arm hole placement incorrect.

First- the stock holes are two back from the front- top and bottom. As a means of adjustment both bolts can be moved forward (softer) or backward (stiffer.) Moving both back one hole is said to be significantly stiffer. I have never tried it. Any adjustment should be made by moving both bolts back or forward the same number of holes. in the pic of the ZL the top bolt is moved back one hole and the bottom is back two holes from stock. I don't know of any advantage/disadvantage but that is definitely not the procedure listed in my manuals.

I have always been of the understanding that proper rear setup should be accomplished with stiffer or softer springs while leaving the rear arm in the stock location. Maybe someone who has moved these can offer input.

To address the blocks on the ZR- those blocks limit the rear arm's movement backward coupling the rear to the front of the skid. Lots of guys take those out. The coupling limits weight transfer. If you remove them you will most likely have to tighten the front limit straps a bit to keep the front end down. Just removing them turned mine into a wheelie machine..... which is cool except for when you want to turn. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Okay ty but another question when i pull up on my sled it has play in it like theres no tension pushing the tunnel up or down its like netrual "sags" if you will about a inch i had my clicker shock adjusted turned down as far as it would go IT MADE IT REALLY BAd then i turned my clicker shock most of the way out it took out that "sag netrual play in the rear suspension" which like 1 inch of play and thats where it is atm but when the clicker shock is turned down its like 3 inches of play.

the ZL HAS SPRING to it like it snaps back up also we adjusted mine to make the arm lik ein the pictures look like the zl one time and i forget how it responded but please i need more info on a setup pics would be the world as well thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
please help tomarow gonna work on it some more if u see anything else wrong??? so for sure i can remove the blocks and tighten the limiter straps?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (joezr2 @ Nov 14 2009, 07:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
A quick observation: the first and third pictures of the ZR appear correct. THe middle picture of the ZL show the rear arm hole placement incorrect.

First- the stock holes are two back from the front- top and bottom. As a means of adjustment both bolts can be moved forward (softer) or backward (stiffer.) Moving both back one hole is said to be significantly stiffer. I have never tried it. Any adjustment should be made by moving both bolts back or forward the same number of holes. in the pic of the ZL the top bolt is moved back one hole and the bottom is back two holes from stock. I don't know of any advantage/disadvantage but that is definitely not the procedure listed in my manuals.

I have always been of the understanding that proper rear setup should be accomplished with stiffer or softer springs while leaving the rear arm in the stock location. Maybe someone who has moved these can offer input.

To address the blocks on the ZR- those blocks limit the rear arm's movement backward coupling the rear to the front of the skid. Lots of guys take those out. The coupling limits weight transfer. If you remove them you will most likely have to tighten the front limit straps a bit to keep the front end down. Just removing them turned mine into a wheelie machine..... which is cool except for when you want to turn. lol[/b]
hey,
can you get a pic of this block you talking about, i must not be following right. my suspension is acting up as well.
 

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i have personally messed with my arms also and notice some stiffness as i moved them back but when i did not have them right and i would land real hard off a jump or what not my susupension would colapse right flat and would have to pick the back of the sled back up to make it sit right. weird as hell. so if you get that set off wrong then u will know it. so far have not noticed any side effects other than that so i adjusted my bolts a little more forward and have not had the problem since.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well when i was messing with my suspension id idnt have my rear shock hooked up and luckly i only bent near the knuckle it will survive this winter and its impossible for it to colapse to the the bend and if anyone was wondering about mesing with your rear shocks its rllly not that bad removing them without pulling the skid got pretty good at it after 4 times lol. But does anyone here have pics of there suspension bolt location ect. hell and even where the shock is mounting with those support arms cause theres 3 holes there as well near the shock.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What should my sled height be at for a zr 600 cce 2002 right now like right at the begining of my rear bumper it makes a nice point its at i belive 15.5 " im lost where arctic cat gets there travel numbers.....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Suspension Front: AWS V double wishbone A-arms with Arctic Cat gas (IFP) shocks, and adj. preload springs, sway bar, 9.2" travel
Rear: FasTrack, Long-travel slide-rail, adj. torsion springs, Arctic Cat gas (IFP) shocks, travel 13.5"

I dont even get close with these blocks but its suppose to be all stock so how was arctic cat getting those numbers with blocks ????
 

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Those numbers represent the total distance moved by the rear axle NOT the rear bumper. The coupling blocks force both rear shock to work together so, it's going to be more difficult to fully compress the suspension as it should be. Can you imagine the forces acting on the rear suspension during a jump. With a 200 pound rider on a big enough jump there could easily be over 600 pounds of force trying to compress the shocks. That's why you can't compress it fully. If you're really that curious take off the springs and see how far it moves.
Now back to your sleds. Adjust your rear arm properly like joezr2 said. The ZL probably seems like it springs up faster because the shocks are shot and not controlling the spring's rebound. As far as adjusting the clickers and getting "play", adjusting the clicker on a "clicker shock" basically changes the valving internally and should have no effect on the shock length. If you're talking about the handlebar mounted adjuster, that will add or remove oil from the front skid shock only which helps change weight transfer on the fly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
no there is sag in mine u have to pull up on my sled 2-3 inches to get it to extend back to full otherwise its like netrual u can push it up and down like nothing and it dosent rebound fully
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Any suggestions on why its doing its really starting to get on my nerves i know thats not how a sled is suppose to be and i put over 1000 dollars into this summer id like to have next to perfect....
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CannibalCat @ Nov 14 2009, 10:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
hey,
can you get a pic of this block you talking about, i must not be following right. my suspension is acting up as well.[/b]

The coupling blocks? Asaracing's first and last pics show the blocks. Right behind the rear arm. They are the black, square things inside the rails.



asaracing- I'm not sure what you are asking for. Your posts are kinda hard to read. Did you adjust the rear arm into the proper position? As scrat said, if the shock is worn out it will not properly control the rebound and will bounch back as you stated. The rearmost shock can be replaced with a rebuildable fox shock. (We bought one last year for $89 brand new.) THe front, skid shock is a little more complicated. The rear springs may need replaced too. We may be able to help with choosing a spring.
 

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The ZL set up needs some correction. The cross shaft in front of the rear arm drop link needs to be one hole in front of the drop link, not two like it shows in that picture. You can overstress the suspension running it like that. You will probably loose suspension travel moving the cross shaft (coupling shaft) back, so probably best to move the rear arm forward. Get stiffer springs if you want/need a stiffer ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok sry for the mis communication

FACTS

*The black couplers I want to remove for more suspension i DONT run studs so i dont think it will even get close to pulling off the ground should i do that? Will this cause it to bottom out and ruin something?
*ALL shocks just got rebuilt only possible explination for the rear is that they didnt do the rear right the front shocks along with the clicker are returning very nice.... I did not test the rear but if that is not redone right that will cause my sled not to rebound fully and have "sag"?
*I will return the ZLs to stock holes and thought that it might be hard on the suspension but boy would that be sweet to run it like this we have it turned down to lowest cam settings for the sister who ways 120 pounds u just have to give it a lil bounce and she goes down
 

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Discussion Starter #16
UPDATE

I adjusted my clicker all the way out (up) made my suspension stiffer in the rear now the rear shock is also a clicker just not on the fly numbers 1-8 what is the stiffest to softest everything seems to be ok now sry about the confusing posts and are ZL we decided to leave due to it never locks and the only way it locks is if you are jumping which my 17 year old sister dosent do rofl and takes only about 60 pounds or a tiny little bounce to break it lose will see how it rides last year it was like that ALL year no problems...

anyways please give me some info on the rear shock about those numbers 1-8

thanks again
 
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