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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, new to the forum. Been looking and looking for some answers for a few weeks, and no luck. I have a 10 mp 700h1. I recently had to rebuild the rear diff as the ring gear teeth started chipping away. The housing is still good. Bought new ring and pinion gears and everything else. I have the book for it and reassembled the diff per book. Book said to use the same shims if re-using housing, which I am. I get the whole thing back together and in the bike. Get everything else together and start it up and put it in gear and it goes no where. Driveshaft spins but tires wont. I can put it in 4wd and it will move all 4 wheels. If I drive around in 4wd and shift back to 2wd it will keep going till I stop. If I take off again in 2wd wont move. All this happens in reverse and forward. Any advice here? Local arctic cat shop isnt much help. They replaced pinion gear for me 3 weeks ago and now wont answer my calls.
 

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you rebuilt the diff a few weeks ago full ring and pinion and the shop replaced the pinion as well a few weeks ago? I would think your pinion mesh is way out and would not surprise me it it took out a tooth. Probably why it wont move in 2wd as it sitting on that missing tooth. Did you check the mesh pattern before you put it back in the machine? Always need to check before final assembly. If it was previously chipping teeth then something caused that and could have been out from factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I ordered everything myself and had the shop install the pinion for me since it requires that special tool for the nut. I checked the meshing of the gears together on the bench and were fine. The yolk would spin the ring gear on the bench just fine. What sets the ring gear forward or backwards? The only shims I saw were for the left and right movement.
 

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Thats what sets your movement.. adding shims to one side will move the ring gear closer to pinion. I just quickly looked at service manual and their is a specific backlash you are suppose to hit and then set the endplay.. It mentions no shims for the pinion. You may need to find a old axle stub and make your own tool for setting backlash..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will check that out again. I take it thinner shims closest to pinion makes it closer to pinion? My first ATV rear end I've built myself.
 

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Did you download the manual from country cat? It gives pretty detailed instructions as well as ship thicknesses.. You are going to need a dial indicator to do it properly. Its not something you can really do by feel unless you have done a few diffs before..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just got lucky with this buy. Other than this one small set back. The guy was a big fan of cats and had several at one time. I have all sorts of service parts and what nots because he just felt like buying parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I got around to getting the rear diff out and apart again. Reshimmed everything and still no luck. So I dropped by the local dealer with the diff to see if maybe they could figure it out. Well they did. I need a new driveshaft gear assembly that connects to the pinion gear. The splines are stripped. Dont know how I missed it but oh well.
361297
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok guys got an update for you. I couldn't find a correct used rear diff input shaft and I'm not dropping $750 for bits and pieces of the rear differential to get one piece. So I replaced the seal and bearing in the diff nose. I ground down the busted input shaft splines and the clutch basket. Installed them in the nose and welded them together. Got it all installed and it runs great now. No more slipping diff. Not the prettiest welds but itll hold and no one will see it.
361439
 
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